Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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1986 Subaru Brat WRXRitchie
@ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member 12
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I'm happy to say that finally my pocket rocket truck is at a suitable stage to make it into this section. I've had some discussions with Will Holman of Practical Performance Car magazine and it will make an appearance in the mag in the near future. 1986 US Imported Subaru Brat converted to right hand drive. 1998 UK GC8 Impreza Turbo EJ20 engine, gearbox, rear diff, front struts and brakes all round. Custom front driveshafts, propshaft and gearbox mount. Rear torsion bars have been clocked. Custom made rear 5x100 hubs installed on the rear to match the Impreza hubs on the front and allow fitment of the rear disc brake setup. Rays TE37 5x100 16" wheels fitted with 205 45/16 Toyo Proxes. Custom 2.5in stainless exhaust with classic WRX Prodrive rear box modded to fit. Early Legacy Chargecooler, pump and radiator. Walbro 255 High pressure fuel pump, Facet low pressure fuel pump feeding the swirlpot. Subaru L Series power steering rack with early Legacy column UJ. Homemade roll bar. Rear de-bumpered with a UK spec foglight installed along with LED side repeaters to fill the bumper bracket holes. Interior has been soundproofed and re-carpeted. Bride sets, Sparco steering wheel, boost gauge, live AFR readout, Knocklight and a small revcounter has been squeezed into the original cluster.
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Subaru Brat WRX.Ritchie
@ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member 12
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May 12, 2021 12:05:21 GMT
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Hi all, it's been a busy few days, I thought I had better finish off the roll bar I had started before I tackled the interior. It really just needed a few more welds, a tidy up then zinc primed and rattle canned black, hopefully the paint will last a while, however I'd like to get it powder coated at some point. It was actually quite tricky to get it to sit right, as oddly the wheel wells in the bed are not symmetrical. I think it suits the truck, I had considered welding lugs on the top for spots but I think it's a bit neater without. So, that done, onto the interior. The original matting was ok, but it was a bit scruffy and agricultural and I wanted to install some additional soundproofing. I've seen people have pretty good success with 4-way stretch carpet, used for motorhomes etc. so I figured this might be a good option. Wrong. I don't know if the stuff I bought was correct or not, it was advertised as 4-way stretch carpet but it didn't. At all. Anyway after a lot of swearing I got it in, it's not perfect but looks ok. Soundproofing was stuck down prior to installing the carpet, and it seems to have made quite a difference. I installed the new seats as well, but they are tight. Might have to lay off the pies and pints for a bit. So, finally after far to long, it's looking just about there. I would like to strip back the engine bay and give it a paint as it's pretty scruffy. I have VF34 turbo on it's way and I'm looking into a Link ECU and a suitable mapper in my area. Ideally I'll re-visit the dogs breakfast of a exhaust downpipe prior to mapping and weld up a 2.5in V-Band downpipe which clears everything a bit more neatly.
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Subaru Brat WRX.Ritchie
@ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member 12
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Apr 24, 2021 12:38:48 GMT
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New seats incoming, along with some red carpet and some sound proofing, hopefully get this interior finished in the next week or two.
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Apr 24, 2021 12:31:30 GMT
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Lovely, I would love a classic Rangey, particularly an LSE but I can't justify one. My folks had an Ardennes green G plate one when it was only a couple years old and surprisingly it's still on the road somewhere according to the DVLA.
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Apr 16, 2021 18:02:05 GMT
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I once had the same oil leak on a pinto which had been sitting for a while and it sealed itself after a while, you might get lucky!
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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'77 Chevy C10 - Rolling restoRitchie
@ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member 12
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Apr 12, 2021 17:09:39 GMT
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Yep, love C10s. Roadkill’s muscle truck is the nuts. I would consider getting rid of my Brat for the right one.
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Show Us Your R/C CarsRitchie
@ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member 12
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Apr 10, 2021 15:16:35 GMT
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The body looks good in the flip colour with all the curves, good effort.
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Subaru Brat WRX.Ritchie
@ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member 12
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Thanks for the positive comments gents.
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Subaru Brat WRX.Ritchie
@ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member 12
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Hello all, just a small update. I managed to get some time on this to sort out the cosmetics, It's always they same isn't it, as soon as a project is on the road it just gets driven and the motivation disappears. Anyway, the Brats been running great, I took the time to machine polish it, which is possibly a bit daft given the paint condition and the amount of scuffs and scratches on it but it makes it a decent 10 footer anyway. I finished off the front bumper which meant plugging the old over rider holes with 8mm plastic trim plugs, fitting some plastic grill material into the removed indicator holes and tinting the side running lights which are now wired and used as LED side repeaters. As the back bumper was pretty bashed up I decided to remove it altogether. UK trucks don't have this full bumper, only the quarter pieces but it looks a lot cleaner with the whole lot removed. I also fitted a motorbike tail tidy with an LED numberplate light. A UK spec foglight was fitted in the old bumper mount hole and a spare cover painted to match and fitted in the other side to replace the one with the hole for the bracket in this pic. I also installed some LED clear round indicators in the old bumper bracket mounting holes. A tidy improvement I think. Previously I had sprayed the stainless bed trim satin black but this was now all flaking off and looked terrible so I decided satin black wrap was the way to go, I did everything expect the screen trim whic I might do yet. This was a nightmare of a job but really worth it as it looks a lot better. The young lads bikes a perfect fit in the back, full size one, not so much. I had always wanted to fit a roll bar in the back, however original fit ones are very hard to get and IMO don't actually look that good as the are quite high. I stumble across a cheap adjustable roll bar kit designed for use inside a car, a bit plop and for show really but I thought I could make something out of it. I measured it all out and welded it where it needed to be, dummy buildup.. I would like to get this powder coated when it's finished, however given the current restrictions it's not very easy, I might just paint it for now. One day this will maybe get into the "Showcase" section , I still have the interior to finish.
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Last Edit: Apr 9, 2021 7:43:52 GMT by Ritchie
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Show Us Your R/C CarsRitchie
@ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member 12
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I thought I'd give a manufacturer I'd never had before a go for my latest project, this is the new Mardave Street Racer 10. Mardave was always (IMO) a bit of a budget brand and didn't really hold much interest for me but the are really upping their game. This kit doesn't come with a body so I got this Protoform '71 Firebird shell which looks great and is great quality. I was impressed with the Mardave and it's good quality, however it's disappointing that they don't use a standard hex fitment which really limits your wheel choice. This was also my first time using magnetic body mounts, it became obvious quickly that they are only really use for shelf queens as any impact and the body comes flying off. Overall I'm happy with this one.
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Last Edit: Apr 9, 2021 7:20:14 GMT by Ritchie
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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V8 CosworthRitchie
@ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member 12
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Feb 19, 2021 18:10:29 GMT
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Lovely, a snip at 13k dollars!
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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No prep rc drag carsRitchie
@ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member 12
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Feb 11, 2021 17:11:25 GMT
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Always been into RC but never really looked at the drag stuff, they look ace!
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Just spotted this, lovely...
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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1993 CR250 (road legal!), engine is currently in a thousand parts due to it being shagged, this will be rebuild very soon, I just received all of the cases back from being ceramic coated. Should be mint when it's finished. Love that!! Its about the time I got into motocross and I remember reading DBR checking out all the new models every year. I think thats the year I really wanted a CR, does it have 'CR250R' written in script along the swingarm on the other side? I don't have a big bike licence or anywhere to ride a crosser, but some nights I just browse ebay hoping for a cheap bike with a seized motor I can just polish up and hang in the garage I'm not into motocross at all, I just bought it to bomb around a field (when I can get one to use) and sit in the garage and look pretty. It is meant to have the CR250R decals on the swingarm, I have them and they will go on soon. It's actuallly not as daft as it sounds buying one to do up and have it just sitting there. You'll never lose money on it if you buy the right one and it's very satisfying when you can stand back and admire your work. Be aware though, parts ain't cheap. It's costing around 1k do do this engine properly, but I do mean OEM Honda on every single bearing and seal, new Honda crank, rod, piston (Vertex), bore replate and the cases ceramic coated. I used to read DBR aswell, we must be around the same age as I remember lusting after them and had a poster on my wall. I was 13 with a Suzuki ZR50.
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Jan 13, 2021 18:48:15 GMT
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The puretens are good wee cars, just be careful with the pull start and don’t pull it right out to the stop as they are quite easily jammed.
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Is it still available, I am interested in some photos The clue is in the last post -
Was passing by and collected this earlier today.
When did everybody start calling "Drawers", "Draws" does my head in! You see it everywhere now. Grrr.
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Yes, any generic 1/8th scale truck body should be ok. Just pay attention to the heights of the bed / bonnet and try to make a judgement on if your posts are in roughly the correct place and height. You can get away with a bit here and there as you can adjust to suit. Also, once you trim the body, drop it on the truck to mark the holes before you paint it. You won’t see where they are if you paint it first.
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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I would just check out pics on Google of HPI Savage trucks to see if you can match it up, sorry I can be of more help. Proline do good 1/8" scale truck bodies and they aren't too expensive. You might get some on ebay, or Modelsport might have some. Most truck bodies would fit, just try to make a judgement on where the posts are and where they would roughly be on the body.
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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PM sent.
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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I think it's pretty reasonable to spent a lot, even more than the car is worth by some margin as long as it is solid and not rusty. Otherwise you are just chasing rust and delaying the inevitable IMO. As soon as I see rust starting to get a hold too much I tend to get rid as I can't be arsed with the battle.
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