Tim
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,340
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Jun 18, 2011 10:22:28 GMT
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Hey all Got a set of BMW bottletops for my polo. The original paint was damaged and partially sanded, so after a (frankly awful) attempt at prepping and painting in my garden They were a right mess, so have had them blasted by a local firm, which has left them somewhat pitted, and still hasn't removed all of whatever it is BMW paint the bloody things with: Now my original plan was to get them powder-coated gunmetal/anthracite. However, i'm assuming i'll have to get ALL of the old paint off to allow this to work - which i'm not prepared to spend ages doing as. I've got to much to do without endless sanding and spraying (i hate sanding with a passion) - i'd rather just thrown them to a coaters and have done with it I just want a tidy finish really, and i'd rather them not be matt as I don't really like it. Cheers! Tim
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Jun 18, 2011 10:42:00 GMT
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get them painted by a bodyshop instead! bodyshop paint is pretty tough compared with rattle can paint, so shouldnt chip as easy. powdercoat, whilst tough, has its pitfalls, damage the coating to the point that water can get under it and it will peel very quickly. at least with paint you can carry out spot repairs if required.
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Jun 18, 2011 10:58:39 GMT
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Now that they've been blasted to kingdom-come, Nitro-Mors will make very, very short work of any remaining paint. Seriously, get your Marigolds on and give them a good pasting. The last of it should fall off really easily. I've refurbed wheels similar to this back to bare metal using Nitro-Mors and wire wool before and it's an effective method if you hate sanding.
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Tim
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,340
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Jun 18, 2011 11:04:40 GMT
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Cheers for advice. Will find a local bodyshop
Pictures click to biggerify BTW - forgot to add that!
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Jun 18, 2011 15:36:58 GMT
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second for getting them 2packed (and I don't mean shot, then releasing posthumas albums every 2 years). Just get them primed using proper etch primer
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Jun 18, 2011 19:49:10 GMT
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Very fiddly to get them perfect due to the pitting. You would have to etch prime them, high build prime them, then rub them down.. The only way to get them looking smooth and mint if you want to paint them. Expect to pay between £200 and £300 from a bodyshop to get this done, including new paint.
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1989 Mini MG 1275 ~ 1987 VW Polo ~ 1989 Citroen 2CV ~ 1998 VW T4 ~ 2006 Volvo XC70
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bmw156
Part of things
Posts: 796
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2nd for high build primer, thats whats left on your wheels as car manufactured use an incredibly hard primer,
i put an alloy of mine in a tank of acid at work to see if it would strip it. It stripped all the paint off and left most of the high build primer on there. so also as mentioned yours have been blasted to hell lol.
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Jun 20, 2011 16:25:45 GMT
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Firstly i take the wheels to somewhere that knows what they're doing, unless you specifically asked them to 'just grit blast them' then theyve done a pretty curse word job. We do a lot of wheels at one of our other sites, and i know everyone that brings them in is asked what they want to do with them, if they're being painted, then they get blasted to remove the paint, then beaded to flatten the roughness of the gritting and prepping for whatever is next, be it paint or powdercoat.
Regarding paint v powdercoat, you pays your money, you makes your choice, Propperly applied, paint will be far superior, but will cost a LOT more (think £250 ish, maybe more for those...) If you're not that worried, then get them powdercoated, a lot cheaper (£60-100ish) but as has already been mentioned, when they get damaged, the powder will potentially start to lift.....
Generally speaking, if youre ikely to keep the wheels for 5 years, then paint them. If not then I would (and do) powder coat them.
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Current fleet: '58 A35 (half mine) '67 11 window splitscreen vw (half mine) '77 mini 1000 (not quite 1000 any more!!) '86 Armstrong MT500 '89 XR4X4 '94 Corrado VR6 Some sort of sevenesque kit car (no age yet!!) '01 Mondeo estate 2.0 (engine eventually destined for kit car!) - scrapped, engine only left! '98 E300 estate, rusty but seemingly reliable, fast-ish tat hauler. eventual engine donor A35 van, or whats left of it after it lived in a field for many years
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Tim
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,340
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Jun 21, 2011 10:20:59 GMT
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To be fair, they were done as a favour, and were in a right mess before hand anyway, with lots of corrosion impregnated with dirt and brake dust. I'm not worried.
Found pockets of metal grit under the remaining primer, so i'm guessing thats what they used :-)
Ok cool thanks all. Always good to get peoples thoughts.
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Jun 21, 2011 19:08:39 GMT
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Could you maybe remove the rest of the primer with nitromors the get the beaded as sasquar describes doing?
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Jun 21, 2011 20:53:39 GMT
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Beading will get rid of a little bit of paint if that's all that's left, and will prep them nicely for whatever you decide to do with the finish.
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Current fleet: '58 A35 (half mine) '67 11 window splitscreen vw (half mine) '77 mini 1000 (not quite 1000 any more!!) '86 Armstrong MT500 '89 XR4X4 '94 Corrado VR6 Some sort of sevenesque kit car (no age yet!!) '01 Mondeo estate 2.0 (engine eventually destined for kit car!) - scrapped, engine only left! '98 E300 estate, rusty but seemingly reliable, fast-ish tat hauler. eventual engine donor A35 van, or whats left of it after it lived in a field for many years
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barty
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,088
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Jun 22, 2011 15:47:20 GMT
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Use hammerite otherwise it will cost you more than the wheels are worth, i would use the hammerite special metal primer first than add a coat or two of your choice of colour...costs around £20-£30 gotta be better than the £250-£300 for a refurb, if your going to pay that much i would scap them and look at buying a new set
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Tim
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,340
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Jun 23, 2011 21:16:41 GMT
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Yeah, i'm not thowing that sort of money at some old wheels
I may be able to get them coated for the price of a pint, but if not i'll homebrew paint them :-)
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