Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Pile of progress. As expected lots of stone chips, fragile paint, etc. that needed quite a bit of work to get sanded smooth. They show up on the photos as bare metal spots. All the trim holes are now welded up and 3/4 of the car outer body is sanded smooth. This is what they look like after sanding with my DA. I'll skim fill the trim holes when I'm done with the dents: Ran out of welding gas to weld up these and a few other small holes. I'll use some body filler to hide the seam that was previously hidden by some trim. I'll also have to remove the rear window before I do this part and the roof. The seal looks in good nick so I don't want to booger it up in case I can't find another. Drivers door and front wing sanded to bare metal were I'll be able to heat/bang on it and fill to get rid of enough of the dents that there's not an inch deep of filler. There's also a horizontal crease along the drivers door. Hard to tell from the photo the depth of the dents and it's impossible to see the crease, but I'll take more when the filler is on, that'll make it more obvious. Improved the ripples on the rear drivers quarter panel with a dolly and shrinking hammer. Need to sand about half the panel to bare metal and smooth the rest so I can give it a skim of filler. Again, the picture doesn't really show the ripples but you can see the marks from the hammer: The drivers side of the car is going to take a while. I'm not too good at bodywork so no doubt I'll have to do it two or three times as I'm a bit of a perfectionist. I find it best to sneak up on it anyway ... Rust in the rear panel as I mentioned the other day: Thinking about stripping the engine bay, trunk, interior, wheel wells and underside (or having them blasted) and spraying them with pickup truck bedliner. Should help cutting down on road noise and it's almost bulletproof. I can do it for $100 with a $20 spray gun and a couple of gallons of Duplicolor Bed Armor. Stripping and spraying the underside myself will need the car to be rotated over, I'm too effin old to do it all on my back so I have to work that out if I want to do it. Still no luck finding a motor and transmission or a donor car. Looking for a 1987-1995 Ford Mustang GT with the 5.0HO EFI V8 and T5 manual transmission. A 1990-1993 would be ideal as they have the most power (225hp) stock. The later model Mustangs had the 4.6L modular motor and had the anti-theft system which makes the swap just a little more complicated. Anyway, more this week ... -Steve
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Last Edit: Jan 21, 2013 1:20:49 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Jan 20, 2013 22:11:31 GMT
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Nothing to do with the 242 (except as a parts hauler), but ... The 850 threw an OBDII code, P0172. Apparently, it's a common fault and effects gas mileage and engine running. It relates to a very small vacuum hose elbow behind the intake manifold, under the coolant hose. The part is different for a turbo vs non-turbo motor. The part to fix it is about $2, so I ordered 3. With postage it's $11.50. www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/29195Same part for a 850 and V70. My gas mileage is 21 miles per US gallon or about 25 miles per UK gallon currently so I hope it improves. In fact I'm getting better mileage than the specs say I should now. Wild ... Otherwise, I went over the car with a fine tooth comb. The brake warning light was on, but topping up the fluid fixed that. The spark plugs, air filter and oil and filter look new. The dip stick top has broken off and the key fob door opener doesn't work. I'll grab a dip stick from the wrecking yard next trip and try a new battery in the fob. The AC coolant probably needs a top up before summer. Overall, I think the 850 was a great buy. -Steve
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Last Edit: Jan 20, 2013 22:17:13 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Jan 19, 2013 21:30:45 GMT
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Bought a new beater/daily driver. It's a 1997 Volvo 850T5 with an auto transmission. It'll be pretty sweet for banging around and driving to work. Just passed emissions today, got new tyres and the engine seems strong and runs very well. It's a 10 footer, but needs nothing, but I will certainly have it up on jack stands so I can give it a service and check over the brakes and whatnot. -Steve
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Last Edit: Jan 19, 2013 22:36:45 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Found a US supplier of GAZ shocks at $200 a pop for the steel shocks with rod end eyelets delivered. Good bloke.
Spent a whole day cleaning soft mastic from the windshield frame. Horrible stuff, but mineral spirit and lacquer thinner moves it ok. Some pitting and surface rust on the bottom corners of the frame, but I won't worry about it, I'll put some rust converter on it and prime it. I'll never admit it's there if asked!
Also looked at the bottom of the rear panel. Water collects here and even this California car has some holes along it. I have some ideas for fixing it if I can't find a rust free panel at the wreckers I can use for patch panels.
More grunt sanding/panel beating/filling work this weekend, I'll take some photos ...
-Steve
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Last Edit: Jan 19, 2013 4:34:23 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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That's a very handsome shade of red, John ... looking terrific!
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Jan 16, 2013 20:39:28 GMT
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Pulled out the front windshield today. It just pushed out, the mastic was still soft. I splashed a bunch of mineral spirit everywhere cleaning up the soft mastic on the glass. It does a great job actually, just need a lot of rags or shop towels and wipe the screen over several times to get rid of the residue. Afterwards I wiped the glass with Windex and it's pretty clean now.
Didn't get it all off yet, mind. What's left is some hard stuff around the very edges and I'm not 100% on how to get it off without buggering up the glass. I'll have a think and another go at it later. Might be wasting my time because I wanted a late model windshield bonded in, but we'll see what it looks like when it's all cleaned up.
My strut inserts arrived and I ordered the coil over parts to convert the struts. Pre-1982 240s had weaker strut tubes so I intend to grab some later ones from the wreckers and use the ones I have for mocking up and testing the conversion.
Anyone know a good supplier of AVO shocks that might ship to the US? I have email into Merlin Motorsport in Chippenham about shipping costs. Anything good or bad on Merlin?
Edit: Shipping to the US is $75 for two shocks. Seems a little high ... shopping around!
-Steve
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Last Edit: Jan 17, 2013 19:13:20 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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That's great ...
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Going slower than expected, we've had a bad cold spell here and I'm not motivated to get out and sand the car when it's below freezing ... weird in Arizona, eh? Anyway, I have gotten the boot lid and passenger side trim removed, the holes welded up, filled, sanded and primed. I started on the drivers side which needs a lot more work to fix dents and ripples but I'm having problems with my sander. I also pulled out the dashboard and ordered a replacement dash pad as mine was badly cracked. I ordered 3" shorter Koni Race strut inserts and I need parts to convert to coil overs in the front. I'm also going to replace the rear springs and shocks with AVO coil over shocks so I can adjust the ride height front and back. I'll be ordering the parts this week. If anyone is interested in which parts I'm using I'd be happy to share. Here's some pics for you pic hoes: -Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Jan 14, 2013 21:15:04 GMT
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The rear quarter panel of my Volvo 240 looks like someone has leaned on it and pushed in the body line a little bit. It's caused ripples from about the top of the rear wheel arch to half way back along the quarter panel. I've rapped on it with a body hammer and dolly and I've straightened it a quite a bit but now I'm at the point of not wanting to beat on it any more for fear of making it worse.
I'm wondering if I should give up now and start on filling it, but the filler might be as thick as 1/4" in places and I'm not feeling too good about that.
I have a pretty good dent on the drivers door too that will need some thick (maybe even more than 1/4") filler to flatten.
Any tips or ideas on this? Should I keep on beating on it to try and get the panel straighter?
Hard to take pics that show the real extend of the dents and ripples.
-Steve
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Last Edit: Jan 14, 2013 21:15:50 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Wasn't happy with the way my bodywork turned out so I'm re-doing some of it. Write up later ...
-Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Dec 31, 2012 14:06:03 GMT
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This car and your workmanship is just f@%$*#g awesome! That is all ...
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Dec 29, 2012 22:35:10 GMT
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Thanks! Mojo is super high! Making good progress too. I'll do a write up and pictures probably tomorrow or Monday.
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Pulled the seats, sun visors and headlining. Tomorrow I'll roll over to the upholstery store and see if I can find some fabric and adhesive to cover the headlining and sun visors. I also pulled all the exterior trim, bumpers and Volvo/DL badges. Tomorrow I'll weld up and sand the holes and start straightening a nice bang on the front drivers side.
Tried to TIG weld up one of the holes in the front bumper. The bumpers are pretty heavy gauge aluminum (aluminium) and the holes are used for screws to attach the rubber/plastic moldings on the outside of the bumper. I intend to smooth the bumpers and paint them. It got too late to sand the welded area to see how it turned out. If it looks good I'll weld up the other 47 holes too! I also want to work out how to mount the bumpers without the studs that are pressed into them.
I'll take some photos tomorrow to make the thread more interesting.
-Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Dec 26, 2012 21:17:32 GMT
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Been sat unloved for about a year, but I'm on it again and mojo is pretty high. Going to Plan C. No more Megasquirt or V8 shenanigans. Plan C is to replace the B21F and almost busted transmission with a Toyota Gen 5 3S-GE BEAMS motor and 6 speed transmission. 207-210hp with no mods depending on where one reads. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_S_engine#3S-GEThey're available on ebay for around $2000 delivered and that is very cost effective compared to the Ford V8 or the turbo B21 route. The tricky part will be the 3S-GE has a front sump which might hit the cross member, but as long as I can get it installed rearward enough to miss the steering rack I think I can build a replacement cross member to support the steering rack. I'm a bit skint and I've never done much bodywork so I decided to work on the body and interior first. Fixing dings and dents and replacing or restoring the interior. I ordered replacement door window scraper moldings and I removed the cracked outer moldings and the inner door panels. I am researching how to clean/paint the door panels which are very faded and remove the (white and dirty) head lining so I can cover it with some funky material. The seats are torn and cr@p so I'm going to pull those out today also. -Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Dec 25, 2012 17:51:39 GMT
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If you're a V8 guy that's cool, I thought about a Ford 5.0HO and T5 for a long time. I also have a similar vintage Volvo 242, but the transmission is pants and the motor is now failing emissions, so I'm considering replacing both with a Toyota 3SGE BEAMS engine and 6 speed transmission. Normally aspirated and pretty cheap 210hp at the crank. Biggest problem I see fitting the 3SGE is the front sump fouling the steering rack, but there's a ton of space in the engine bay so pushing the motor back a little, maybe even cutting the bulkhead and making a cross member should have it fitting.
-Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Last Edit: Oct 5, 2012 19:37:35 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Sept 19, 2012 19:29:57 GMT
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Here's a pretty detailed explanation of relocating the shifter 4" forward on an MX5 gearbox: the-mite.com/mite18.htmIn fact, the whole build is pretty good reading. Really like the direction you're taking this car. Keep it up! -Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Aug 31, 2012 21:35:43 GMT
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Gottit now, thanks!
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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I'm probably misunderstanding so I don't understand this. You put the shims between the bearing and the diff? The shims also set the backlash between the pinion gear and the ring gear by adjusting the differential left or right to get the correct gear backlash. When I've done it in the past I've set the pinion gear location first, but it looks like yours is already set. Then the bearings are pressed on the and the diff dropped in. I adjusted the shims between the bearings and the diff housing to get the correct backlash then used some paint to check the gear tooth engagement. If the shims are between the bearing and the diff how will you set the backlash? This might also be a reason the diff isn't turning freely. -Steve
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Last Edit: Aug 31, 2012 7:57:34 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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