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For various reasons, one of the ball joints on my car is an older type which has a castellated nut and a split pin. Having tried to get the split pin out for ages yesterday (it went back together without the hub / disc unit on, and there's a lot more access) I wondered whether anyone can think of a reason that I shouldn't just do away with the castellated nut / split pin combo and put a new nyloc on it?
On the one hand there's a little less thread for the nylon insert to grip (in the shape of two holes around the circumference) but on the other, the edge of the holes might scuff the nylon a little more. Equally, the nylon part might not be anywhere near the holes - I haven't tried it, I thought I'd ask first.
I can't think of a reason not to do it, can anyone else?
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MonzaPhil
Posted a lot
Think like a man of action, act like a man of thought
Posts: 2,456
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Nut has to have a locking function, be that split pin or nyloc. Either is fine.
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This is now a clicky linky!  |
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Cheers, I thought that would be the case.
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hopeso
Part of things
Posts: 340 
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MOT guys here tell me if there is supposed to be a split pin there it must be in place at MOT time.
Daft I know, but.......
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v8ian
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,763
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I would go with nyloc if the MOT guys give you a bit of grief then worry. Just go for it, I have done the nyloc/split pin thing before, never raised an eyebrow at the MOT
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Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style.
Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
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I only ever use nylocs and a spring washer on ball joints
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Well, I've done it now and it seems to be OK. I don't think the split pin hole is visible now the nyloc nut is in place. If anything it now looks more even, as the ball joint on the other side was a later one that doesn't have a hole in it, so I have nylocs on both sides.
My question was more about the technicality of whether it would work properly, rather than an MOT question. The car doesn't actually need an MOT any more, though I am thinking it'll probably get one (or an equivalent) every couple of years.
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I've said it before and I'll say it again, I can't believe that mot exemption is a good thing. It's alright for people such as yourself who know (and care) what they're doing but there must be a lot of dangerously neglected shitboxes being daily driven by people who never check anything then wonder why something fell off and made them crash.
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My local guys who mot the stuff I have that needs it are happy to do a ‘safety check’, ie an mot without putting it on the system
My understanding is that once you start with mots, you have to keep going
I'm happier with another pair of eyes checking my work, who can honestly say that they never miss anything?
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bricol
Part of things
Posts: 285
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I've said it before and I'll say it again, I can't believe that mot exemption is a good thing. It's alright for people such as yourself who know (and care) what they're doing but there must be a lot of dangerously neglected shitboxes being daily driven by people who never check anything then wonder why something fell off and made them crash. I can't imagine there are a lot of 40 year old "shitboxes" out there that aren't in the hands of someone who looks after them rather more closely than say a 3.5yr old curse word box that's got three worn out tyres, two duff brake lights, and worn out brake pads as its next "service" isn't until it fails the MOT in 6mths time . . |
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MOT manual says suspension and steering joints need to be secure, not how they're secured. I've changed quite a few ball joints or track rod ends that had split pins, and the new ones come with nylocs or vice versa
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Yeah likewise timbo1956, however the last one I bought came with a nyloc nut AND a splitpin, but no hole bore through either the nut or the thread. Oddly enough I decided that the nyloc was sufficient 😂 |
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