lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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May 16, 2007 20:20:23 GMT
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Hi. Does anyone know what this coolant header tank is from? It has a British Leyland logo on top. I need a new one as this has split. Apologies for the appalling photographs. If anyone has one for cheap please get in touch. Thanks.
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Last Edit: May 17, 2007 19:17:31 GMT by lebowski
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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Apr 16, 2007 11:14:06 GMT
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I have an Avenger as do a few people on here. Not an estate though. I like it.
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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Yep, good luck with it. I've rebooked my aptitute test down there for t'end of the month.
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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I doubt driveshafts are in balance to begin with.
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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I got this a while ago from somewhere about Easytherm. Can't remember where. 1.) Find the MSS .s19 file on your computer. To make > things easy, copy this file into the ET folder. > > 2.) Hook up the serial connection to your MS box. > > 3.) Start the EasyTherm program (make sure you have > ET4d, most recent), and key in your sensor values if > not using defaults. > > 4.) Select 'Custom' for code type, and select > appropriate com port. > > 5.) Click 'Write'. You will be prompted to select > the .s19 file to modify. Select your MSnS file. The > new .s19 file and associated .inc files will be > created at this time. > > 6.) Power up MS with the bootloader jumper shorted on > the board. *** Be sure power supply is 12-15vdc *** > > 7.) Click 'Download'. You will be prompted to > power-cycle the MS. Other than that it is automatic. > Within a few seconds you should again have flashing > lights on the stim. > > Don't forget to copy the new .inc files to your > MegaTune folder. The new .s19 is named > oldname_mod.s19. You may want to save it somewhere as > well. Also, pull the boot jumper off if you haven't > already, or you will re-enter bootloader mode next > time. I also found this link quite useful: megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/setup.htmlHope it helps, I've got all this fun to come shortly.
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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175's on 9J sounds like far too much to me. Would've thought it's too much for 8J to be honest.
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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Jan 23, 2007 21:06:35 GMT
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I think that those style of bikes near the top of the page look good....until someone sits on them and the ridiculous riding position becomes apparent.
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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Jan 23, 2007 10:15:22 GMT
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Electric windows in a davrian seems a strange combination to me. It's not exactly a practical car!
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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Jan 18, 2007 19:08:25 GMT
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My Clan exhaust has four bean tins with healthy dollops of Hermetite on it and it passed the MOT fine.
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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Jan 17, 2007 14:40:52 GMT
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Sorry about the disgraceful picture but a flange to mate to the turbo needs welding on. If it's a cast iron manifold you may have problems.
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Last Edit: Jan 17, 2007 16:30:53 GMT by lebowski
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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Jan 17, 2007 14:36:56 GMT
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My Pops and I cut the swirl pot and high pressure in tank pump out of a Scorpio and fitted it into my tank. The swirl pot was spot welded into the bottom of the tank and the pump mounting part (cut out of the Scorpio) will be soldered into a hole in the top of the tank.
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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Jan 12, 2007 12:31:24 GMT
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Is that the road to Rhossili? I used to go down there all the time in my Imp and Avenger with the surfboards on the roof.
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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Bikes are indeed ridiculously fast. I think when you get to the higher end of the scale though cars are faster, ie Turbo Radicals and F1 etc., probably due to a very small tyre contact patch on a bike.
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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Dec 20, 2006 21:31:51 GMT
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The pistons will not compress the water (you can't compress a liquid), but the conrods and the valves will probably be dead, and maybe the crank.
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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Dec 20, 2006 21:10:27 GMT
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I'm sure you already know this but there are bellhousings available to connect VW boxes to the Alfa engine.
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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Dec 22, 2006 11:07:47 GMT
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Am doing. It's nearly done now. Just gotta finish making the inlet manifold and wire up the megasquirt really, then fit it all. Got myself a Scorpio in tank fuel pump yesterday. I'll start a proper thread when I've got a few more pictures.
Cheers
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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Dec 21, 2006 16:58:09 GMT
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Ok, cheers. The combustion chamber could be likened to a pair of rich tea's sandwiched together I'll probably leave the cam as it is for the moment, with the possibility of changing it for the milder one at a later date. Incidentally, the car will be running on throttle bodies, fuel injection and ignition management rather than the single carb and dizzy, so I'll be able to alter ignition timing as much as I want. Thanks for the comments, anymore welcome.
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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Dec 21, 2006 14:24:46 GMT
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Of course my pumping losses will also be greater by starting the spark earlier. So many things to think about
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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Dec 21, 2006 14:23:19 GMT
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Cheers for the replies. BlownImp, I understand what you're saying and I agree, but I've read in a few places that it may be better to lower compression than to retard ignition when trying to avoid detonation. This is because the location of peak pressure in the cylinder needs to be around 14 degrees ATDC to do maximum work on the piston. The following passages are taken from here if you want to read it all: www.germanmotorcars.com/Detonation.htm"There is another factor that engineers look for to quantify combustion. It is called "location of peak pressure (LPP)." It is measured by an in-cylinder pressure transducer. Ideally, the LPP should occur at 14 degrees after top dead center. Depending on the chamber design and the burn rate, if one would initiate the spark at its optimum timing (20 degrees BTDC, for example) the burn would progress through the chamber and reach LPP, or peak pressure at 14 degrees after top dead center. LPP is a mechanical factor just as an engine is a mechanical device. The piston can only go up and down so fast. If you peak the pressure too soon or too late in the cycle, you won't have optimum work. Therefore, LPP is always 14 degrees ATDC for any engine." "Production engines are optimized for the type or grade of fuel that the marketplace desires or offers. Engine designers use the term called MBT ( Minimum spark for Best Torque) for efficiency and maximum power; it is desirable to operate at MBT at all times. For example, let's pick a specific engine operating point, 4000 RPM, what, 98 kPa MAP. At that operating point with the engine on the dynamometer and using non-knocking fuel, we adjust the spark advance. There is going to be a point where the power is the greatest. Less spark than that, the power falls off, more spark advance than that, you don't get any additional power. Now our engine was initially designed for premium fuel and was calibrated for 20 degrees of spark advance. Suppose we put regular fuel in the engine and it spark knocks at 20 degrees? We back off the timing down to 10 degrees to get the detonation to stop. It doesn't detonate any more, but with 10 degrees of spark retard, the engine is not optimized anymore. The engine now suffers about a 5-6 percent loss in torque output. That's an unacceptable situation. To optimize for regular fuel engine designers will lower the compression ratio to allow an increase in the spark advance to MBT. The result, typically, is only a 1-2 percent torque loss by lowering the compression. This is a better tradeoff. Engine test data determines how much compression an engine can have and run at the optimum spark advance." Now the decision whether to lower compression based on the above statements is dependant on the combustion chamber burn rate of the engine in question (Hillman Avenger all iron OHV in this case). Since I haven't run the engine yet I don't know whether it will suffer detonation or not with the proposed boost levels (12psi at first). However, it has a biscuit shaped combustion chamber which probably doesn't have a very fast burn rate. This means that it would need more ignition advance to burn all the fuel in the chamber, increasing the risk of detonation as the burning fuel has more time to heat up and compress, therefore a lower compression ratio may be required. Phew! I got a bit carried away there. Any more views welcome. Cheers
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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Dec 21, 2006 11:40:24 GMT
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I realise the point about overlap, but for the moment I'm just talking about the inlets only. The later that the inlet valve closes, the less effective stroke there is left to compress the charge, because the piston starts moving up the bore after BDC. So with a cam that closes the inlets 78 degrees after BDC, that means that the inlet is still open for 78 degrees while the piston is coming up the bore.
If I choose a cam which closes the inlets nearer to BDC, then I believe that less mixture will be pushed out the inlet by the piston, and overall I'll be left with more charge in the cylinder to do work.
However, with the longer duration (78 degree) cam, the turbo can be pushing charge into the cylinders for a longer time, but once BDC is reached, the cylinder is effectively getting smaller. It's kind of like the goalposts are moving, and may have to be a suck it and see situation.
Cheers
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