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It's been a long time since I looked at one of these but I'm pretty sure they are like cortinas and mk2 escorts, you take the hub and disc off as an assembly by undoing the centre nut then there 4 bolts which hold the disc to the back of the hub, you could change the bearings while you are there but there's no need to just cover them to keep any dirt and rust out when you remove the disc.
The outer bearing will fall out so be carefull to catch it, the inner should be retained by the oil seal.
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The key thing to check will be bottom of the chassis leg height from the ground, I suspect the minor is much lower which means the subframe won't fit under it and you will therefore need to re-design the whole front structure.
The steering is likely to be a problem too, the minor has a rack high up on the bulkhead like many modern cars, the singer I believe uses a old fasioned steering box etc.
Should be entirely possible to use the singer engine and axle though, plenty of simularly sized engines have been fitted to minors.
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I used the std bolts with the composite gaskets (done up to the std spec for them), has worked fine for 10 years, I think the engine had been overheated, when I tighted the bolts 2 stripped in the block, I used helicoils which were 1.5 x the bolt diameter long.
They were drilled and taped in the car (TR7V8) but one did end up a bit off and was a tight fit to get back in. Using the old heads as a drill guide seems like good idea.
This was in the first engine I had, it had a persistant knock from the bottom end when hot, investigations found a twisted con rod as well but even with this and the offending piston replaced it still knocked, I tried all sorts of things but in the end fitted a secondhand block and pistons which fixed it (I think the liner may have been moving), this doesen't have any helicoils but has been fine with the std bolts and composite gaskets for at least 10 years now.
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Last Edit: Oct 5, 2022 20:41:01 GMT by kevins
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Been driving a 05 suzuki swift as a hire car for the last couple of weeks, didn't feel cramped to me, 6'3 and size 13.
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There were also 13" minilite type wheels fitted to late minis.
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Plenty of places around who will re-line a clutch if that helps, long time since I had one done but I'd guess it should be around the £100 mark now.
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I don't think the bolts are stretch bolts, I have always re-used the old ones.
I used helicoils (1.5 diameter long) in the one I repaired, worked fine.
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Last Edit: Oct 5, 2022 19:03:48 GMT by kevins
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I used Don hoods for my TR7, took a while to arrive but great quality and fit.
I have had a new window sew into a welded hood it worked but wasn't particularly neat.
For the fixings the usual way is to fit them to the body then punch the hood to match when you fit it.
Zip in rear windows mean you can have some shade and more air on hot days, I've used it a few times on long journeys but not very often.
Gearbox should be the same feel as a minor, could be something simple in the remote or may be something in the selectors but as the midget has I believe a fixed trans tunnel it's got to come out for either. (might be worth checking it has the right gearstick, smooth and ribbed case ones differ.
I once fitted a panhard rod to a escort, didn't effect the ride but massively improved the handling.
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Door looks great, barn looks like it's going to be a useful space when done.
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I've had a Britpart composite set on my TR7V8 for 10 years now with no problems, it's a std 9.35cr sd1 lump with a mild cam and su's so pretty much standard.
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As others have said as long as the cam and followers match, the rest will be OK, especially given they have hydraulic lifters. An alternative is to use studs ilo of the bolts but they are not cheap either! (ARP set is around £150).
If you do add thread inserts to the block make sure they are dead square, a tiny bit out and the bolts are a couple of mm out at the top so the head won't go back in.
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Great news, can't imagine the process does much for morale though.
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The light in the cluster flashes with the indicators and there is the noise, with the both the hazard switch on top of the shroud is illuminated and flashes but the indicator one doesen't as well this is his issue, a colleague had a few similar things on his boxter there as well.
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Sept 30, 2022 18:03:14 GMT
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Ream the bore out and machine up a slightly oversize piston?
Or if the old one is OK get it plated with something.
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Last Edit: Sept 30, 2022 18:04:15 GMT by kevins
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Sept 30, 2022 17:58:57 GMT
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It passed today still with a minor fault, he insisted when the hazards are on that the indicator warning light in the cluster should flash as well as the red light in the switch on top of the steering column, it's always done that, I'm pretty sure legaly you only need one warning light and it's never been an issue before, I'll be going elsewhere in future.
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Sept 30, 2022 9:00:24 GMT
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Mine was a 410(?) with the Chrysler v8 and bought because I read an article that they were the ultimate motorway cruiser due to the airplane design. Was doing loads of miles and had a company Petrol card - ah the 90’s - so purchased the first one I saw. It was definitely effortless on the motorway but the fuel bill was a little more than the company accountants would stomach so it went after 4months. ShOuld have kept it but, as above, was stupid. Lovely old thing. P. I did something similar in the 90's company fuel reimbursement was based on engine capacity so I went out and bought a V12 XJS, again superbly comfortable for long journeys, it was one of the first HE's and could do low 20's on a long journey too, even had cruise control.
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Sept 29, 2022 21:12:28 GMT
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Thanks for that, lets hope they can't find a std one!
Not a bad price at £240 either, Ford want £900 for one for the street ka.
They do one for the elan as well, might be easier than getting the heater to work effectively.
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Last Edit: Sept 29, 2022 21:23:39 GMT by kevins
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Sept 29, 2022 18:56:51 GMT
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Wheel bearing kit from ECP cost a whole £4.60, apparantly they are part of their obsolete parts clearance, probably means I'll be doing it again next year but 7she needs it next week and it was all I could get, only takes 1/2 hour to change anyway. Also took a look at the front suspension arm again, the bush had started to walk out, comparing it with the old one the problem was obvious. The new OE ford part on the left the one I took out on the right, obviously a pattern part and the bottom is a different shape and upon checking the arm it is also to this form with a taper in the bottom of the cavity. This all prevents the bush from going fully home. 10 minutes on the lathe did this to the Ford one. Pressed it in with bearing lock and 3 tack welds on the top flange, it's not moving again! Much better to drive now in fact It's a hoot to drive, torque steer it's always had has all but dissapeared, the pattern bush must have been far to flexible even when it was new. Re-test in the morning. Also been using the TR for the last few days, with a good clean up and a polish it's going to look pretty tidy, even entered it in a show in a couple of weeks time. Would be nice if Autoglass can find a windscreen before then too.
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Last Edit: Sept 29, 2022 19:01:19 GMT by kevins
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Sept 29, 2022 8:46:32 GMT
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At a very high level the lighter the better but there are some caveats, you need to at least maintain and ideally lower the vertical centre of gravity by removing weight from higher up in the vehicle and you also need to aim for a neutral front to rear distribution. With a significant weight reduction you will need new suspension settings and the optimum tyres will probably be ones with a softer compound.
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Sept 28, 2022 21:06:16 GMT
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It's a salisbury 4HA which is also used in many Jags, you can fit the jag powerlock diff, a quick google search indicates several people have used it with 400+hp with no problems.(I would think wheel spin will be the limiting factor anyway).
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