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I'm having trouble with getting a suitable higher ampage alternator than those that came on stock Chrysler
1994-2005 Neon 90amp
1997-2005 Voyager 120amp
I can easily get BMW N47 180 Amp Alternator Fits 1 3 Series E8X E9X 318D 3120D 118d 120D 8507624
BMW Alternator - 180Amp 14V
OEM Part number: 8507624
Fits
1 Series E81 E82 E87 E88
3 Series E90 E91 E92 E93
(Only Diesel Models with the N47 Engine)
There is a load of those on ebay for twenty quid!
So now the questions. Has anybody done something similar? How hard would it be to do?
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Last Edit: Dec 3, 2021 23:48:12 GMT by Rich
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Aside from the braketry It will depend on how the alternator is controlled, many modern ones are so called smart alternators and the charging is controlled by the engine control module rather than an ignition light which I assume the neon has.
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Aside from the braketry . Please explain it might be just me having a CRAFT [Can't Remember A F'ing Thing] Moment. As regarding the car it will be going into [Neon body, Voyager Engine & Intrepid ECU] The ECU would send a field generator signal to the alternator also connected to automatic shut down relay. |
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This is a good description of smart alternator operation. This adds a bit more detail. The ECU uses a PWM signal to control the output of the alternator so it isn't just a case of exciting the coil and away you go anymore unfortunately. If you want a high-output alternator, you either need to arrange a suitable signal to control a smart alternator or go with an old-fashioned, simple one. Edit: Also you need to consider the maximum charge rate of your battery. Again, modern ones are capable of being charged at 180A or more, your old one...probably not!
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Last Edit: Dec 6, 2021 13:49:23 GMT by daklone
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Aside from the braketry . Please explain it might be just me having a CRAFT [Can't Remember A F'ing Thing] Moment. As regarding the car it will be going into [Neon body, Voyager Engine & Intrepid ECU] The ECU would send a field generator signal to the alternator also connected to automatic shut down relay. Apologies for the delay, I was referring to physically mounting it and making sure the pulley aligns. As daklone says they are PWM controlled (some of the very modern ones are even CAN linked). Take a look at ones for older vans, lot of these had high output alternators as options to run accessories and conversions. |
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I had a similar dilemma with my Honda build (modern alternator ecu controlled) that wasn't running an ECU
hopefully you may find this helpful.
there are four wires coming out of the back of the F20c alternator, a warning lamp wire, positive ignition feed wire and the other two wires going to the ECU. The ECU wires drops the charging voltage to 13.2 at certain loads and running conditions (for economy) all i had to do was not do anything with the ECU wires, as simple as that.
I have 14.7 volts (which is perfect for the Gel Battery i'm using) and a charge lamp that works as it should.
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I had a 73 Bedford fitted with a Fiesta diesel alternator as it was a bigger out put and cheap, it was simple to re wire
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It will come in handy even if you never use it
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You also need to consider how much load you can put through the belt before it starts slipping especially if you just have a single V belt.
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It's a multi ribbed serpentine belt on a 3.3L V6
An alternator that will need to put out a lot more than 136 amps.
I'm trying to run an electric A/C compressor that has a pretty decent current draw. Why? No space on serpentine belt for a belt driven A/C compressor
The Neon/Voyager alternators Had 2 control wires, 1) Automatic Shutdown Relay. 2) ECU control
The dash charge/battery light is sent from the ecu.
For £20, I guess it isn't a big loss to see if it is something that might be able to work.
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Last Edit: Dec 8, 2021 0:29:43 GMT by mitsuru
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I would suspect it is connected to one of the metal washers that the cover bolts on with via a strip of metal moulded in the cover, try buzzing them out with a multimeter or test lamp.
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