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Hi ya folks - I have some questions about the old 'tina:-  Two things: - The car has been hit with the stick - gaz adjustable coil over struts on the front and de-arched lotus leafs with 2" blocks on the back. My gearbox guru has advised me that the prop-shaft shouldn't run dead-straight from the gearbox to the axle (which it does) but couldn't provide any science to explain why - does anyone know?! I'm asking 'cos my newly rebuilt axle is whining a bit and I'm trying to eliminate all causes before digging into it. 2nd question - the Cortina is running 185 60 13's on 6" lotus steels and tends to tram-line and be knocked off course by undulations in the road. I'm fairly sure the front suspension geometry is all to cock but I also wonder if narrower tyres would help. Any thoughts - would a bit of camber help? Or caster....Anyone know anything about suspension set ups?!!! Thanks for all your help in advance     |
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Old Fords never die they just go sideways
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,842
Club RR Member Number: 174
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The prop shouldn't run dead straight due to something with the UJ's. Can't remember if its so they don't wear in one plane, or whether they stop picking up lubricant.
I'd get the suspension setup and see whats what before fiddling with it.
Matt
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,516
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If the prop runs dead straight then it means the bearings in the UJ's don't actually have to turn much if at all so they don't continually distribute the grease in them. Can lead to them wearing out faster tehn they ought to. But if you disconnect the prop and move the ends around by hand you'll be able to feel what kind of condition they're in. Shouldn't feel rough in any way. But they don't whine in my experience. Once they start going you'll get a vibration as if the prop were out of balance followed eventually by more vibration and grinding noises!
I'd say get the alignment checked on the front end as it is and find out where you are starting from before playing around. If its all adjustable probably best to get it close to the factory setting first.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable. |
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yus, a dead straight prop wears out the UJ's fast, especially on something lowered without much suspension movement.
As they transmit the drive, the stress is always on the same place on the bearing so they wear ridges into them and the carriers try to ride up the edges and can disintigrate in a fairly sepctacular fashion sometimes without any warning its gonna happen except from a slight clunk when taking up the drive.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Thanks chaps - at least I know the reason why a straight prop isn't a good thing. So, I don't really want to raise the ride height, and I can't lower it any more (The rear wheels only just squeeze through between the arch lip and the brake drum when changing the wheel at the moment ;D).
So, any solutions?
Would angled lowering blocks help?
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Old Fords never die they just go sideways
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lifting or lowering the diff angle will help that end, same with the gearbox, adjusting the mount slightly will give you a slight angle, I'm not sure what the max allowed angle is though, its not much.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Hmmm, me thinks I need access to a pit or a four post lift so I can measure the angles with the car sitting on its wheels (might be useful to measure up the front suspension too.)
Anyone around Guildford able to help?
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Old Fords never die they just go sideways
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