andyborris
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On my Land Rover the clutch pedal hits the floor without really dis-engaging the clutch. The car will drive with the clutch pedal fully depressed.
The clutch has been bleed with a Goodridge Speedbleeder fitted and I'm pretty sure there's no air in the system, (these worked great with the brakes!), no leaks I can see and the pedal seems properly adjusted.
Am I right in thinking that this means a dying or dead master cylinder? The M/C has stood dry for many months after the engine swap, could this cause problems?
Or I guess something went wrong with the engine swap......too late to complain now!
Thanks
Andy
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colnerov
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Try looking at the slave cylinder and/or the pushrod which may be too short.
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andyborris
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Try looking at the slave cylinder and/or the pushrod which may be too short. Yeah, hoping you wasn't going to say that  . Got to drop the whole exhaust to take of the slave and it's still a right pain. In theory the M/C, slave and pushrod are the same parts that worked fine on the kettle engine and now don't work on the replacement non-kettle engine, logic dictates it's either a faulty/broken part or Manston Classic Land Rovers have cocked up doing the engine swap. I think I'll start with the easiest thing to change, the M/C. At least I won't be laying on the wet ground! |
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jgtr
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Not uncommon for clutch hydraulics to go faulty when disturbed especially if left dry for a period of time. They don’t like being opened up or left dry. I’d start with the master cylinder as that’s the most common to go. PITA as you could be as careful as possible but just happens sometimes.
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Girling or Lockheed hydraulics?
Girling are typically pretty easy to bleed and generally fairly obliging. Lockheed….. not so much. The Lockheed clutch hydraulics on my 2.5PI sorely tried my patience on several occasions.
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Also meant to say (seems I’ve lost my editing rights?), does it actually feel like a clutch pedal to your foot - ie can you feel it going over-centre about mid-travel? It’s not unknown for the friction plate to rust to the flywheel ion vehicles left standing….
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
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IMHO, it will be one of the things the chaps above have suggested, most likely one of the cylinders.
Another cause it can be, but unlikely IMHO is that the car has a self-adjusting clutch, which needs resetting. How has the clutch been during your ownership of the car? The biting point would be low.
I only mention that as I recall the V8 has come out of a later Range Rover?
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andyborris
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Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
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Sorry for not updating this thread earlier, I've updated the Landys build thread.
Turns out the Landy has an adjustable pushrod, which I adjusted and now I have a working clutch.
However, the pedal was in the correct position before adjustment and is still in the correct position after adjustment, logic dictates that the pedal should move when the pushrod is adjusted, in fact, that's why it has an adjustable pushrod, to place the pedal in the right position to the brake pedal, not to adjust the clutch.
And I know that the flywheel and clutch assembly were moved onto the new engine from the old engine, so I'm unsure what happened to it!
I'm just glad it was an easy and "not a penny spent" fix, through I do have a pushrod shaped bruise on my little finger!
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