cjj
Part of things
Posts: 275
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Jun 17, 2020 23:26:59 GMT
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So recently I stripped and refurbed a set of badly corroded alloys - I ended up using Starchem Synstryp on those, and it was okay, but it did take a full litre of the stuff due to some thick layers of over a decade of refurbs - or so it seemed.
So anyway, I have picked up another set of lacquered cut wheels where a couple just have lacquer peel/corrosion, but at least one has been badly painted and is quite thick with primer and paint. I could go out and get more stripper, but it was a bit of a pain, so I was wondering if anyone had had much luck with the heatgun method?
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I think you are going to struggle - try by all means but a alloy wheel is one hell of a heat sink
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cjj
Part of things
Posts: 275
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I think you are going to struggle - try by all means but a alloy wheel is one hell of a heat sink That was my thoughts, but at the same time I was thinking that the heat behind/under the paint may actually help with the layer separation ? |
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Jun 18, 2020 10:20:40 GMT
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Feel free to experiment and please let us know how you get on  I am genuinely curious as I have some to do also  Nick |
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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domrr
Part of things
Posts: 41 
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Jun 18, 2020 10:42:15 GMT
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cjj I have tried this - years ago. As GN has said, the wheel acts as a massive heat sink. You can get the wheel too hot to touch but I never managed to get the paint close to blistering. Having said that I was trying this on a set of OEM wheels so the finish may have been less favourable to this method. Let us know how you get on!
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Jun 18, 2020 11:35:32 GMT
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probably far cheaper to find someone to dip or media blast them for you.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,843
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Jun 18, 2020 17:06:09 GMT
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I've tried putting them in the hot tank at work before (95 degrees C)and even after several hours the paint is only softened to make blasting easier unless it's a thin layer of rattle can paint in which case you can blast it off with a industrial pressure washer.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Jun 18, 2020 19:20:22 GMT
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www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174204913132I'm guessing you wouldnt want to invest in a drum of this but this stuff is basically the only way to strip alloy wheels. You can get water based strippers but they have to be used hot and in my experience arnt as good. If you do buy some of this be aware. It will kill you in a multitude of ways, you need all the PPE and more, it needs disposing of properly too.
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cjj
Part of things
Posts: 275
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probably far cheaper to find someone to dip or media blast them for you. I assume by that logic someone is going to pay me to let them do that  |
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cjj
Part of things
Posts: 275
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cjj I have tried this - years ago. As GN has said, the wheel acts as a massive heat sink. You can get the wheel too hot to touch but I never managed to get the paint close to blistering. Having said that I was trying this on a set of OEM wheels so the finish may have been less favourable to this method. Let us know how you get on! Most of what I need to strip is old flaking clearcoat on some previously OE polished/diamond wheels. I recently used Synstryp on some wheels that were caked in all sorts of finishes (must have been several mm thick) and it just took a bit more time/effort than desirable, due to strippers being a bit weak these days. |
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