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Sept 23, 2022 11:45:43 GMT
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Microsquirt certainly looks a good option, I want to start with fuel only using all of the original sensors so I can go back to the old ECM if required, only thing which doesn't seem compatible is the vane air meter type maf sensor, I plan to go speed density so won't need it to measure air flow, as far as I can see I can replace it with a piece of tube with an Air temp sensor in it or peg the flap open and use the original internal air temp sensor.
Once it runs well on fuel only I might add wasted spark ignition etc.
Looks like I will also need a wideband O2 sensor controller and Map sensor any recommendations for the wideband controller?
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Sept 22, 2022 21:22:52 GMT
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Is the tank connection in the bottom of the indirect coil or the top? If its the top it looks like an attempt at thermo syphoning but it would be re-circulating the return when the pump is on. It's much more efficient if you add a fully pumped system with control valves, circuit is basicaly boiler out, pump, control valves then the hot water/heating zones.
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Sept 21, 2022 11:02:52 GMT
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My 87 Range rover has the Lucas 4cu / flapper system, generally it runs very well but I have had to re-solder the ECU a few times and it's playing up again, I have a spare which has had similar problems as well, reading up on line it seems to be very common as they get older. The 4cu is basically an analogue system which uses resistors, transistors and capacitors to derive a injector pulse, when it works it drives very well but being open loop the fuelling is far from perfect and it does smell a bit especially when cold (worse than my TR7V8 on SU's).
So my thought is to make a drop in ECU using a aftermarket ECU in one of the original cases, using most of the original installation (even pegging the AFM open and using the original thermo sensor), and only add a Oxygen sensor, pipe to a map sensor in the ecu and wire to control the fuel pump. It would use the original distributor, mechanical idle speed control, TPS, take the ignition pulse from the coil, temperatures from the original sensors and power the original injectors via the original ballast resistor. I am also thinking about adding a catalyst afterwards as well to clean it up a bit.
This brings me to which ecu to use, on cost grounds I have narrowed it down to a speeduino or a Megasquirt, both it seems can support an ignition coil pulse for engine speed so would seem to be suitable, both also seem to have the ability to self map the fuel based on the oxygen sensor feedback.
Anyone any thoughts on the how well the self mapping works and reliability etc of the 2?
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Sept 20, 2022 21:05:10 GMT
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Depends what it is, if it's a Landrover there are loads of aftermarket security devices, some of these can be adapted to or give you ideas for other cars as well, if you always park it in the same place you can chain it to something, or park something modern in front of it, the old trick of removing the rotor arm will stop it being driven away, reality is if someone really wants it they will find a way, all we can do is slow them down.
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Sept 20, 2022 20:34:37 GMT
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That seems to be the way most people interpret it everything from 7 litre vintage Bentleys in 4 litre chassis to MGBv8's and TR7V8's, though the whole thing is very loose, there is also a clause which says you can fit anything if it improves emissions which would indicate anything with a catalyst goes as well.
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Sept 17, 2022 15:10:14 GMT
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The fundemental problem with the 105e is the width between the chassis legs is too narrow to get an east west engine in, this is why you would need to basically transplant the front end of a frontwheel drive car into it, somehow making the strucure work etc as well.
As above though easiest option which can virtually be done with off the shelf parts is something like a mx5 rwd, powertrain and it would give you a better driving car in the end.
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Last Edit: Sept 17, 2022 15:11:00 GMT by kevins
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Sept 17, 2022 7:26:36 GMT
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AsI'm sure you are aware the only real way to repair flaking laquer is to take the whole panel back below the base coat and start again.
To try to tidy it up you will need to get rid of all the white areas then you could locally re-laquer, it will not look great but should all be one colour and may look passable from a distance.
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Last Edit: Sept 20, 2022 18:45:38 GMT by kevins
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Sept 15, 2022 6:24:18 GMT
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I use hobby gas which is a bit dearer but no montly rental and the local hire place does it who are open saturday mornings.
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Sept 11, 2022 11:44:46 GMT
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I'd paint it the right colours then decide how much it bugs me, I think if you paint around it black to match the vinyl roof it won't be so noticible.
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Sept 10, 2022 14:45:42 GMT
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Ka - about an hour ago we have one and so does a neighbour!
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Sept 8, 2022 20:27:11 GMT
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Best option is to get a running donor car and disconnect everything you don't want one connection at a time making sure it runs in between, mark all the redundant connectors and then once you have taken the loom out you can then strip all the wires which were not connected out.
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Sept 8, 2022 11:07:29 GMT
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If you have the patience one way to get loads of wire in different colours is to buy the loom from a scrap car and strip it down.
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Yes it's the same technology, with the screen being more vertical they seem less noticible than our puma though.
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Sept 7, 2022 21:02:38 GMT
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No that's the factory joint😀 Fitted the heated screen to the minor today. Managed to break the old one getting it out but otherwise it went smoothly, bit of a faff getting the chrome trim in but got there in the end, we ran out of time to get the sealer in so that will have to be for another day. Also need to wire it up at some point.
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Last Edit: Sept 7, 2022 21:04:23 GMT by kevins
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Sept 6, 2022 21:43:03 GMT
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Not seen them before they look to have potential, that said there's not any sanding marks, the area which needs a bit more work is the area of overspray along the RH edge, I kept well clear of the edges with the polisher and obviously didn't do enough by hand.
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Sept 6, 2022 18:36:13 GMT
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Bonnets back on, Flatted it back with 2000 grit then polished it, it looks fine but if you look closely a couple of areas could do with a bit more work perhaps one day I will get round to it. Even splashed out on some new washer jets as the old ones looked a bit manky and one was missing the correct nut. Might take it for a spin tomorrow to see what it looks like in daylight.
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Last Edit: Sept 6, 2022 18:38:19 GMT by kevins
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Sept 5, 2022 13:04:31 GMT
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In the form it's used here it went out of favour because of crash, intrusion onto the foot space as cars got lower and compromising suspension geometry (particularly dive).
Though many cars used it with transverse bars on the rear until very recently.
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Last Edit: Sept 5, 2022 13:06:56 GMT by kevins
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Sept 5, 2022 11:20:49 GMT
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Cars that had them factory fitted (Escort Cosworth and TR7 come to mind) seem to have them about half way along the bonnet too, I suspect that is a fairly low pressure area.
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Lovely work, I'm amazed they welded the rear light bar on we often replace those on Transits. (Bolt on so an hours job)
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They are very close to what the oem's use with a bit of shrink wrap. Inside the car they all work fine, wet areas need something that seals like Blackpop suggested.
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