|
|
Jun 14, 2011 20:51:42 GMT
|
Simple question, but whats the answer. Powder coating, some suspension parts, under bonnet parts but mainly some motorcycle parts. Is it worth giving powder coated parts an additional coat of clear 2k lacquer to polish up. Are there different 'grades' of powder coating I once tried to buff up powder coating and it wasn't successful. Any advice appreciated A poor Pic of my next project as payment KR
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
You could scuff the powder and clear over it, proper 2k (as in isocyanate hardener etc) would give it a shine and be pretty durable. Probably won't last too long with stone chips and suchlike though. I think there's powder that's just laid straight on, and there's a 2-stage one with primer/epoxy powder on a blasted surface, followed by colour powder. But I'm not 100% sure on this, a coater would be worth asking.
|
|
'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
|
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 16:18:30 GMT
|
Metal Magic (Barnsley) powder coat a lot of wheels and bike stuff - they did the wheels on my old lupo and the powder coat finish (anthracite) was absolutely flawless and had a really deep shine. just as good as any normal car paint.
I'm not sure how they achieved it, but in picking the colour I did stress that I didn't want a painted finish, for durability. A lot of the finishes such as "high power silver" which is like a fake chrome are just sprayed over a base of black powder coat and lacquered with 2k, so it is possible.
|
|
Last Edit: Jun 15, 2011 16:20:36 GMT by cobblers
|
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 19:43:55 GMT
|
Thanks for your time gents, i'll check with the coaters but its one of those jobs you don't how good till its done, supose trust is the word.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 16, 2011 10:13:03 GMT
|
The range of finishes and effects from powder seems to grow by the day so really you need to speak to someone who does it and does it well.
And report back here...
and BTW your Merc is a beauty.
|
|
1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
|
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2011 12:13:53 GMT
|
I had the intake manifold coated in black gloss by the guy who did the engine frames for our aircraft. I spent a bit of time with him and it turned out they were working with a coatings company and had secured a deal with one of the north sea oil rig builders. I had him use that on it as it had a spec above and beyond what the engine could create, save catching on fire. The coating he put on went on hot and now looks like shiny neoprene or the kind of finish you get on uh, intimate rubber adult novelties. Shiny but not a deep shine, the surface is doing the reflecting. I think they had a few colours, mostly bright primary (red, yellow). He said that it was hard to add a matting agent as it messed with the compound and made the surface finish less durable. A little bit of a buff with some car wax and this was shiny and stayed shiny. Not sure if the bits you have are coated already but what you decide to get put on in the first place makes a big difference. You'll have to ask Stefan how it's doing, but so far it's been covered in petrol, grease and been heated and cooled and last time I checked it still looked as good as new, albeit dusty. I'd have to dig their name out of the phone book if you want to give them a call. They're a bit of a ways away from you outside Bristol but the work they did for us was fantastic and not too expensive. He has an oven and booth you'd be able to coat a Mini in... Edit for picture of offending item --Phil
|
|
Last Edit: Jun 17, 2011 12:17:03 GMT by PhilA
|
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2011 19:52:41 GMT
|
Run of the mill powdercoat isn't too clever for any components that will get abuse, like suspension components. The reason being, powder coat is overall tougher than paint, but if it chips it flakes quite quickly, and moisture can get underneath more easily than painted surfaces, which of course causes corrosion or rust. For chassis and susp'components, a good rust killing primer like POR15 is best, followed by proper chassis black.
|
|
1989 Mini MG 1275 ~ 1987 VW Polo ~ 1989 Citroen 2CV ~ 1998 VW T4 ~ 2006 Volvo XC70
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
Powder CoatingDez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
|
Jun 17, 2011 20:03:25 GMT
|
Run of the mill powdercoat isn't too clever for any components that will get abuse, like suspension components. The reason being, powder coat is overall tougher than paint, but if it chips it flakes quite quickly, and moisture can get underneath more easily than painted surfaces, which of course causes corrosion or rust. For chassis and susp'components, a good rust killing primer like POR15 is best, followed by proper chassis black. this man is correct. for 99% of car parts, paint is a much better finish than powder coat- especially stuff like wheels and suspension components. aluminium is particularly prone to water getting into chips and lifting the whole surface off, leaving white corrosion underneath, id never get anything made of aluminium powercoated.
|
|
Last Edit: Jun 17, 2011 20:08:36 GMT by Dez
|
|
|
|
Jun 18, 2011 22:46:13 GMT
|
some good info coming out here, Thanks All.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 19, 2011 13:11:48 GMT
|
As said, chipable stuff is best painted but powder coat can be used to great effect in interiors, engine bays, ICE installs, etc.
Also it seems to work better on springs than paint does (IME)
I wouldn't say it has no place in a car - selective use
|
|
1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
|
|