Battenberg
Part of things
Time for Cake....
Posts: 744
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Hello
I have amongst other things a K74 L200 Mitsubishi, whilst in lockdown I set about a ‘deep’ underbody and chassis clean removing all the mud and crud the previous owner did not see.
As with most things the job is getting a little out of hand as I have a lot of surface corrosion and when using the jet washer in the chassis rails 12 years of sh1t begrudgingly came out, so I have two challenges/areas of advice:
Outer chassis Corrosion, my plan is to take this back in the major scabby areas to the metal and coat with ‘something’, current thoughts are XCP, waxoyl, hammerite, undersell etc.... Thoughts?
Chassis Rail, thinking of plugging the wholes and coating with either waxoyl, dinitrol etc..... Thoughts?
I’m basically looking to tidy it up and prevent the grot spreading rather than a full on rebuild..... not sure these are ever going to be sought after classics but I could be wrong!!
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Current Fleet:
1968 Wolseley 1000
2022 BMW 430xd MHT Coupe
2007 L200 Animal - Dog walking transport
1998 318is Coupe
2007 Mini Cooper Supercharged
1989 BMW 530 - in storage
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shin2chin
Part of things
Making curse word cars slightly better
Posts: 820 
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Everyone will have a different opinion on this but this is what I generally do.
Remove any failing underseal
Remove any rust with twisted wire wheel on a grinder
Rust convertor of your choice
Paint with stonechip aerosol
Top coat with Dinitrol 4941
Inside cavities sprayed full of Dinitrol ML or Tetroseal wax oil and old oil mixed
Would steer clear of the tar like underseal as I have seen rust spread loads under it. I've been using Dinitrol for a good 10 years and have been very happy with it.
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1977 PORSCHE 2.0na 924
1974 VW Beetle 1600
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Ok - Clean your rusty areas has described Apply Bilt Hambers Hydrate 80 - this is superb product for converting any outstanding areas of rust - can be brushed on Apply a good quality etching primer over the Hydrate 80 or any bare metal areas (Bilt Hamber's 'Etch Weld' is very good) Apply Dinitrol ML cavity wax to any cavity sections / box sections / behind the plastic wheelarch liners Apply Dinitrol 4941 underbody wax - can be sprayed on with a shultz type gun or comes in aerosol format - if you are doing a complete vehicle you will be much better with a compressor / airline / Shultz gun set up - the product can also be applied to axles / drivetrain / suspension Further info with images from a vehicle that I have recently undertaken this procedure upon forum.retro-rides.org/thread/211436/1952-jowett-javelin-finished-completed?page=38I undertake professional restorations - the above products have formed a cornerstone upon which I base my work upon and have never given me any issues in the last 10 years that I have used them (on many, many vehicles) The recommended products are also fully field & laboratory tested with full data to back the products - there are countless other anti rust / chassis treatment products that make all sorts of claims out there - 99% of which cannot provide any technical data or proof of the claims / reliability - Should you wish to do it once & do it right - you cant go wrong with the above recommendations A few product stockists rejel.com/rust-proofing/?sort=alphaascwww.frost.co.uk/?s=dinitrol+&post_type=productwww.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/By all means post up any further questions that you have on the subject and I will get back to you - Chris |
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Battenberg
Part of things
Time for Cake....
Posts: 744
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Ok - Clean your rusty areas has described Apply Bilt Hambers Hydrate 80 - this is superb product for converting any outstanding areas of rust - can be brushed on Apply a good quality etching primer over the Hydrate 80 or any bare metal areas (Bilt Hamber's 'Etch Weld' is very good) Apply Dinitrol ML cavity wax to any cavity sections / box sections / behind the plastic wheelarch liners Apply Dinitrol 4941 underbody wax - can be sprayed on with a shultz type gun or comes in aerosol format - if you are doing a complete vehicle you will be much better with a compressor / airline / Shultz gun set up - the product can also be applied to axles / drivetrain / suspension Further info with images from a vehicle that I have recently undertaken this procedure upon forum.retro-rides.org/thread/211436/1952-jowett-javelin-finished-completed?page=38I undertake professional restorations - the above products have formed a cornerstone upon which I base my work upon and have never given me any issues in the last 10 years that I have used them (on many, many vehicles) The recommended products are also fully field & laboratory tested with full data to back the products - there are countless other anti rust / chassis treatment products that make all sorts of claims out there - 99% of which cannot provide any technical data or proof of the claims / reliability - Should you wish to do it once & do it right - you cant go wrong with the above recommendations A few product stockists rejel.com/rust-proofing/?sort=alphaascwww.frost.co.uk/?s=dinitrol+&post_type=productwww.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/By all means post up any further questions that you have on the subject and I will get back to you - Chris Thanks Chris, I’m hoping to get time this weekend to start pulling the wheel liners out and clean the mud/grot away and let it dry with the weather being good, thanks for your offer of reaching out, much appreciated. Alisdair |
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Current Fleet:
1968 Wolseley 1000
2022 BMW 430xd MHT Coupe
2007 L200 Animal - Dog walking transport
1998 318is Coupe
2007 Mini Cooper Supercharged
1989 BMW 530 - in storage
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