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Pretty sure I've seen a few bike carb'd motors on here so thought it a good place to ask. I have a 1.6 cvh lump which will be running Yamaha R6 38mm carbs hopefully once I fit it in my 1982 1.3GL Escort. I read a "how to" for a Vauxhall 2ltr XE lump where R1 (40mm) carbs were used and the main jets were drilled out to 1.8mm. It was noted that the same conversion for the 1.6 XE should have the jets drilled to 1.65mm but this is using slightly bigger carbs than mine so I'm wondering what size I need to drill mine to or indeed replace them with if that makes sense ? I'm curious as to how others have arrived at the optimum jet size for their conversions. Is it just a case of trial & error or must I get my car to a rolling road somehow ?
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life's short & it's hard, like a body building elf.
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ive converted two cars to run bike carbs , ive spoken to bogg bros a number of times , both my conversions have been zetecs 1,8 and 2,0 the 2 ltrs is on blackbird carbs with 165 mains, the1.8 is on r6 carbs and has 1.60 mains ,the 1.8 runs fine like this the 2.0 ltr inho is a bit rich ie no choke for cold starting ,idealy it should be run on a rolling road ,but i would sugest a good start would be around the 150 mark
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Exactly what I needed to hear from someone who isn't just guessing ! Thank you. ;D Whilst I'm on the subject, isn't there a small amount of adjustment to be had via the circlip needle height too ?
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life's short & it's hard, like a body building elf.
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yes and make sure you blank the hole directly inline with the needle otherwise they will just die when you rev it stick a little bit of tape on first if you are not sure which ones
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Is it a vacuum hole or something ? The tiny hole on the intake mouth at the bottom yes ? & do I leave it blanked off for ever then ? Think I'm due a call to Bogg bros !
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life's short & it's hard, like a body building elf.
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yes blank it of once yove identified it its got somthing to do with leaning out the carbs at higher revs on the bikes , it wont work on a car engine (prob somthing to do with revs being lower)i think from memory there are 3 holes its the one directly inline with the needles
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Last Edit: Feb 6, 2009 20:35:17 GMT by maskedavenger
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When i set mine up i went to a 200 main jet to get it running right. i've got R6 carbs on a 1360cc TU engine.
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did you blank the hole inline with the needle
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There's a lot more to sorting bike carbs that the main jet size, which only comes into play at roughly 3/4 to full throttle and doesn't affect fuelling elsewhere. You also have the pilot circuit, jet needle, emulsion tube, slide spring, and air bleeds, at the least.
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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bobs right there there on the pilot jets up to 3/4 throttle might be an idea to get a dynojet kit they have neddles springs and several jets ive a stage 3 kit in my bandit engined gixxer it had 16 runs on the dyno to get it spot on but now going to 38mm flatslides
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97 volvo 940 turbo wagon 87 fiat strada abarth 78 gs1000 82 katana 1100 84 gsx1100 efe
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did you blank the hole inline with the needle No i just put some proper adjustable needles in it and adjusted them correctly. Taping over the hole is such a bodge. If you use the correct needles you can set them so much more accuratly. When i set mine up i was using a MoTeC lambda gauge and i had it at 0.98-1.01 all the way through the rev range.......... speaks for it's self really
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most bike carbs have adjustable needles dynojet needels are machined to give better flow than standered
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97 volvo 940 turbo wagon 87 fiat strada abarth 78 gs1000 82 katana 1100 84 gsx1100 efe
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Nuts, might have guessed it wouldn't be simple. It's a track car (or at least will be) so 3/4 - full throttle is where it will spend most of its time. Think I better give Bogg bros a call though just not sure how much info they will willingly volunteer ? Thanks for all your input chaps it's much appreciated. ;D Anyone made their own inlet manifold ?
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life's short & it's hard, like a body building elf.
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most bike carbs have adjustable needles dynojet needels are machined to give better flow than standered Yeah the Mikomi carbs (found on Suzukis) have adjustable needles and an idle air jet as standard but the Kehin carbs (R6, R1 etc) are curse word! I'd much prefer a set of Mikomi's on mine but i've gotta make do with the Kehin ones. The needles were given to me by a lecturer at uni who used them on his old British Superbike, the cost £200 new
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did you blank the hole inline with the needle No I just put some proper adjustable needles in it and adjusted them correctly. Taping over the hole is such a bodge. If you use the correct needles you can set them so much more accuratly. When I set mine up I was using a MoTeC lambda gauge and I had it at 0.98-1.01 all the way through the rev range.......... speaks for it's self really sounds like a well set up car are you useing the tps, and what year car are you running them on ive not tried the mikuni carbs yet but ive got a set here to try
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Lol, it will be when i build my next engine (build thread coming soon). Basically atm i have a 1360cc TU engine in my 205XT and i'm running the R6 carbs on a Bogg Brothers maifold, through a gas flowed head and out of a 4-2-1 manifold. I have a 284 cam in it but unfoutanatly i can't advance the cam timing anywhere near as far as i need to because the valves will hit the pistons, due to the head being skimmed too many times.
So for my next engine i'm going to machine some valve pockets in the pistons, take some meat out of the bottom end, balance the pistons and rods instead of just the crank and fit some DTA mappable ignition.
So when all thats done i will be using a TPS (it's just on standard ignition atm) and i'll be able to tune the carbs and the engine properly..........and then it'l be a well set up car ;D ;D ;D
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Theres the motor and theres the car
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