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Seems that the Nissan Turbo engine is great for tuning, obviously found in lots of drift cars etc but I can't seem to find much info about dropping one in a classic? Seems to have been in Datsun 510's overseas but can't find enough info to know how complex a job it is. Seems to be potentially cheap £/bhp and has been suggested on here before. Configured to run longitudanal in a RWD set up so that is one thing in it's favour. Anyone in the UK specialise in these? What engine management can be used? If anyone knows anything, has any links to info, it would be much appreciated.
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CIH
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,466
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Depends on what you want to put it in I suppose. Oh and the earlier 1.8 16v Turbo (CA18DET in Nissan speak) is probably better for conversions as they're cheaper and have plenty of potential.
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the CA18DET is just a SR20 with less displacement, mounting are the same, gearboxes match and power potential is the same. Budget is the difference, a full 200sx donar car can be had for as little as £150, where as the SR20 S14 is still asking big figures.
Wiring is easy, most standalone ECu will work, or the stock nissan loom is easy to re-use.
Fitment, they are quite tall engines but go in most things with a bit of work.
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It is to go in my RWD Triumph Toledo. It already has Sprint running gear so it is not quite as inappropriate as it sounds. People have fitted Rover V8's, Cosworth's, XE's which seem to comparable in height? So, do you reckon this is a good route as opposed to the more common Zetec, Vauxhall XE or even Cosworth YB route? The engine itself is a lot cheaper for good power it seems. If the engine comes out of a S14 or whatever, I presume the stock sump is okay for other RWD set up's?
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Been done before: It's a lot cheaper for 'good' power because it's turbocharged, as opposed to the Zetecs/XEs which are as standard naturally aspirated. Don't forget that in addition to the standard swap issues, you'll have to think very carefully about turbine location, intercooler fitment and appropriate cooling for both the engine and oil. Getting a turbocharged engine into a Dolomite (same as the Toledo) bay can sometimes be pain because the turbo wants to be where the suspension turret is - but manifolds are not difficult to adapt (or have made) and you may even find one off the shelf that suits your application. It will be quite cramped (as you can see) as with all ancilleries and cooling packs the engine as a whole ends up bigger than you'd probably expect. All do-able though, if you throw enough time, money and effort at it (in varying amounts ). So it does "fit" - can't tell you how much work is involved though. No room for the heater blower though in the one shown - but that could be worked around.... Put a smallblock Ford in it. Much more entertaining ;D
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Last Edit: Apr 6, 2009 12:54:16 GMT by Lewis
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Wow! Thanks for the pics Lewis. I didn't realise from our previous conversations that someone had actually put one in the Dolomite, I thought it was just potential. Must admit, seeing that bay makes me scared, a lot of work as you say. Not seriously considered a V8........tempting but seen it as too much work/money compared to a 4 pot, oh but the noise, that would be worth it!!
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Last Edit: Apr 6, 2009 14:11:33 GMT by Lewis
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the CA18DET is just a SR20 with less displacement, SR20 is a different generation of engine, CA18 is more closely related to the RB engines found in the Nissan Skyline R32 onwards, but with two less cylinders. The reason all the mountings are the same is both found their way into the S13 180sx/200sx (and silvia too I think), early JDM and uk spec cars had CA18s, but the JDM cars got SR20DETs, like the 180sx I used to own. Power is similar but the CA18 is iron block and the SR20 is alloy block, making the SR20 lighter. The SR20 is generally regarded as being a bit more reliable and robust for tuning purposes.
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CA18DET's are cheap cos rthe bottom ends are made of chocolate, get em rebuilt if you go for it, I'd go for a bomb proof Chain Drive SR20DET (just watch you don't get a transverse on from a GTi-R and if you do give me a buzz lol).
oh and a CA18 can cope with 275hp on stock internals and th SR20 350hp on stock rods n pistons.
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Nissan Laurel SOLD BMW E34 Diesel SOLD Toyota Soarer 4.0 V8 SOLD Audi A4 1995 TDI SOLD Peugeot 205 1.9 TD SOLD Lexus IS300 SC
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Mike D
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,196
Club RR Member Number: 57
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CA18DET's are cheap cos rthe bottom ends are made of chocolate, get em rebuilt if you go for it, I'd go for a bomb proof Chain Drive SR20DET (just watch you don't get a transverse on from a GTi-R and if you do give me a buzz lol). oh and a CA18 can cope with 275hp on stock internals and th SR20 350hp on stock rods n pistons. CA bottom ends aren't made of chocolate, the early death for most of them is because the majority are well over 100K now, they've fallen into the un-looked after not properly maintained stage of life, then got razzed around a drift track on the redline. It's not really suprising they knacker up! There seems to be just as much of an issue from SR top ends with the variable valve gubbins playing up..
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the CA18DET is just a SR20 with less displacement, SR20 is a different generation of engine, CA18 is more closely related to the RB engines found in the Nissan Skyline R32 onwards, but with two less cylinders. The reason all the mountings are the same is both found their way into the S13 180sx/200sx (and silvia too I think), early JDM and uk spec cars had CA18s, but the JDM cars got SR20DETs, like the 180sx I used to own. Power is similar but the CA18 is iron block and the SR20 is alloy block, making the SR20 lighter. The SR20 is generally regarded as being a bit more reliable and robust for tuning purposes. Yeah, SR20 and CA18 are totally different! I'd rather have the SR20 for definite! But then, if I was going J it'd be: 2JZ, 1JZ, RB20 (not particularly powerful, but cheap and fine in a little light car!), RB25 or RB26 generally. All pretty reliable and tuneable engines. All are expesive bar the RB20 though! Cheap turbo option for me these days - saab 2.3 turbo.
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The journey of 1000 miles starts with a single coffee.
I don't like coffee!
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But then, if I was going J it'd be: 2JZ, 1JZ, RB20 (not particularly powerful, but cheap and fine in a little light car!), RB25 or RB26 generally. All pretty reliable and tuneable engines. All are expesive bar the RB20 though!. All very long and relatively heavy though,tight for retro engine bays and hang over the front wheels giving plenty understeer.
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30psi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,024
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If you're on a budget use a CA18DET. Making some sensible, scrapyard style mods to it will see 250bhp. Good on the wallet.
If you fancy spending a bit more you could go SR20DET. It's a different type of engine completely to the CA18DET. Both mechanically and the way the power is delivered.
Both engines are actually known for having marzipan big end issues. The reasons are simply down to maintenance. The CA is worse because the poorly designed dipstick will fool most amateurs in to thinking the engine is ok on oil. Drain the sump, and the dipstick still can read oil lol. Bottom line is you get what you pay for. Avoid any engine that is cheap. Remove the rocker covers and inspect how clean they are inside. The SR's have issues with the top end running dry due to blocked spray bars.
Regarding engine looms, the S13 and S14 have very similar setups. You need to study the wiring diagrams a bit and rob the right bits of a donor to make it work. Some people have found this very difficult though.
I'm a CA18DET fan (see my bluebird thread), but am realistic to the fact that the SR20 makes a very sensible engine choice for those seeking a good torquey 200+bhp.
If you have £1,000 to spend, and want a simple drop in 200bhp, you really can't go wrong with the SR20.
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1962 Ford Thunderbird 6.4L
1981 Datsun Bluebird SSS CA18DET
1981 Datsun Bluebird SSS SR20DE
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But then, if I was going J it'd be: 2JZ, 1JZ, RB20 (not particularly powerful, but cheap and fine in a little light car!), RB25 or RB26 generally. All pretty reliable and tuneable engines. All are expesive bar the RB20 though!. All very long and relatively heavy though,tight for retro engine bays and hang over the front wheels giving plenty understeer. True, all the engines I mentioned are 6 pots, not 4 pots. Apart from the saab lump. Well spotted that man! 4 pot J N/A would be Honda for me...
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The journey of 1000 miles starts with a single coffee.
I don't like coffee!
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CIH
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,466
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but they too aren't cheap. I quite fancy a SR20E (ie non-turbo) tricked to about 200bhp with fancy throttles/bike carbs and what not.
Ofcourse if you're really skint you could get the 8v CA18ET as found in Silvia and Bluey turbos. Intercool it and with a bit of luck you'd be near 200bhp.
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Last Edit: Apr 6, 2009 21:41:31 GMT by CIH
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Saab 2.3 (again)? Pretty easy 300bhp...
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The journey of 1000 miles starts with a single coffee.
I don't like coffee!
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Saab 2.3 (again)? Pretty easy 300bhp... What's the rwd box availability like?
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manta/carlton i beleave check out ppc mags escort for saab 2.3 turbo info.
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theres more to life than mpg & to much power is just enough.
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