luckygti
Posted a lot
I need to try harder!
Posts: 4,912
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Dec 19, 2008 23:35:41 GMT
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Ok, I tried to fill the rather large hole in the floor of the Pug today.. First lesson, Don't make such a big hole, and be a bit more precise about it!!! So lesson learned for next time, I cut the fill piece down but ended up with a gap on one end. This is about 1 to 2 mm at the most, on the right hand end,  I've tried welding on the thicker metal (the original floor) and moving across to the fill, but am just getting blow through and more holes. Whats the best way of closing the gap? Ta muchly.  Have someone else's slightly better effort!!  |
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jikovron
Part of things
mechanical chaos
Posts: 633
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i get reasonable results from moving the weld tip in rapid circuler moverments ,,,,OR maybe slowing the feed down a tiny bit,,,and a lower amp setting to lay a thin tall bead over the gap,,,,then welding with a higher setting over it(it should melt the first bead down without burning through the metal)
well its what ive got away with,,,but there are probably better methods ;D
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luckygti
Posted a lot
I need to try harder!
Posts: 4,912
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Thanks. I'll give it a bash tomorrow, if I can get away from gardening duties!!  |
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,638
Club RR Member Number: 225
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there's probably a better (or more professional way) but i'd turn the welder down and run along the gap going from side to side - this will spatter and pop about but leave enough material on each edge to make the gap smaller so you can run back along it with the power up
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,843
Club RR Member Number: 174
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If I ever get a small gap I just turn the power down a bit, then do really quick swirls along the gap creating a spattery mess. I then turn the power back up and lay a bead over the top of the splatter. It all fuses together and in most cases will look quite neat. Better to make the patch the right size though, saves loads of time in the long run.
Matt
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remember to use it in bursts too.
so it doesnt have time to get hot enough to burn through
i have filled monsters with that technique
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otherwise chuck some copper (I think it's copper, maybe brass?) or something that the weld won't adhere to under the gap when doing the weld so that the bead has somethign to sit on
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Remade In Australia
thereimaginarium.com.au
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Try holding the torch at a fairly extreme angle pointing backward from the direction you are going in, then weld in short bursts alternating left and right piece, but always pointing backward at the weld you just did for it to have something to weld against.. if that makes any sense.
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69 Plymouth Fury Convertible
75 Range Rover 2 door
82 Range Rover 4 door
84 Range Rover 4 door
78 Datsun 120Y 2 door
78 Datsun 120Y Coupe
78 Datsun 620 Pickup
81 Datsun Urvan E23
86 Datsun Vanette van
98 Electric Citroen Berlingo
00 Electric Peugeot Partner
02 Electric Citroen Berlingo
76 Honda C50
04 Berlingo Multispace petrol
07 Land Rover 130
15 Nissan E-NV200
15 Fiat Ducato
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bigvee
Part of things
Posts: 91
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Copper or aluminum sheet under the weld will stop the pool dropping out
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Bit late now I know, but TBH I would have made the plate bigger and had a lap joint rather than a butt joint...
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... the only injury I sustained was a bumped head when I let the seatbelt of without realizing the car was upside down  and that's not really the car's fault. |
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rtlkyuubi
Posted a lot
Low and Slow
Posts: 2,922
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Ive done that a few times before, measure twice cut once... ;D
I kept my power settings reasonably high and gave very quick pulls on the trigger, allowing the previous pull to cool down enough for the next pull to fuse ontop with out melting it away.
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luckygti
Posted a lot
I need to try harder!
Posts: 4,912
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Cool, some good pointers there. Tried to do it as a lap joint but the weld wouldn't take? to the floor area, but half the welds just kept popping off as it cooled?
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Dec 20, 2008 10:35:23 GMT
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Try holding the torch at a fairly extreme angle pointing backward from the direction you are going in, then weld in short bursts alternating left and right piece, but always pointing backward at the weld you just did for it to have something to weld against.. if that makes any sense. as he says.you shouldnt have any problems with a 1 or 2mm gap with mig.you could do it by keep tacking it and just join the tacks up with more tacks. when you make the panel to begine with make it 10mm over size then offer up.mark and trim to suit.tack all corners first as this will stop any gaps opening up. welding at a faster speed helps to prevent blowing through |
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Dec 20, 2008 10:53:04 GMT
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Just do a spider web way, like you start welding on one side then move it to another side of gap and fill up the holes  |
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Dec 20, 2008 19:56:13 GMT
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Do what nobody said and form a continuous weld seam with lots of tacks until they join up. It's a bit slower but much easier until you're more experienced with the welder. You can weld backwards from one tack if it's easier, then you have something a bit thicker to start from and it's less likely to blow away.
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loon
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,092
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Dec 21, 2008 11:06:39 GMT
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another method i use when butt welding is to use a length of gas welding rod, so when it starts to blow out stop let it cool down and restart welding using the the MIG and gas rod for extra filler, but don't let it get to big or there will be a bigger hole when it drops out. always remember to pull the filler wire out of the pool before you stop welding 'coz it will stay there . ARK welding rods can do the same job if they are thin enough ,about 1.5-3 mm would be OK but you will have to remove the flux coating if anyone is going to do it this way can i just say that it does require some practice before you get it right first time every time this method was shown to me by a veteran welder and I'm glad he did |
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what the fcuk have you done lately
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luckygti
Posted a lot
I need to try harder!
Posts: 4,912
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Dec 22, 2008 23:01:42 GMT
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Ok chaps. Thanks all for the excellent advice. I went with a bit of a mixture, but basically welded spots on each sideand then up the middle. Also tried Datmans/nobody's lean back method? which also worked well. Ended up putting a small fillet in at the back as the gap was about 5mm by the time I'd got round that far. So here is the finished article....   It ain't perfect but I'm quite pleased with it! It was all good practice anyway, and my confidence to do the job has been a big boost, So THANKS GUYS. ;D ;D |
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Last Edit: Dec 22, 2008 23:03:19 GMT by luckygti
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and that's not really the car's fault.
