Does anyone have/had a R100 or R metro that handles???

right ok, ive never seen any reference online about fitting mgf displacers, but dosnt mean people don't. My 4 all look outside to be good, but i recon there is no gas in them. I can get my mate to braze some fittings for the valves, i have tried to mig a spare one i have and they just leak. I think if i get one of those bottles of nitrogen from ebay again, i can pressurise it myself.

i can see a set of mgf front shocks for £60 new on ebay, so i think thats a winner.

All the other suspension components seem to be good, new bottom arms, no play in the top, no movement in the rear arms that i can feel.

Id rather use whats on it as its a R100 metro, thats how they should be.

If you don't like the idea of MGF displacers, use Metro GTI ones. The easiest way to get some is to remove them from an MGF...

I don't really want to lower it that much, here is how it looks now




looks quite standard, but its on 14" mgf spare wheels, and rover 200 wheel trims. Looks quite standard, and witht eh 1.8 it flys! Gets quite a lot of attention to be fair.

But, atm when its doing say 70 mph its all over the place, i think its lost most of its nitrogen, so far i had seen prices of £400 to get them regassed plus postage. Just seen a lad less than a hour away that can do it for £40 a corner, and he says also he can revalve them for fast road.

this is from ebay

I was trying to make the decision to go with the TF front subframe, or to stay with the linked or split system.


when fitting the mgf units, i take it you put two rear ones on the front? and do you put two fronts on the rear? Mine are in fair condition to look at, used mgf ones quick look are like £280 for 4 on ebay, but I'm more bothered about it not trying to bounce me off the road so the standard ones maybe ok?

Can you tell me more about the rear droop stop spacers please?

thanks for the kind reply

i spoke to the ebay guy about my suspension today, he said that the gti/mgf units, when he has taken them apart he cant really see any difference in them, but just using my set up was good. He said the cup cars, he put less gas in them which makes them harder. i think i want factory ride. He also said that my units could be damaged if they are empty, but a replacement one from him is £60. He seemed a really knollageable guy on the phone.


Ive got a pg1 box to fit to it, while I'm doing that ill do the suspension.

not been on the metropower web site, will have a look!

thanks for the reply! My car is a later R100, it has the R65, and probably the R65U i am not sure. When i put the 1800 in, i had the box out and i never checked the oil, it had later on i found 1/2 ltr of oil in it, the diff whines now. So my plan was to use the PG1 as an upgrade, and also the clutch i am on is a 1100 one. It seems ok atm but I'm not 100% sure of it now.

Probably slightly longer legged may help me with the car, first does seema little short, and top is ok but i will be going to retro rides at mallory hopefully in it and it will suit it better. But not sure yet.

thats a point too, the clutch, i have heard they use early metro master cylinders. My car has a black plate where the brake and clutch come threw, i take it i would need one of those too?

also i have seen engine mount correction plates on ebay, what do they actually do? does it matter for drive shafts? 

oh right ok, it looks like then it moves the engine mount arm back like 20mm or something? My engine now sits close to the front panel, is that why then!?

If i do the box, ill take the arm off and just cut and weld the mount back.

The clutch then, the black plate that the master sits on, can i mod the one i have? i really didnt want to get into a project with this car, but then it goes so well! In some ways though it would have been a lot easier to turbo the 1100.

tbh id ditch the hydro from the start and not waste my time on it. Done plenty of dabbling with it over the years and never been able to make it work how i wanted. Id be careful ploughing a load of money into it with so called 'experts' ive seen some bloody awful advice coming out of some of them. A guy makes a kit to convert the front to coils now. The rears requires turrets welding in but its worth it for a performance car. So much easier to set up a car with springs!

Yes, essentially a half frame mounted with two rubber sandwich mount each side at the front and the rear supported by the flimsy straps around the hydro cans! You can solid mount the rear end with a simple bracket on the frame with a bolt though the floor to a spreader plate (ideally with a brace bar between each plate linking the two together). You can also ditch the rubber from the sandwich mounts and replace with nylon to essentially give you a solid mounted frame, but the mounting areas on the shell need to be solid and ideally stitch welded in  that area. I think the semi-floating OE design was to give a little rear steer feeling, but is a dated way of doing it now. Putting a lower brace bar at the base of the rear of the rear subframe is easy enough. not really neccesary if you've sloid mounted the rear anyway, and tend to wallop on speed bumps (particualrly those square ones) as the hang quite low on a lowered car.

Coilovers, yes are nicer and ALOT easier to set up once you done the installation work and fiddled with spring rates. But, all the cup cars still run hydragas front and rear (albeit with front dampers, think the got rid of running rear dampers in the last regs "update"...) and they can bang in some pretty good lap times still. They claim that is due to not wanting to increase costs to compete, but a new hydragas pump is £600, plus fluid, plus machining, faffing around installing washers on the knuckles if you want to raise it but retain the same can pressure yada yada yada. TBH it's one of the reasons I've dragged out finishing a car I built to race with but then the reg changes came in and if you are out of the reg requirements you can compete but in the non-points scoring class, which is empty....