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Sept 26, 2016 18:36:27 GMT
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I'm slowly coming around to the idea that to make the car I want (and can afford) I'll have to build it from scratch. I'm a mechanical design engineer by day and been a petrolhead for decades, how hard can it be? I've got an idea for running gear, I'm working out the chassis design and trying to figure out a way to make the bodyshell. I had hoped to make it from mostly flat parts as the Burlington Arrow but even if I can get the body tub sorted out I'll still need quite a few other parts. Front wings Rear wings Running boards Scuttle Front apron Radiator shell are the first ones that come to mind. The problem with the body tub is the curve as the body panels fold from vertical to horizontal and it also follows the top of the doors. I've got a way around this but it's quite complicated so maybe I'm better off doing a body tub in fibreglass and incorporating the scuttle in it. This looks like a good way of getting a bodyshell (this is a Suffolk Sportscars SS100) Assuming I can source the basic parts to take a mould from, but assuming they'll be a bit rough, what kind of cost am I looking at for a fibreglass mould and a set or two of parts? Gareth
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Sept 16, 2016 20:51:25 GMT
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I've been using a Phase 1 Volvo V70 diesel for the last year, it's doing 50mpg (as it's a manual gearbox) and it'll do all the usual handy stuff that a big Volvo estate does. The 5 cylinder 2.5 engine is the same as the Audi A6, the Audi manual is a 6 speed while the Volvo is 5 speed so the Audi gets a bit better mpg.
Having said that, at a ripe old age a Volvo is often more reliable, or maybe it's been owned by old duffers. The 2 biggest surprises are:
1. The stereo is absolutely brilliant. Really, it's one of the best you'll ever hear in a car. 2. The engine is nice and fruity when you hoof it.
For simplicity I'd go for a Volvo 850 or early (Phase 1) V70. Later V70s are probably better in every single way except for being easy to fix.
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3D printing something that big would be incredibly expensive, I've just done a part 350mm x 80 x 60mm and it was £150 printed as a strong material. I guess you could buy a cheap FDM printer and make it in sections, but that's got it's own problems too. How about foam with fibreglass over the top? But I agree with the posters above, unless you're desperate to learn a new method of making stuff, it's easier and cheaper to find an existing wing. www.rqriley.com/frp-foam.htmfiberglassblades.com/Process_FF.html
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I've had a few Beetles and their main problem is that they take a huge amount of neglect from owners who think chrome engine trim is more important than a good quality exhaust. So they keep running but get less reliable, less nice to drive and are a constant drain on your pocket.
But, if you have a good one it's really nice. The driving experience is sufficiently different to modern cars to make it interesting, learning how to get the best out of one is good fun and despite what all the bar room experts say they can be hustled along quite quickly (relatively) and be an involving drive.
They also have a feeling of integrity and honesty, the car supplies the essential bits to be a car and nothing else. The only other feeling I had that with was a Land Rover and that makes ownership a nice thing.
We can deal with the usual comments here: "It's slow" Well, 40ish bhp isn't much and accelerating up steep hills won't be done in anything above second gear but other cars are slow too. An Austin A30 is slower, so is a 2CV and so is a Ferrari compared to a motorbike. So what? When I had my last Beetle I also owned a 170mph bike, both were fun on their own terms.
"It's got no heater" Not exactly, there's usually no fan assistance for the heater (although you can get fan assistance in the scuttle box on some cars, or rig up an additional fan in the back). The heater works differently, airflow is based on the engine speed so no faffing about at 30mph in 4th gear, thanks. As the inside of the car is well sealed you also need to crack open a window to encourage airflow. And many aftermarket heat exchangers (part of the exhaust) are rubbish so shop around for good ones. You can also fit an Eberspacher petrol heater for ultimate toastyness.
"It doesn't handle" Yes, it really does. A bit like on a motorbike, if you brake going into a corner you're very low on grip but that just means you need to drive it properly. Good tyres, correct front end alignment and you'll be fine within its limits. 1302s and 1303s came with semi trailing arm rear suspension which is a bit more forgiving than the older cars with swing axles, but any rear engined car needs more care than a front wheel drive car. With FWD you can lob it into a corner, hit the brakes and it'll probably be ok, you can't do that with a Beetle. However if your driving is smooth you'll be just as fast. Here's a completely standard one in 1963 against a Mini that every bar room expert knows handles well. Watch from 5:20
Own a bad one and it'll turn you off forever, which is probably where some people get their negative opinions. But a good one is a nice thing to have and they're not difficult to fix at all.
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Last Edit: Aug 29, 2016 8:22:22 GMT by garethj
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Aug 21, 2016 14:22:07 GMT
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I think you should get the Pantera you want. What's the reason not to?
One car that hasn't come up as an alternative is something from Venturi, the French manufacturer. They changed through the ages, with and without rear wings but if your criteria is for it to be a Pantera, buy a Pantera. The Venturi is an attractive car, quirky and unusual too. But it's like walking into an Apple store and asking for an Android phone - you know what you want so stop looking at the wrong things ;-)
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I worked for a Tier 1 automotive supplier in the mid '90s and it was a very interesting experience. I remember talking about FMEAs which is a quality improvement method, Failure Mode and Effects Analysis and being told that Rover called them F**K Me, Everything's Alright.
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A question I've been pondering recently, is why nobody else has started production of an E Type kit. I know the Eagle E Types are around but they're very different.
I'm working on the design of an MG TC kit as a real one is £25k, I reckon it's possible to make one for a lot less but of course an authentic looking kit will always trail the value of a real one.
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Sept 17, 2015 5:32:25 GMT
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I was confused by "Sensor minus"
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Sept 13, 2015 19:27:34 GMT
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Yes, I think the problem is that the gauge wiring is different to that diagram. Think I've made sense of it though!
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Sept 12, 2015 11:42:47 GMT
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Can anyone help with the retro fit of an oil pressure gauge? The sender and gauge connections are below, the gauge needs 2 feeds from the sender (sensor - and +) but it also needs a feed from both connections of the warning light. The sender has 2 connections, Gauge and Warning Light. Is one of these, "Sensor -" or is it the wrong sender for the gauge? The ideal solution is to remove the car's original warning light sender and replace with this new one that does the gauge and warning light together.
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Sept 11, 2015 18:59:57 GMT
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Sept 11, 2015 18:42:08 GMT
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I've used 3D printing to make 1:32 slot cars for the last 4 years. For bodyshells I get the 3D CAD data and then stitch the surfaces together so the mesh is watertight. That means the surface data can then be 3D printed This is where you need to know the limitations of the process; pretty much you can have fine detail or high strength. Fine detail also costs money, so for bodyshells it's just not cost effective to race the 3D printed parts. That's why I make a silicone mould and resin cast them, the model equivalent of fibrelgassing a replica for cost. For the chassis, I designed it to have steering and suspension (because leaning and opposite-lock around corners is cool, right?) and then packed it all into the tightest space because the cost of the parts is the volume of it. The parts get separated (like cutting them off an Airfix kit's sprue) and then built up It all works like this I'm harbouring an idea to scratchbuild a full size car but right now the problem is that 3D printed cost is down to the XYZ volume on the machine's bed. Even using it to make a mould to mould vacform or fibreglass parts is expensive for something like a wing panel. A shame, because sending this to the printer is very appealing
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Sept 3, 2015 13:09:03 GMT
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Thanks, I've searched through SpridgetGuru's site and haven't found much beyond a basic chassis layout as used on the lubrication diagram. What I'd really like is more like this but I FAILZ at the internet. The car I'd like to make is a TC And because I'm a design engineer by day, I thought I'd try and plan it out in CAD rather than cut up a Midget and stand in the middle of the garage with a look of despair. Don't suppose you've seen the side view of that Frogeye in a larger image? Although the earlier cars have quarter eliptic rear suspension and mine would be made from a later car
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Sept 2, 2015 18:50:31 GMT
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I've got an idea to design a kit car based on a Spridget, but to get any more than the doodling stage I need some measurements off the suspension.
If there's an owner who can take some measurements of suspension positions I'd be very grateful, I'd be happy to send a few virtual pints from PayPal over as payment.
The plan is to design a chassis which picks up on the Midget suspension so I need
1. Height of rear shackles from the ground 2. Height of hub centre from the ground (yeah, this is basically the tyre radius but just to make sure the rest of the measurements are level) 3. Width between rear spring shackles 4. Height of front chassis rails from the ground (to the underside of the chassis rails) 5. Width between outside of front chassis rails.
PM me if you can help.
Gareth
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Jul 28, 2015 21:33:28 GMT
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Why not a herald chassis? No need for I've if you're careful It's too wide, Herald based kitcars don't look right. And doesn't the world stop turning if you use Triumph parts to make an MG? The chassis of a rascal etc is high and you will sit very high in the car - unless you plan to remake the chassis. The steering would need a rethink. Convert to a regular rack n pinion. If I was you a mx5 should be best. Separate the body off and you have all the running gear you need. Narrow the front and rear subframes if you need. Ben I'm coming around to not using a Rascal chassis, you're right about the height but also they're only a ladder frame from behind the cab so I'd still need to fabricate a front chassis with all its suspension pick up points and engine mounts. An MX5 is really too wide and narrowing it is very difficult. A Suzuki Cappuccino is a possibility but the front suspension is struts and the front of the engine is ahead of the axle line.
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Last Edit: Jul 28, 2015 21:39:32 GMT by garethj
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Jul 28, 2015 17:20:04 GMT
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The track width of a Bedford Rascal is within an inch of an MG TC, old small cars were also ridiculously small.
A kitten was my first thought but they're thin on the ground now.
I'm wondering if a front end & driveline from a '70s MG Midget is a better idea, even though I'd then need a complete chassis.
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Jul 27, 2015 21:22:25 GMT
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Today's hair brained scheme is to take something like this to create something like this I know there have been all sorts of kits using Triumph front ends and Marinas too, but I want something the right width so a Kei van could hit the spot. No need for mega bhp either, with spindly spokes, narrow tyres, low weight and no windscreen 60bhp will seem like a rocket ship. If it works out, a little van can donate its entire front and rear ends, engine & gearbox and possibly some of the chassis. I know the Suzuki Supercarry engine is canted over, does anyone have a tape measure they can run across it? Any other thoughts are appreciated!
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Jul 26, 2015 17:06:01 GMT
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I went on yesterday, weather was reasonable and I had a great time with my mates.
Those Lolas were fantastic; for one race we were at the corner before the start/finish straight and the noise of four of them accelerating hard was ferocious!
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Fantastic, and it's good to see a Firebird that's not a TransAm.
But I was always a sucker for the Rockford Files and his Firebird Esprit.
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