benjy_b
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 409
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Jun 14, 2019 10:19:44 GMT
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Hi all, I’m wanting to purchase my first step drill bit.
Can anyone advise what would be the best brand/type to buy?
I’m wanting to drill up to 5mm mild steel, but predominantly 2-2.5mm.
Having had a quick look, they vary massively in price.
Thanks in advance.
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2005 Subaru Forester 2.5XT
1999 BMW E36 318i Touring with OM605 Mercedes Engine
1996 Lada Riva with Honda S2000 Engine
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Jun 14, 2019 12:46:06 GMT
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Yes - prices on ebay are all over the place. I have one with a zillion sizes on it (up to 30mm), but I only ever use the 4mm - 12mm range. Considering, that you have to drill through all the sizes to get to the big holes, the initial ones (4mm and 6mm) would wear out quickest. You cant re-sharpen them, so you'll end up junking a big one like I bought. I think you're making the right choice by just getting one that does the smaller sizes. I simply buy the cheap ones off ebay now (4mm-6mm-8mm-12mm). They are about £2-£3 each and I'm keeping 2 or 3 in my drill bit box at a time. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332842234639 |
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luckyseven
Posted a lot
Owning sneering dismissive pedantry since 1970
Posts: 3,839
Club RR Member Number: 45
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Which step drill?luckyseven
@luckyseven
Club Retro Rides Member 45
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Jun 14, 2019 15:20:18 GMT
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In my experience, it's super-easy to blunt the first few (smallest) sizes of step and once that's happened, as petroholic says, you can't re-sharpen them. So you need to drill a pilot hole to get them started and that sort of defeats the purpose of a one-drill-bit-does-all device. I acquired a couple of blunted ones languishing in the bottom of my drillbit box before I decided they're an expensive conceit, because even the cheap ones aren't errr...cheap. Maybe if you pay ridiculous money you get ones that last forever, but not for me, ta. Fool me twice.... |
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Last Edit: Jun 14, 2019 15:21:23 GMT by luckyseven: making sense!
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Jun 14, 2019 15:44:02 GMT
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So nobody else thinks he's being a bit ambitious using a step drill on 2.5mm thick steel, let aline 5mm?
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Jun 14, 2019 16:24:58 GMT
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Erbauer 4-20mm £12.99 from Screwfix - haven't blunted it yet despite drilling stainless with it - unlike the £2.99 one from Lidl that went blunt after three holes in thin mild steel.
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benjy_b
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 409
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Jun 14, 2019 16:27:10 GMT
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Thank you for the replies. So nobody else thinks he's being a bit ambitious using a step drill on 2.5mm thick steel, let aline 5mm? I think this is the crucial point. I’m currently making an engine running stand out of 2.5, 3 & 5mm steel. One part of it requires drilling 10mm holes in 5mm sheet, which is for bolting the castors to. I’ve heard normal drill bits can cause oval holes in steel and step drills create a better hole. Would there be a better way of doing it? |
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2005 Subaru Forester 2.5XT
1999 BMW E36 318i Touring with OM605 Mercedes Engine
1996 Lada Riva with Honda S2000 Engine
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815 
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Which step drill?moglite
@moglite
Club Retro Rides Member 144
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Jun 14, 2019 16:33:45 GMT
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For something like that , just use regular HSS drill bits.
Save the step drill for where neatness, such as a switch panel is needed.
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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Jun 14, 2019 16:42:56 GMT
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Thank you for the replies. So nobody else thinks he's being a bit ambitious using a step drill on 2.5mm thick steel, let aline 5mm? I think this is the crucial point. I’m currently making an engine running stand out of 2.5, 3 & 5mm steel. One part of it requires drilling 10mm holes in 5mm sheet, which is for bolting the castors to. I’ve heard normal drill bits can cause oval holes in steel and step drills create a better hole. Would there be a better way of doing it? Normal twist drills don't make good holes in thin sheet metal, whereas a step drill with just one cutting edge can do a better job if you have space to use them. 2mm thick steel will take a normal drill without any problems, especially if you spot the location first. You are, of course, using properly sharpened drill bits And fitting castors doesn't require better holes than those that are marked out with a steel rule and a 10mm bit poked through them |
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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Which step drill?Phil H
@philhoward
Club Retro Rides Member 133
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Jun 14, 2019 19:50:21 GMT
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You’re almost at the size where a holesaw can be used..
Whichever way, get a can of drilling and cutting fluid - about £3 or 4 from Toolstation. Extends the life of drills (and jigsaw blades) exponentially. I was doing a job cutting holes in stainless panels - got through 3 drills and 4 jigsaw blades on the first one. With lube, I got the next 4 jobs done on one drill and one blade.
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fulvia1436
Club Retro Rides Member
Finally started a thread for my Fulvia life
Posts: 341
Club RR Member Number: 63
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Which step drill?fulvia1436
@fulvia1436
Club Retro Rides Member 63
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'59 Austin A40, '59 VW Beetle, '63 Mk1 Cortina, '57 Austin Gypsy, '68 Fiat 850 Coupe, '68 Alfa Duetto Spider, '72 Lancia Fulvia 1.3S, '73 Lancia 2000 Sedan ie., '72 Lancia 2000 Sedan, '67 Lancia Fulvia 1.3, '83 VW Passat GL5 Estate, '81 Volvo 245 Estate, '85 Lancia Thema 8V Turbo Estate, '99 Lancia Kappa 20V Turbo Estate, '00 VW Sharan VR6, '06 Fiat Multipla 1.9 JTD, '10 Fiat Multipla 1.9 JTD, '66 Lancia Fulvia 1.3
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Which step drill?slater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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You can resharpen them. It can be done with an angle grinder if youre careful..
These guys are right tho. Step drills are for sheet metal. Use a proper drill bit for anything over 3mmish.
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You can resharpen them. It can be done with an angle grinder if youre careful.. Have you got any pointers to more information on this? I've got a step drill where I've blunted the 10mm step, and it'd be handy to resurrect it if I can. |
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Which step drill?slater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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Jun 17, 2019 11:23:49 GMT
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Well you just have one or two straight flutes on them normally i think. Grind the flutes with a 3mm cutting disc or simlar and you can restore the cutting edge. Pay attention to the angle the flute is cut at to start with as this will effect how well it cuts. Bit like a lathe tool, same principles (That said the ideal angle is different depending on which material you cut so you have some leeway)
If the tool is really far gone on the 'corner' try tickling a bit off the corner all the way around its radius to stop it rubbing. It will still cut the hole the right size once your all the way through.
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