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Nov 23, 2009 19:13:05 GMT
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My Dad is thinking about this Hillman, www.carandclassic.com/car/C122443/He has asked me to go and have a good look at it, but I know nothing of these cars and considering the fact that I just bought the worlds shittest SJ (now mostly sorted) for three times what it was worth I am anxious to get this right. Its not for sure he wants it but I guess its up to me to decide if its what it seems and take it to his place in Brittany if he goes for it. (yikes) I Need to know if there's any stuff to look out for on this motor if anyone can help. Cheers. Mike
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1985 Bedford CF2 camper 1991 Volvo 240 Turbo
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Nov 23, 2009 21:50:09 GMT
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ok heres the basics....
get underneath and look EVERYWHERE.. its an old rootes motor they rust.. it says it has had sills, have a look see if you can see if they were full sills or just cover sills over the old ones (normal giveaway is a funny shape to the lower edge where it is lipped to the old ones on cover sills) open bonnet and have a quick looksee on the tops of the wheel arch tubs, run a hand down the back see if its been waxed well or they rot out and its a pain to do, engine if its original 1600 will have dipstick coming out from the sump NOT the block.. if dipstick comes out the block its probably had a 1725 lobbed in but this is no bad thing. engine should have at least 45psi oil pressure at tickover from cold.. dropping to 20-30 when hot at tickover.. all over times expect 40-50 psi when running fast, have a quick look under the motor, its not unusual for these motors to leak oil from the front and back as they don't have oil seals fitted at either end of the crank but rely on centrifugal forces to stop them leaking so they drip a bit when turned off, clutch should be light as its hydraulic.brakes should pull up pretty well as they are disc/drum with a servo.. gearbox depending on age might not have a syncro on first so expect a crunch if you come down from second to first on test drive (and they sing in first a fair bit if its the early box lol) to be honest thats top dosh for one of these and I would hope its as mint as it looks...
rest of things are just common sense.. peek about underneath see if any of the rubbers are hanging out.. theres rubber top an bottom of both front wishbones.. look for wet shock absorders.. check inside the oil filler cap for mayo and check in the rad to see if its antifreezed up (mega important if it has an aluminium cylinder head-cast iron head has pushrod tubes either side of the spark plugs so easy to differentiate) personally for the cash id stump the extra 50 quid or whatever it is an get the AA to go over it if your at all worried...
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Nov 23, 2009 22:19:17 GMT
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£7.5k is a LOT of money for a Super Minx drop-top. PC's price guide puts a Condition 1 car at £3250. Even a concours one (and I noticed that they merely described the body as 'straight and smart', not 'concours') would surely not cost over twice that?
I'd say £5k as an absolute maximum, if it drives as nice as it looks (and it does look spectactular in that red), but certainly not seven and a half big ones.
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Nov 23, 2009 22:51:01 GMT
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agreed brian.. hell his old man cold have my sceptre for 1200 lol
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I was looking at these, bits I got told - as above - then read up about sill replacement. A proper job needs the wings off, as the sills should run the full length of the car and behind the wings. A quick fix will have left the wings on and the new sills will stop at the wing. Very friendly owners club, mechanical parts seem ok to find, some trim pieces are unique to soft tops and are hard to find. How much £££
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Thats great, thanks guys.
Looks like I will be going next week now as I'm too busy this week but I'll read through that lot again before I go.
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1985 Bedford CF2 camper 1991 Volvo 240 Turbo
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