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Aug 10, 2017 13:56:20 GMT
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Need a button that communicates something stronger than "Like".
Looking forward to the details of how you get this beast up in the air. As I have been playing along at home, I was trying to work out a clam-shell approach to getting the van body over the Durango chassis.
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Aug 10, 2017 13:50:38 GMT
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not a "B" loom....there are more than 6 wires for a start!! ;-) Actually, the Advanced stuff is really good and you can get as many circuits as you want. A huge argument for the Advanced stuff is that it uses MGB wire colors. After 42 years of playing with MG and other Brit cars, I can pretty much wire them in my sleep without a wiring diagram. I have used the Painless Wiring harness, and while overpriced compared to what else is out there, it is easy to use. So why am I going for this undeniably harder approach? Who knows, some misguided desire to keep the DNA pool down to Miata and Ford where possible. Partly just cause I seem to like doing things the hard way because I can.
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Quick update on this. Ive had a few welders look at it and they reckon its all standard work that should take no more than 2 weeks. One guy quoted me £3000 to get it to mot standard but would need to be transported to his place far out of london. Overall good news in that it's certainly saveable. Not sure how i'll continue from here, no issues with storage so may sit on it till i've got the time to learn how to weld and just crack on with it myself I'm the future. I spend my time restoring rusty classics and IMO looking at your pics there's a lot more than 2 weeks welding there which would lead me to think that the guy who says 2 weeks will end up cutting corners. I help a lot of people with their rustorations and neither the price nor the timeline quoted make sense to me. That is a BIG project. In my world, this scuttle/dash repair and the windshield surround damage would exceed your quoted budget. I see this as an opportunity to get stuck in the deep-end and find out what your swimming talents might be. The £300 would be better spend on a good welder, tools and panels to get started on your own. No shame in discovering this kind of work is not for you, but at least you wont be any further from a finished product than you would have been after you got it back from the shop, and you will own the tools.
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Last Edit: Aug 9, 2017 18:02:27 GMT by bjornagn
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Last Edit: Aug 8, 2017 11:45:43 GMT by bjornagn
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Epic build and a great concept to start with.
First time you drive it in anger and the rpms cross-over to VTEC mode is going to be an eye-opener!
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So how close are the two vehicles when comparing wheelbase and track widths?
I am really curious to see how this one comes together.
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Are you hanging over the bonnet as you drive it, then? So fat the only "driving has been the 35' between the shop and the front garage! I cant express how much I want to take this for a run around the block.
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In the penalty box until I get a bit of work sorted on the MGB that was here last summer. Ignore the mechanical gauges hanging out the front, just keeping en eye on the vitals. Blaster discovered a bit of rust that needs fixed in the front of the MGB sills. Nothing serious,just a bit of weldy wire and tin Bit of castle rail, bill of middle membrane and a bit of outer sill and it will be as good as new. Put a bit od $$$ in the Molvo bank also since the last push has been rather spendy.
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Jul 23, 2017 23:07:44 GMT
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<img src="//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/bbcode/video-preview.png" video="<iframe width="560" height="315" src=" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>" alt="Video Preview">
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Jul 19, 2017 12:19:19 GMT
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Now it's running, how long before you can test drive it I wonder? As soon as I bolt the front tires on and finish putting fluid in the transmission. Thinking this weekend for sure.
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About one month behind schedule. Ran for about half an hour to see if it held temperature and fluids. So far so good. <img src="//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/bbcode/video-preview.png" video="<iframe width="560" height="315" src=" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>" alt="Video Preview">
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Last Edit: Jul 19, 2017 3:40:23 GMT by bjornagn
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Jul 17, 2017 11:35:24 GMT
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Not to be obvious, but why not just make up another set of wheels 1/2" narrower? Going to be easier than the panhard bar in my estimation.
Keep in mind that a panhard is actually going to move the axle sideways a bit as it does its job. So while the rear will move less than with leaf springs, it will need sideways room.
If you do go ahead with the panhard, take time to make the mounts on the body and the axle very strong; the loads are quite high and it will tear sheet metal out of the car.
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Last Edit: Jul 17, 2017 11:36:01 GMT by bjornagn
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Jul 16, 2017 22:44:48 GMT
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Why we are not out celebrating this thing making loud noises Pinhole leak in the heater by-pass tube. Not sure what is wrong with me that I can sort out the marriage of two vehicles, and yet this stuff drives me around the bend!
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Jul 15, 2017 14:37:33 GMT
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I would take out the area shown. The sum total of welding is not anymore than the three individual spots would require and you will get a chance to paint the inside of the sill with POR or whatever your favourite rust killer might be. OR, just wire wheel the areas, bit of fiberglass and bog with some spray can paint and you are good to go for a bit longer. Answer all depends on what you want, need and can afford to do with talent, time and $$$$. Myself...I would strip it to a bare shell, put it up on a chassis rotisserie and restore every nut and bolt on the car. But I have a character flaw that way
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Jul 13, 2017 20:09:53 GMT
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Great read. I have had my 67 since I was in uni almost 40 years ago. Sadly mine has not been seeing the active life that your GT does.
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Jul 11, 2017 19:01:09 GMT
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All the cool kids are using these on their hot-rods for the clean shaven look! The add is from JEGS They come in a variety of sizes.
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Jul 11, 2017 16:09:12 GMT
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While bemoaning the loss of Photobucket images on my Molvo thread, I accidentally refreshed the page and the pictures come back. I don't know if this will last or not, but it might be an opportunity for people to grab pictures that they might otherwise lose. First view: After screen refresh: Tried it with a few other build threads and it worked every time. I pulled all of my pictures off as I would have lost them otherwise since I cant log on to photobucket. Apologize since this post is not on topic for this forum, but maybe others need to salvage build threads.
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Jul 11, 2017 11:33:05 GMT
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Radiator and hoses done. The upper hose was kinda complicated but with an eventual solution that was quite easy and elegant. It's a stock Mustang upper that has been sectioned in the middle and now lines up like factory. Put some hose clamps on hoses to keep water inside, add fluids and we can light this candle. Waiting on some cool "heat shrink" clamps to go over the sectioned part of the upper hose.
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