OK, don't prime rubber. mask it off!
1 rattle can of plastic primer should do all your plastic bits.
You'll want a good 2 litres or so of barcoat. You apply it unmixed (straight from the can) and only one coat. You need to get full coverage in one go. Its gloopy stuff so it doesn't run. don't use heavy coast but do overlap your passes with the gun. this will give you the coverage you need without any mishaps. Follow the instructions on the can basically.
They recommend a coat of spray putty after barcoat but thats becoase the same company makes the putty. I've gone on with high build on barcoat and its been fine. 3 coats should be fine (I assume you are using celly high build?) depending on how it goes on a 4th coat may be needed after you have taken out any runs or if you have any thin spots. With 2K you can get away with 2 coats of high build, maybe three if you have any rub through. For celly high build I have used U-Pol's own brand with good results. Comes in a 5 litre tin so buy 5 litres.
For a standard black I would recommend you go direct gloss not clear-on-base. scuffs/marks in the clear coat will be more noticable on a black finish.
You want to put about 5 or 6 coats on fairly lightly annd increase the solvent in the last couple of coats. This makes it easier to polish up, but it does make it more likely to run or sag... Your choice. I'd rather spend an extra bit of effort flating and polishing than deal with runs so I'd recommend not going to thin. One guy I know sprays the last coat of celly and its alomst like tinted thinners its so "wet". But he hardly needs to flat & polish at all... We'll call that an "advanced technique".
I would not spray the colour the same day as the primer. Too many coats at once and you will get trapped solvent. Also you need to let the primer cure overnight really for the best results when you sand it down.
I'd also make sure you let everything flash off it you go for a full 6 coats of celly. build it up slowly. I'd also let it rest briefly between the 3rd and 4th coats. nice warm day the solvents should be evaporating pretty nicely but worth making sure.
Guestimating the size of your car you'll want best part of 5 litres of black celly. You hopefully will find that a 5 litre tin of it is cheaper.
I would get 5 litres of standard thinners (for primer and cleaning guns etc.) and 5 litres of high gloss thinners. You can use standard thinners but the high gloss has a lot of the yellow tint distilled out of it so it gives a clearer shine. Thinners are cheap anyway.
I'd also get a few paint strainers and a few mixing cups. Makes life easier. You'll also need some tacky dusters, some panel wipe (again only comes in 5L tins) and a blow gun if you don't have one. £3 from Machine Mart if you don't.
I am happy for other members to disgree with this, as everyone has their own techniques, but this is what works for me...
1. gently sand the car to about a P180 - P240
2. blow all the sanding dust out of all the nooks and crannies with the blow gun.
3 wipe over with tacky dusters to get all the dust off
4. wipe the car over with panel wipe to degrease it.
5. apply Barcoat.
cup of tea - probably now's the time to use the plastic primer...
6. apply 3 coats celly highbuild.
ideally leavee it overnight.
7. rub down primer with about a P400. If you have roughness go for a P320 first then fiish with P400. With celly I wouldn't go much over a P400 to ensure the top coat keys right, but some people recommend going to P600.
8. use blow gun to get dust out of corners etc. usually drip rails etc.
9. tacky duster to lift last bits of dust.
10. check none of your masking has lifted.
11. apply 3 coats of black celly, check how its covering and building up. You don't want it "thick" but you want enough on there for you to polish it back hard.
12. Short rest to allow evaporation. cuppa?
13. Apply another 2-3 coats of black celly.
14. wait for paint to be
almost dry.
15. remove masking - make sure you pull away from the painted surface. if you wait for the paint to fully dry before removing the masking you get a harder line, if the paint is still soft when you de-mask you get a smoother line as the paint "heals" where you pulll the paper off. Be very careful not to get dust or fingermarks on the paint doing this.
16. leave it about a week. Celly takes ages to cure properly, one reason its no longer used in professional body shops.
17. assess your paint finish. You may be able to do everything wth P1500 or you may need to step down to P1200 first, then finish with P1500. Go gently. Your paint is still new and will not be at full cure until about another 2-3 weeks!
18. I've not used Farecla G3 Advanced on celly. I've used it on 1K and it works well. Farecla G7 is designed to work with celly paint... Its also designed to be used by hand whereas G3 is designed to be used with a machine in the liquid form and by hand in the paste form. have a look on
www.farecla.com and see what you think suits best. Or ask in your paint supplier for advice on G3 on celly compatibility.
19. Use something like 3M Imperial Handglaze or a comparible Farecla product as you must not wax fresh celly paint (for best results give it 90 days using hand glaze only, then move to a wax)
20. Celly paint always dulls off a few days after the first polish. It will probably continue to do so a buit for the first 30 days after spraying whhile the last of the solvent evaporates (another reason it was unpopular in the industry) so about a month after painting give it another good compounding and you should get (and keep) a nice deep lustre.
Good luck.