1990 opel senator on air+gas. fixed.

As expected



I'm sure stuyiz and I worked out that he had a set of wheels that would fit - they might be a bit smaller than you are looking for but may suit the car

LOL - no worries Matt ;D

i wouldnt have bothered looking through that massive box of recepts myself either, but ive be ill in bed the last week and was starting to get more than a little bored!!

Are they the 16" irmscher jobbies then?

They do look very similar but better than the 15's

wheels are gunna have to wait i'm afraid boys, been spending cash left right and centre on everything but, so funds are too low to get anything different.

anyways,
ive been slowly sorting the electricals, in between being rather ill, and the curse word weather.
I welded a stainless nut onto the inner wing to give it somewhere decent to bolt the earth to, as the original was damaged. then I painted it, ran a tap through it, sanded the surface back, and used a M10 stainless bolt with spring washer to bolt the earth down, with a smear of coppergrease to prevent corrosion.


the new earth strap- 2 gauge braided wire, with a big 'ol terminal soldered on, I used a zinc plated terminal to prevent corrosion, and gold plated raptor multi-wire clamps for the battery. this are great for if youve got extra wiring over stock, such as all the stuff for the LPG and airbags on mine.




positive clamp waiting to go on to get rid of all the ring terminals on the battery clamp bolt-


then, when speaking to a mate of mine i'm doing some work for, I happened to mention my problems. it turns out his dad used to work for the police in their maintanence department. he rang him, and he instantly said its one of 2 things- a bad earth, or a problem with the crank position. well I was already ontp the earth situation (I'm making a new one to replace the one between the engine block and chassis, then ile replace the one between alternator body and engine block). but I immediately thought of matt saying he-d replaced the CPS recently, and investigated that-





ile rewire the connections, as the soldering isnt perfect. the original wire is a strange one with 2 cores and an outer ring of fine mesh, like a co-axial cable, so I will see about tracing it back and replacing the lot with 3 seperate wires just to be sure.
the base of the plug on the actual sensor is all cracked though, with the cable exposed, which I think could be the problem. so I may need another

still, at least these turned up to help me keep my morale up with the fecking thing-




UK legal german plates. they clean it up nicely, I love the look of pressed ally plates over the crappy plastic things.

That's a shielded cable, that fine mesh is a ground, designed to keep the signal free from outside interference. I'd say you're getting a bad/noisy signal from the CPS, they're quite sensitive and need to be properly shielded for the entire length of their run.

Cheers!

PM on its way about the carbs....

cheers for the tip- only problem i can see then is affixing the sockets on each end and keeping it shielded
I'm gunna have to trace it all the way back up to see how replaceable it is, i presume it goes to the ECU?

Usually that's where it terminates, or near the main ECU connector. Also, soldering isn't usually the best way to connect a shielded wire like that, due to the possibility of increasing the resistance at the solder point if too much is added. As blasphemous as it sounds, I use crimp connectors most times, with a generous helping of heat-shrink tubing over top. I've seen shielded sleeves that can be slid over top of a wire, but I'm at a loss as to where.

Best bet, go with the microphone cable mentioned above, it's ok if there is an inch or so of unshielded cable near the sensor/ECU, but the stuff that crosses the bay has to be shielded to block out noise.