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Right, the Cedric is coming back from welding on wednesday so paint is imminent.
Now, considering this is
a) my first paint job and
b) being done in a not particularly 'sterile' environment
...what type of paint would you lot recommend? Celly? 2K?
its gonna get just primer then paint as the bodies all good now. Its going gloss black so should I do base then clearcoat so the inevitable dust can be worked out or can I do that with 'topcoat' paint (ie: no clearcoat)
Manythanksinadvanceloveyoulotsxxx
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Your car is not 'epic', this thread is not 'epic'....the OCEAN is epic, the UNIVERSE is epic.... please stop misusing this word!! It would appear Hotrods are the new VWs - aint fashion funny! '69 BUICK LESABRE 350 |
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Primer - I'd suggest Etch primer - it sticks better.
Paint - with base and clear coat, any dust that is on/in the colour layer before the clearcoat goes on is going to stay there. Also, the basecoat is very thin - with Celly you put more paint on so it's easier to flat out such imperfections.
2K is good paint, but is sometimes seen as being too shiny. Also it contains cyanide compounds that aren't good for your health...
Painting gloss black is hard work - the prep has to be perfect or it'll really show up. A guide coat is your friend, as are a long flatting board, big arm muscles,. lots of time and patience.
At this time of year you won't get any sort of finish on the paint - it might not even set, and if it does you'll havce a huge amount of bloom (flat, milky horribleness) on it. The only way of doing it is in a heated garage or spray booth. Obviously don't use a propane/paraffin etc. heater around paint.
Oh, and make sure that the paint is at least slightly warm when spraying - rather than stone cold.
HTH,
James
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Ack, its definatly not heated in there :S that could be a problem  |
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Your car is not 'epic', this thread is not 'epic'....the OCEAN is epic, the UNIVERSE is epic.... please stop misusing this word!! It would appear Hotrods are the new VWs - aint fashion funny! '69 BUICK LESABRE 350 |
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as far as I know you can't buy celly or two pack over the counter any more, you have you be a registered classic car restorer. Commonly available now is water based paint, which needs heat to dry it. Fine for the odd panel, but not for a full respray
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Unfortunately so. I put some paint on the Imp's sills (just been welded) yesterday, and it's still not set - it's skinned over, but just peels off if you knock it.
If you can hire one of those propane space heaters and get the garage hot before starting work then you might be able to keep it warm-ish using electric heaters. The disadvantage is that the propane will make it damp in the garage.
One thing that might be well worth looking into is infra-red heaters - you can heat the car before spraying and while it dries, and it isn't so intense that it will damage the paint.
Another thing to do is to heat the paint, but it still won't go onto cold panels well.
James
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I was going to buy the celly online (eBay) as I can get 5L for £69. Maybe I'm going to have to leave it until the spring the workshop is HUGE so would need shed-loads of heat to warm it just a few degrees |
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Your car is not 'epic', this thread is not 'epic'....the OCEAN is epic, the UNIVERSE is epic.... please stop misusing this word!! It would appear Hotrods are the new VWs - aint fashion funny! '69 BUICK LESABRE 350 |
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Ah feck.
I'd suggest putting something on it for now (especially on bare metal, but on top of any primer too) - prime and a quick blow-over with some top-coat of some sort. Just the cheapest celly (basic white is normally cheapest) would do - it's just to stop the rust from setting in during the winter.
It'll look horrid and you'll have to take it all off again in the spring, but at least you won't have rust to treat.
James
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The new steel has some red oxide on it already but I guess ill just wang some rattlecan brown/black over it for now. Shame really cause I wanted to get the paint done ready for the airbags in the spring.
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Your car is not 'epic', this thread is not 'epic'....the OCEAN is epic, the UNIVERSE is epic.... please stop misusing this word!! It would appear Hotrods are the new VWs - aint fashion funny! '69 BUICK LESABRE 350 |
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o jon when some one offers you there oven work shop and skills you should really take it up,
don't use celly its curse word don't use base and clear either unless your building a minter and your prep is the nuts,
you need good old 2k HS
Thick covers shines like hell
tada only 14 years behind the gun 20 plus features etc tec etc YAWN
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Last Edit: Dec 8, 2008 20:05:14 GMT by caddycol
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o jon when some one offers you there oven work shop and skills you should really take it up, don't use celly its curse word don't use base and clear either unless your building a minter and your prep is the nuts, you need good old 2k HS Thick covers shines like hell tada only 14 years behind the gun 20 plus features etc tec etc YAWN Funnily enough, i was thinking of your offer about an hour ago  its getting the car down in a prepped state that would be tough. If i MOT it, and strip all bar the essentials to drive it down and sand the body ready for primer, sort a weekend to do it.... how long do you reckon it'd take to quickly mask up and shoot the primer & 2K? |
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Your car is not 'epic', this thread is not 'epic'....the OCEAN is epic, the UNIVERSE is epic.... please stop misusing this word!! It would appear Hotrods are the new VWs - aint fashion funny! '69 BUICK LESABRE 350 |
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I always stand up for celly and acrylic paints. Not as hard wearing as 2K but a lot easier for the home user to work with, much easier to polish out the defects, etc. Plenty of show cars were done in celly and the like back in the day and theres cars till done in old celly or acrylic jobs holding up fine years later.
Especially in a "less than sterile" environment where dust nibs will be an issue.
Problem is this time of year, paint with celly or acrylic its pretty much a guarantee it will bloom and ruin the paint job.
2K is glossy and durable. Not good for the health in a confined area like a DIY garage, you need extraction and/or respiration really. I have been there and it made me ill. That was with 2K clear, but the direct gloss paints are going to be about the same as its the same stuff in the hardners. You at least have some control with different rate hardners, paint rocket etc. which you don't get with the old single part paints.
Water based paint needs heat and air movement to cure it. Heat alone won't do it. You can bake it as hot as you like, as long as you like, its the air movement which dries it.
I'd primer it and put a rattle can gloss black or whatever on to seal it as suggested. Unless someone is offering use of facilities in which case I'd have their hand off. Obviously not the hand they paint with LOL.
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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2k wants a certain amount of ambient heat to go off well.
I've not done a lot of water-based but it does dry OK with heat only. It well might be better with air movement esp with bigger panels where it gives a drying effect over a greater area, but heat does work. Quite expensive paint though and seems to soak up 2k clear, although there's no time pressure to get clear on, unlike 1k. Didn't like it much, compared to solvent paints.
2k's great, polishes up nicely maybe a little more margin in the prep than 1k. Wants respect with regard to masks, covering up, and where the clouds of it go out of your garage re neighbours, pets etc etc.
ps - what he said, about biting the hand off.. esp with black!
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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Rich G
Posted a lot
Keyboard Worrier
Posts: 1,059
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as caddycol said 2k HS is your best bet for a good finish, clear over base is great but will require a fair bit more prep as its harder to work with. the 2k HS will cover well and shine nice but this time of year is not the best time to be doing a home paint job especially in black unless you have the right equipment to keep it warm ect or it will just turn grey/white .take the offer of the workshop as black is not a colour that's very forgiving and will show any imperfections in the prep .
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just 2 prove i can do black  standox water base tiffle schwatz with standox HS clear, quick hose job for Dave the welder cost him about 300ish, we preped it up his shed spot primed 4 repairs ,took about 1hr 2 paint |
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loon
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,092
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i can do black tooo here what i done at home in 2k clear over base  iv go my own workshop now |
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what the fcuk have you done lately
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Cheers guys. I'm taking Col up on his offer of a booth...seems sensible. I was worried about the practicalities of getting it there but i think ive sussed a way  |
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Your car is not 'epic', this thread is not 'epic'....the OCEAN is epic, the UNIVERSE is epic.... please stop misusing this word!! It would appear Hotrods are the new VWs - aint fashion funny! '69 BUICK LESABRE 350 |
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I also did black. I didn't use anything as exciting as a Standox base... Its just a mid priced (Lechler) HS Base with 1K clear. The car was dog rough and took weeks to prep. Was done a lot of it outside.   |
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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paulw
Part of things
Posts: 216
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Just wanted to give a quick plug to these people: www.colorite.co.uk/home.htmlif you do want celly - they still supply any colour for classic use and not at mad prices - went down to their place to see them about paint for the Dart and they really know their stuff. They're in Hanwell, West London way. They also do 2k primer in an aerosol which I found really useful when working on doing loads of small repairs around the car. Didn't know you could get that. |
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Lotus Seven
'58 Ford Special
64 Barracuda
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how does 2K in an aerosol work?
I ask this because I see so many people say they have it, use it, whatever.
However 2K needs to have an activator mixed into it. If you mix the activator in the pot life is measured in hours or minutes, so a 2K aerosol can't have it premixed in or you'd have to use the aerosol same day.
If there is no activator, then its not 2K. 2K means Zwei Komponent. I ie 2 part. Hense its also called 2 pack, cos you need two packs of stuff...
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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its getting the car down in a prepped state that would be tough.
