Fed up :( Superminx running probs Now FIXED!!!!!!

nah no rev counter. it was running fairly jumpy when it started the first time.

What condition is the ignition system in? If you've got fuel at the carb then I'd look at ignition - did you check that the fuel pump is delivering fuel OK?

Check the points. Mine used to randomly adjust themselves.

Tongue-in-cheek repair- grab a flatblade screwdriver- with the ignition off lift off the dizzy cap, rotate the engine by pulling it round on the fanbelt until the cam is pushing against the points at its maximum. Slacken the points off then adjust the chunkier screw so that the points juuuust grab a thin piece of cardboard, like a cigarette packet, but you can pull it out without it tearing. Tighten up the points, stick the cap back on and crank it over.

If that doesn't work then the condenser may be bad, if you've never changed it, get a new one. They are notorious failures.

If that gets it coughing and spluttering on the starter, the timing may just be way off. Easiest way to check is with a strobe lamp but you can set the static timing other ways.

That's what used to cause mine not to start, at least. Yours has a Zenith carb on it?

--Phil

You got muck in it somewhere. I agree with Bazzateer.

gonna continue the muck hunt later on. any tips.
if there is something between the tank and pump, how do I clear that, take it off and let it flow into a bucket for a bit?

Could use a "turkey baster" or battery acid transfer thing, for the line from before pump to tank. I used one of these when * was blocking the pickup in the tank. Could prob have just blown with Mk.1 Human Mouth, but didn't fancy the taste of fuel.

If it is that, best take out the tank and clean it at the least. Possibly resin-seal it, if there's rust. Sudden cut-outs can cause rapid sense of humour failure.

The float valve is No. 10 in that diagram. However, read below before ripping the carb to bits...

No, 34 is the idle volume screw - aka mixture screw. All the way out is "rich as feck". What colour are the plugs?

If the plugs are black and sooty then screw that screw all the way in, just far enough to seat it - don't put any force on it to tighten it or you'll damage the taper seat - and 1.5 to 2 turns back out. That should get it running anyway.

Double-check the ignition timing and start the engine. Let it warm up fully and turn the choke off. See if the idle speed is about right - it doesn't need to be precise, but if it's obiously too fast turn screw No. 44 anti clockwise until it's about right.

Then adjust the mixture screw. It's not easy to do initially - until you know what you're listening for. Basically screw it out until the engine starts to sound rough, and then turn it back in until the engine souds smooth again.

Given that that screw is almost all the way out the engine might be running richer and richer until it stops - it can be hard (if not impossible) to tell in real life sometimes, let alone through computer speakers. Thinking about it, running better when cold is often a sign of running rich...

Finally - the choke flap is designed to move by itself. When you operate the choke a spring (No. 6) pulls the flap shut. When you rev the engine the increased amount of air needed by the engine pulls it at least partially open. If it didn't move the engine would just pull huge amount of fuel through instead. When the engine's cold the throttle needs to be held open a bit as well - that's what rod 24 and lever 25 do.

The choke cable should be attached to lever No. 20 - and should only move when you adjust the choke control on the dashboard.

Yes yes yes, NOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!! 5 mins running , slightly fast idle but all good. Then it warmed up and burbled to a halt.
waiting for it to cool down, but it was much better than it was.

what could be causing the cut out when warm? also seemed to be a lot of vapour/smoke coming out of the carb after it cut out, also a small ammount coming out of the fuel filler.

plugs were fairly black, now cleaned and firing ok. sign of rich running.

might just take it to the local garage, but then I won't learn unless they let me stay and watch. wonder if they'l let me?

if not anyone in Ipswich/Woodridge able to offer a hand?