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Apr 23, 2023 20:52:14 GMT
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I've added diagrams of current set up & proposed set up. The 4 way splitter is available on ebay from a range rover I believe. The rear brake compensator on my hijet pick up is seized solid & a replacement is over £300. As I intend on never having load in the back as I'm going to fit a timber liner & metal stripes can I just remove it, replum the brake pipes, cut off any brackets so it looked like it was never fitted? Is it a necessity?    |
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Last Edit: May 9, 2023 18:18:03 GMT by ianlea73
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,244 
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Mot advise, brakes.Rich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Apr 23, 2023 21:29:49 GMT
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Without it it’ll be potentially horrible to drive as it’ll lock the brakes on the rear car too easily. It’s there to proportion brake force Vs. Load. You would be better off fitting a manual valve in its place, tuning it to suit the bed you intend to build and then leaving it alone.  |
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Last Edit: Apr 23, 2023 21:30:12 GMT by Rich
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Apr 23, 2023 21:54:35 GMT
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Without it it’ll be potentially horrible to drive as it’ll lock the brakes on the rear car too easily. It’s there to proportion brake force Vs. Load. You would be better off fitting a manual valve in its place, tuning it to suit the bed you intend to build and then leaving it alone. A manual brake bias valve? I'll have a look on ebay. Cheers. |
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Apr 23, 2023 22:18:17 GMT
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Last Edit: Apr 23, 2023 22:23:18 GMT by minijohn
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,244
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Mot advise, brakes.Rich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Without it it’ll be potentially horrible to drive as it’ll lock the brakes on the rear car too easily. It’s there to proportion brake force Vs. Load. You would be better off fitting a manual valve in its place, tuning it to suit the bed you intend to build and then leaving it alone. A manual brake bias valve? I'll have a look on ebay. Cheers. That’s the one. You can fine tune it to make sure the brakes perform correctly and safely with the (lack of) weight on the back end without the MOT drama that way. 👍🏻 |
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,835
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Mot advise, brakes.stealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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A manual proportioning valve is the thing to try, but you need to be careful as often they don't reduce as much line pressure as OEM valves.
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MOGGY
Part of things
Posts: 272
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Or un-seize yours, I’ve done this many times for mot’s
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Total classic car pervert
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Apr 24, 2023 14:54:23 GMT
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Is that adjustable manually or flow control? |
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redratbike
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,525
Member is Online
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Apr 24, 2023 16:19:44 GMT
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oh yes this is fun
my dad couldn’t get a decent pedal in an old mini van he gave me.
he pulled the compensator valve out which i didn’t know the consequences of and lo and behold the first time i jumped hard on the brakes whilst racing a 3.0s capri through the lanes in a proper david and goliath moment.
came into a tight bend stomped on the pedal and the car swapped ends we hit the bank backwards and went over the top and rolled in the field a number of times.
i can remember my mate Tony shrieking yee-hah in the finest dukes of hazard style as we flew though the air.
in the morning the mini van wasn’t there and i claimed it must of been stolen as didn’t want to admit i had crashed it 3 days after getting it on the road .
only found out years later what he had done and put 2 and 2 together
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Last Edit: Apr 24, 2023 16:20:56 GMT by redratbike
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Apr 24, 2023 16:31:00 GMT
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,192
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Mot advise, brakes.ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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A manual proportioning valve is the thing to try, but you need to be careful as often they don't reduce as much line pressure as OEM valves. I’m guessing the the proportioning valves can work all of the time as well (Ie, the car going over compressions), which in theory a manual valve won’t be able to do unless he is changing it all of the time. |
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I've added current & proposed brake set up to my first post.
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Last Edit: May 9, 2023 18:20:07 GMT by ianlea73
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,244
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Mot advise, brakes.Rich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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I've added current & proposed brake set up to my first post. Do not combine both outputs from the MC into one amalgamated output. One line should operate one front brake, and one or both rears, and the other should operate the opposite rear and front. If you have one rear line then one run rear line from one of the MC outputs. If you have two rear lines which is what it looks like the photo of the chassis shows then you need to run opposite corners off each MC output for sensible safety. This may mean you need 2 brake bias valves but it also means you won't lose your entire brake hydraulics in the event of line failure. |
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I've added current & proposed brake set up to my first post. Do not combine both outputs from the MC into one amalgamated output. One line should operate one front brake, and one or both rears, and the other should operate the opposite rear and front. If you have one rear line then one run rear line from one of the MC outputs. If you have two rear lines which is what it looks like the photo of the chassis shows then you need to run opposite corners off each MC output for sensible safety. This may mean you need 2 brake bias valves but it also means you won't lose your entire brake hydraulics in the event of line failure. Do you mean the 4 way splitter I proposed in my 2nd pic? The 1st pic is factory 5 way splitter that shares front & rear ports too? |
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,244
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Mot advise, brakes.Rich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Do not combine both outputs from the MC into one amalgamated output. One line should operate one front brake, and one or both rears, and the other should operate the opposite rear and front. If you have one rear line then one run rear line from one of the MC outputs. If you have two rear lines which is what it looks like the photo of the chassis shows then you need to run opposite corners off each MC output for sensible safety. This may mean you need 2 brake bias valves but it also means you won't lose your entire brake hydraulics in the event of line failure. Do you mean the 4 way splitter I proposed in my 2nd pic? The 1st pic is factory 5 way splitter that shares front & rear ports too? I doubt it merges brake force as it’s basically converting a dual line down to single which no manufacturer would do. Build it as a diagonal split, and bask in the knowledge that if you ever have a line fail you’ll still have 50% brake force available to stop the truck.  |
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