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Jan 26, 2024 22:26:21 GMT
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Getting a few miles on the car now and recorded the final piece of live data, MAF flow. 3rd gear MAF g/s 184. 4th gear MAF g/s 193. The expectations for max engine power was between 250-260bhp by those with experience in tuning these engines particularly by the guys who have extensive experience with highly modded SLK's and CLK's on the Continent, Australia and U.S.. Well, I'd say they're spot on judging by the way the car performs and the live data figures. It certainly performing even better than expected. It just proves what an improvement it can make to replace a worn timing chain (still within manufacturers operating parameters) and cleaning up the head, at a guess there was a gain of 25 BHP. Also, using this VE calculator confirms the expected BHP figures to be very realistic. Regardless, my target was always 200+BHP @ the wheels and 180 BHP/tonne which I believe I've achieved. Happy days!
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Last Edit: Jan 27, 2024 18:14:35 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Jan 23, 2024 22:20:15 GMT
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An update as such. I've only clocked up 60miles/100 kms partly in thanks to recent cold weather and a major storm over the last couple of days and there's another due. So far but all seems well. Live data parameters are spot on and I'm very happy, really happy with performance. Boost pressures are: 8+psi @ 2500 going wide open throttle and 13 psi max @ 6000 rpm. A major difference from the stock maximum of 7 psi. As usual there's a few smaller things I want to attend to and I want to experiment with a resistor for the MAF IAT signal. One other item on the list is to look into the induction side of the S/C, I'm still not happy with the set up including the air filter housing itself even having gone from the original to two modified versions. I think I'm on hiding to nothing as I want freer flowing cool induction air while keeping S/C noise to a minimum. I have ideas but that's it!
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Last Edit: Jan 23, 2024 22:22:20 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Jan 16, 2024 22:06:30 GMT
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Nothing constructive to say , but i'm really enjoying your tinkering! Please continue doing so!! Thanks dikkehemaworst. Well, I've nothing constructive to say either, which is probable a good thing as I've nothing to report, thankfully! I do have a belt tensioner pulley bearing gone but in the big scheme of things that's nothing. I will have some tinkering (that's a great word, it covers everything not to mention my screw up's) to do before I put the car on the road, hoping to improve the induction side of the supercharger, there's 'plan' in progress and I want to manipulate the IAT signal to the ECU, timing pull vs IAT is set very, very conservatively by Mercedes and consequently there's the potential loss of power when it's not justified. Will update in due course.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Well, all didn't go to plan. I had an oil leak from the sump gasket. Changed that and took the 'opportunity' to clean up the sump as it was oxidized and looking sorry for itself. Gave it a going over with a brass wire brush attached to the wheel death and also used the Dremel with fiber sanding wheels. Then a good clean and some VHT matt grey paint, nothing fancy, no bling just dull old grey. There was little cleaning to do on the inside and the oil pickup was spotless. I removed the oil level sender and gave that a good clean and tested it, and it works. Took it out for a blast, first time since September. Happy to report it driving better than ever. It will be interesting to watch the live data as the miles get put on, I'm expecting positives in all key parameters.
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Last Edit: Jan 15, 2024 1:25:37 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Good car, drive very well, great build quality and a sweet engine too. Looking forward to updates.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Is it running yet?
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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The 'plan' was to have the engine running on 1st day of this new year, fresh start and all that. Well, that didn't happen but I'm only six days behind. That's almost a miracle for me! I'm delighted to say I got the engine finished today and started. All good, let the fuel pump prime the system and it fired first turn of the key. Was initially rather noisy until the valve lifters filled with oil and the assembly lube got diluted which took a good five minutes an some rev'ing. After that it sounded good, no noise from the timing chain or lifters, the only things I can hear now are the injectors (normal), the fan when the clutch is engaged and the badly worn alternator bearings. Two things I've already noticed even without having driven it yet, the AFR is slightly leaner on idle and there's a deeper growl from the exhaust on start up and idle. Engine idle is slightly steadier, there as always an intermittent fluctuation of 50 RPM (really annoying when I notice it) it's still there but occurs far, far less and it's probably down to only 30 RPM now. Test drive within the next couple of days. Expecting good things with the timing back to factory new specification along with cleaned up valves and seats and the mild porting of the exhaust ports and header. It will be interesting if nothing else. Fingers crossed all goes well.
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Last Edit: Jan 7, 2024 23:40:17 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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The state of the exhaust tip, shocking! Looking great Dan and I think that's the first time I've seen a Pump with those wheels. Keep up the good work.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Slow going, mojo lacking a bit but getting there. The head is back on and the cams all timed up with new chain, tensioner and 3 x guides. The chain was worn, more worn than stretched I reckon. Inlet Cam was @ 27-28 degrees ATDC (factory spec 20-30), now 20-21 degrees. Exhaust Cam was @ 33 degrees ATDC (factory spec 25-35), now 25 degrees. If that improvement doesn't give me back 10-15BHP I'll eat my hat! Inlet Exhaust
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Dec 13, 2023 22:36:54 GMT
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Great progress. Here's a parts diagram for the gear linkage, there's a fair few parts. The main items to replace is kit No14 and bushes at each end of the three selector roads. If you do a bit of a search online there is people offering brass or Derlin replacement bushes, far better than M-B rubber one's. If you're handy doing some welding, a shorter shift is easily possible by cutting and adding 13-20mm to each of three levers (86,89,92), extended/modified one's are for sale on eBay.
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Last Edit: Dec 14, 2023 19:58:04 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Dec 13, 2023 22:33:22 GMT
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Great progress.
Here's a parts diagram for the gear linkage, there's a fair few parts. The main items to replace is kit No14 and bushes at each end of the three selector roads. If you do a bit of a search online there is people offering brass or Derlin replacement bushes, far better than M-B rubber one's. If you're handy doing some welding, a shorter shift is easily possible by cutting and adding 13-20mm to each of three levers, extended/modified one's are for sale on eBay.
ttps://webautocats.com/epc/mercedes/1/fg/201018/15c/26/030/
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Nov 24, 2023 22:02:00 GMT
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Last Edit: Nov 24, 2023 22:02:37 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Nov 22, 2023 18:38:26 GMT
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The block coolant drain valve was semi seized so I didn't tackle it until the exhaust manifold and head were removed to allow far better access. After a good hour's work with a blow torch, penetrating oil, socket and pullbar, vice grips with tube extension I got it out in one piece. Removed and cleaned the port of the left behind alloy valve threads with a homebrew thread chaser and used plenty of brake cleaner to remove any swarf. Used a generic M18 x1.5 gearbox/diff drain plug as a replacement for the original valve. Delighted to get this issue sorted now rather than trying to do it with engine back together. Original drain valve. Once removed. New plug and Dowty washer/seal (hope it works o.k.) And in it's new home. My 2p's advice on avoiding a situation like this which could have meant taking engine out if the valve broke which is very possible, don't attempt to open drain valve to carry out a coolant change. Especially if the car is old, the valve is aluminium and also located on the exhaust manifold side (hot side). I was lucky and really took my time just moving the valve 5mm either way at a time.
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Last Edit: Nov 23, 2023 12:00:23 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Nov 16, 2023 21:44:44 GMT
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What a nice change from the popular red. Personally, I'd get it up and running especially as it has a fresh engine, fit decent tyres, MOT and give it a good valet, polish & shine. I doubt the way it is doing it any favours to realize a reasonable price. But, that's just my view. Good luck with the sale. P.s. This might advert might give you some possible ideas on pricing yours. www.carandclassic.com/car/C1619221
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Last Edit: Nov 16, 2023 22:46:04 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Nov 15, 2023 21:31:55 GMT
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Nov 10, 2023 22:23:42 GMT
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Had the day off today, so I went sanding & polishing. All the exhaust ports are finished, well finished as far as I'm concerned. They're far from perfect but for a first time effort I think there're passible. No doubt somebody with actual experience would disagree and probably rightly so too. Next up, is to clean the head 100% and fit valve seals and refit the valves.
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Last Edit: Nov 10, 2023 22:24:13 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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A little progress.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Decided to see if I could do something with the exhaust ports. Just a bit of very mild porting, as I've no real experience. As can be seen from the photo this is a typical port, all four are very similar. The black outline is were the exhaust manifold gasket actually mates to the head, so anywhere from the outside edge of the line can be removed. I think that's a reasonable amount of material overall. And more can be removed further inside heading towards the valve seats. I'll go easy there as I've no idea how much can be removed. Started doing some porting. I've opened up the exhaust ports to the manifold by approx 12% in diameter and back into the ports just before the port divider which is approx 10mm. As for the rest of the ports to the valve guides I'm only sanding rather than grinding leaving the ports polished with all the casing marks removed. I've decided not to port the inlet side, to my untrained eye it looks good with a nice machined surface to promote atomization of air & fuel and there's not much meat to remove were the ports meets the inlet manifold. Also, I reckon if there's any real gains to be had it's on the exhaust side as the S/C does the work to get air in but on the exhaust side any possible back pressure should be reduced as much as possible. Now, I may not make any significant gains from porting the exhaust side but my view is it won't do any harm and can only aid expelling the exhaust gases, plus it costs nothing to do really except time which is fine, and the bonus is, I'm out of sight of Mrs Woofwoof! Initial porting. Decided while I was at it to lightly port all of the exhausts rather than just sanding polishing. I took it easy as I just don't know how much can be removed without doing damage. But I go rid of the casting lines and improved the valve bowls and got rid of a few sharp edges plus overall the ports are larger with diameter increase of 1-1.5mm Ideally, to do maximize the porting an old head chopped up showing the cross section would've been ideal. Just sanding & polishing left to do which will again help flow. I know the photos are curse word, it's difficult to get real clarity with a camera phone and average lighting. At long last my straight edge arrived on a second attempt. I originally ordered an ''engineers straight edge'' as it was called but it never arrived which turned out a bit of blessing. After another online search I came across steel Gauge Plate or Ground Flat Stock as it's also known. This has a tolerance as good as the ''engineers'' steel straight edge (thickness: +0.05mm/-0.00mm per meter) and better still it arrived within a few days and as a bonus was 1/3rd the price of the first straight edge I ordered from a non premium brand. Checked the head just incase at several points, all good 6 x 40 x 500mm
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Here's a photo of how far the timing was out. That's 27 degrees, from the factory it should @ 20 degrees. 15-20 bhp right there! I had a look at the exhaust manifold, not great being candid. The pipes are welded from inside the flange rather than the usual welding on the outside. Possibly done like this to make the manifold stronger as these don't tend to have an issues with cracking. This is typical photo of all the exhaust ports, protrusions into the pipe and well past the manifold gasket. Another issue with the manifold its pinch point at the flange to the downpipe, no great especially when running more power. But there's little I can do about it myself other than buy an aftermarket manifold of unknown quality. So, I'll leave well alone. After doing some die grinding (a bit more to do) I made some progress on manifold exhaust ports, matched to the gasket but still just inside the pipes the welds can be clearly seen. The only option to really clean up the ports is to have the pipes welded to the flange from the outside and then die grind away the excess inside. I'll think on it.
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Last Edit: Nov 9, 2023 22:22:24 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Good to see you're still at this yoke. A bit of a sleeper, especially with the MO plate Ha,ha. Thanks. Yeah, still at it mainly in the winter time, helps to kill these early dark evenings. It is a bit of a sleeper alright nobody has a clue, common consensus is it's a C180/200 or more likely a 220 diesel with the MO plate. Being candid that suits me fine and better again I don't get any notice when travelling from one coast to another while making quick progress. Sometimes I upset eagerly driven 320 or 520D's without trying, I've had few laughs. Hopefully it will be back to it's best or better than ever after I finish up with the head job and few other modifications. 250-260 @ the fly but anything over my original target of 200+ @ the wheels, I'll be a happy bunny. The torque spread should be as good as ever too.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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