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May 19, 2023 21:14:31 GMT
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I got tried of the noise from the ported & overdriven S/C even with the sealed air box & ITG cone filter. I had lined the box with insulation foam sheets, all sides including the lid but it was still too loud. Here on the left. What to do? The stock air filter housing is well designed and keeps the stock S/C noise levels very well suppressed, but it becomes a restriction and flow is maxed out when hitting above 250 bhp. In actual fact if the engine is tuned for 270 bhp or more the filter housing will cost 15-18 bhp at max rev's. Now, I'm at approx 250 bhp refitting the stock housing shouldn't cause a lost in max power but may not give the best throttle response, but I'm unsure about that. Since I was using 75mm diameter hoses for the inlet & outlet of the homebrew sealed air box I decided to use the same on the stock air filter housing rather than stick with the original 63mm. A few mod's later to the filter housing including removing the interior baffling at the inlet and outlets and job done. What a different from a noise perspective, along with no noticeable lost in throttle response or outright power and LTFT's and AFR's haven't changed. Inlet, basically the same as I used with the sealed air box but larger that the original stock inlet. Outlet, removed the 63mm built in flange and fitted a 75mm aftermarket flange, sealed with epoxy glue - messy but great stuff. Inlet connected into air filter housing. Nice and smooth alloy pipe right into the housing.
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Last Edit: May 20, 2023 12:37:38 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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May 18, 2023 21:35:05 GMT
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In a nutshell you need to use an OBD scanner with a 38 pin adapter that's capable to diagnose transmission fault codes. A genuine Carsoft 7.4 will but there's others like Autotel etc. Stuck in 2nd is not an uncommon fault, can't remember the causes but a search on web should help.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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IAT standalone gauge connected up and working. The only downside is it does not react to temp changes as quickly as the live data via the OBD. But, it told me what I needed to know - the resister fitment into the IAT signal in the MAF is working as intended. When the live data read out states 25C, the gauge reads 35C which is bang on the money. Boost & IAT gauge temporarily mounted with double sided tape. I need to find a permanent suitable location. Temp probe plumbed into inlet hose.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Apr 25, 2023 22:43:21 GMT
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I wouldn't be concerned about the rust on those bars. A good going over with a wire brush on an angle grinder would sort them out, along with a rush killer and paint. The only reason those bars are fitted is because the Crossfire used the R170 SLK chassis and those bars are there to give a little reinforcement as the SLK is a convertible. beat me to it - was gonna say it was a legacy of SLK underpinnings and with the crossfire being a tin top they probably do very little Very rare I beat somebody to it!
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Apr 25, 2023 22:27:28 GMT
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I wouldn't be concerned about the rust on those bars. A good going over with a wire brush on an angle grinder would sort them out, along with a rush killer and paint.
The only reason those bars are fitted is because the Crossfire used the R170 SLK chassis and those bars are there to give a little reinforcement as the SLK is a convertible.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Apr 25, 2023 21:32:31 GMT
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Just about completed the list of bits & pieces to have the car ready for the road on 1st May. I got the second pair of new rear tyres fitted, when back to Yokohama Advan Sport 105's. I'll advertise the new Kumho's as their no good to me, even if I get a few bucks back it will be better than a kick in the ass. I also finished cleaning up the rear suspension on both sides and subframe. Yeah, it's an old Merc and worth darn all but it's just nicer having everything clean and fresh. The last item to do is fit a self sealing hose adapter to the inlet hose for the I.A.T gauge. The adapter is due to be delivered tomorrow.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Apr 22, 2023 20:59:25 GMT
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It looks really great. The red is such a nice change from the usual. Well wear.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Apr 14, 2023 21:45:08 GMT
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As I mentioned in the last post the IAT's will now be under reading on the OBD live data. Since I haven't got a larger I.C. yet, I reckoned it would be good idea to keep an eye on the real IAT's. I ordered a standalone gauge which I'll temporarily mount it on the dash beside the boost gauge. Next up, I got around to cleaning up the underbody, mainly the front and rear suspension arms as these suffered from a lot of superficial rust over the last few weeks while doing some road testing in the wet. Usually, the damp and wet weather doesn't really cause much of an issue but I was putting the car back into the garage each time and forgetting to leave a window open for ventilation, this caused a lot of condensation due to the hot engine and exhaust. I'm not into all the detailing stuff, simply haven't got the interest but if I can keep things looking o.k. I'll put in a bit of effort. Washed down all of the suspension and subframe, let it dry and treated anything looking rusty with Owatrol oil initially. I'll let it dry for 48hrs and then the black parts will be painted in Owatrol black and the subframe touched up with a white oil based paint. The front suspension and cross member got the same treatment. Why you my ask am I bothering with superficial rust? The truth is I had all paint & oil left over from my overhaul of the suspension three years ago and for a nice change I didn't have to sent any money. The same went for the insides of the wheels, just cleaned with wet & dry 600 & 1500, standard grey primer and several coats of lacquer, thist should make it easy to clean them in future. When my new Yoko's arrive I'm sure the tyre fitter will be amazed that 25 year old wheels are actually spotless.
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Last Edit: Apr 14, 2023 22:21:15 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Yeah, do have a good poke around. Mine looked perfect until I went to change the springs and spring height rubbers. There was rust coming from below the perch where the rubber was trapping moisture. A bit of poking and I easily created a few pin holes, same on the other side. The rest of the perches were solid.
Not wanting to get new perches fitted, they need to be welded in correctly as you can imagine, I got 3mm thick steel plate cut into two crescents, then welded to the top of the perches and also welded to the inner wings. It did the job and has lasted with no signs of any problems, there's a lot of stress on the perches, compounded by fitting new shorter stronger springs.
It's just sometime to look out for (not funny if one snaps all of a sudden which has happened), even if perches are o.k. there's no harm in cleaning them up inside especially, treating them and adding some paint.
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Last Edit: Apr 8, 2023 9:42:39 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Great progress and I think it looks worse than it is. Any repairs seem very accessible too. One major potential issue on these chassis is front spring perches snapping off from the inner wing due to rust. I'd advise you give the perch area a good clean and a good inspection. They rust on both sides and around the top where the spring rubber mounts sits. If, the worst came to the worst the perches are available from Chrysler, M-B and after market suppliers, cheap too. Keep up the good work.
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Last Edit: Apr 7, 2023 20:14:49 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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So, I fitted the new MAF and o2 sensor and I got the AFR's spot on from idle to cruise to wide open throttle. The MAF clamp was set correctly @ 4.7v, 0.1v below the max threshold of 4.8v.
When out and did some 'road testing' and found the bypass valve opening when nearing max rev's in 3rd and 4th gears. Max boost pressure was only 10 psi while there was no issue in 2nd, the bypass staying closed and boost was 13psi as expected.
Talk about getting frustrated and thinking I had screwed up, I was getting annoyed with myself too.
Now, I knew there's an inbuilt map in the ECU which acts as a torque limiter and that's why the problem was happening 3 & 4th (in would be the same in 5th but I didn't get a chance to try) but not 2nd gear. Still, the MAF clamp should have taken care of it.
What to do next? Simple, just ask somebody that's actually knows his stuff when it comes to issues like I have. It transpired that the MAF voltage clamp was not enough and I'd need to fit a resistor to the IAT signal (IAT is build in to the MAF) to the ECU. One 1.3K ohmn 0.5w resistor later, bingo, max boost pressure in all gears.
The ECU pulls timing @ 35C/3.5 degrees, 45C/6.0 degrees and at 60C it's 10 degrees or more. Pulling timing @ 35C is considered very conservative by all accounts, the resistor will now fool the ECU by under reading the IAT, thus no timing pull at 35C. With this setup it's a very good reason to buy a larger I.C., so that's next on the list. I'm even considering getting an I.C. water spray kit too, not for more power but just to keep everything safe and not lose any power.
If anybody is wondering why I needed a MAF voltage clamp in the first place after getting the ECU remapped to remove the MAF limiter/Torque limiter/Boost limiter, call it what you want, well I may be able to remove the clamp as the remap may have worked (I haven't tried yet) but what remap interfered with the MAF IAT map within the ECU for some reason, the jury is still out on this one but the general thinking is, either by accident or mistake my guy in Sweden made a an error remapping MAF signal tables and it affected IAT signal tables, these are easy to get wrong when mapping either the MAF or IAT signsls from what I understand.
Anyway, blame is not the game here, the guy did his very best under the circumstances and he was doing me a favour trying to do a remap.
It's happy bloody days, 250+ BHP. It's party piece is max rev pulls in 2nd and then 3rd where it's hitting 90+ mph. I know it will be rapid in 4th too but I've got to be careful as I've no interest in having a conversation with the law. But just taking it easy and not bothering to change down gear. hit wide open throttle it still hits 9psi @ 2500 rpm with another 4psi to come. Stock was max 7 psi @5300 rpm.
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Last Edit: Apr 10, 2023 20:21:38 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Mar 13, 2023 22:01:20 GMT
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The first thing to do is read the OBD fault codes. A great starting point, if nothing more. I'd also advise you find a different Merc specialist.
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Last Edit: Mar 13, 2023 22:02:25 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Mar 12, 2023 21:15:38 GMT
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Sweet.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Mar 12, 2023 21:15:17 GMT
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Sweet.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Problems, problems!
I've been out road testing the car and fine tuning the adjustable MAF voltage clamp in conjunction with the new injectors. Something wasn't right regarding the AFR's, the AFR gauge was going max lean and staying there for 10 mins after just a quick burst of wide open throttle. Then the gauge would slowly return to normal while cruising. Anyway, after carrying out a few tests that failed to show anything wrong I guessed the wide band sensor was kaput. Now it's replaced the gauge is working normally thankfully as it's vital to know the AFR's.
Back out on road testing again and another problem arises, actually two problems. Going wide open throttle the traction control was intermittently kicking in, it should do if the car loses traction but not in 3rd gear at near max rev's on a very good dry road and the lost in traction could be repeated. Also the handling wasn't right, sharp steering inputs really unsettled the rear end, basically the rear was slower to react than the front. For all world you'd think one of the rear toe arms was loose/worn or there was a crack in the sub frame. Just for the hell of it, on the way home I upped the rear pressures from 33 to 40 psi and that made little difference.
I suspected the new Kumho's were not up to the job (no matter what the reviews said). I swapped the rear wheels with a spare pair that had nine year old well worn Bridgestone on then, bingo traction and handling problems solved. I'll take that as a win even if it means I'll have to buy another pair of new tyres. This time I'll make sure they have better grip and stiffer sidewalls. Back to Yokohama's more than likely, just hope they're available as they were not back in December for some reason.
I've a new Bosch MAF and o2 sensor on the way, once those arrive I'll be back road testing again adjusting the MAF voltage and fuel pressure after each drive until I'm happy with the live data.
All going well after that I plan on using the car as the daily driver from April or May onwards.
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Last Edit: Mar 10, 2023 9:12:04 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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It looks great, the red suits the car. Enjoy.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Feb 28, 2023 22:01:47 GMT
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I and no doubt other's consider the price madness. That's exactly what my mate said too and he owned and recently sold one of the best Escort Cosworths that ever came up for sale in recent years. No matter what way one cuts it, 600k buys several far better dream cars. Each to their own I suppose, especially if 600k is small change.
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Last Edit: Feb 28, 2023 23:47:38 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Feb 22, 2023 19:49:10 GMT
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Oh, I'll have a look on YT for sure.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Feb 22, 2023 18:17:10 GMT
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Watched this the other day. Top stuff - there are subtitles btw. Can't believe they got so much power out of the (somewhat) original motor. That was a really very enjoyable video. Thanks for sharing 👍
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Feb 12, 2023 22:01:25 GMT
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Brilliant! Bookmarked.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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