Mark
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,821
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May 30, 2019 16:33:37 GMT
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Just imported a nice, rust free BMW and keen to keep it that way. Please can someone advise on the best DIY way of preparing and painting the floor pan and the best budget products to use?   |
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BMW 320d (fridge on wheels)
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May 31, 2019 12:41:17 GMT
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Clean it back to sound metal, treat any rust you couldn't get off with converter, paint with a good paint, I like epoxy but everyone has a favourite, then coat in rust prevention wax (bilt hamber do one which sets fairly hard) and afterwards try to keep it dry.
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May 31, 2019 16:20:00 GMT
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First thing that I would do is check the underside and see what remedial work that requires (if any) long before worrying over what to do with the internal surface finish of the floor pan - but if its ok and requires no treatment - then has stated above clean it back - etch prime it - a good quality stone chip is not a bad idea has it carries sound deadening qualities - it also prevents carpet / underlays from slipping / moving about - avoid shiny paint finishes you are wasting your time - I would also avoid anything like Hamerite / very hard setting paints has these are very difficult to paint over once applied and do tend to crack open over longer periods
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at200
Part of things
Posts: 86
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I would invest £35 in a Black and Decker power file. It is the most used tool in our Saab restoration. Use it to strip off as much of the rust as you can. Get the blue belts cheapish on ebay.
If there is any left you can't reach, Bilt Hamber Deox Gel will dissolve it. Epoxy primer is good because it won't absorb moisture so you don't need to top coat it asap.
As said though, best check the underneath first. Any real rust will need cutting out and a patch welding. There is no point dealing with cosmetic internal rust if it is going through anywhere.
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Mark
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,821
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Thanks - will take a look.
Fortunately the only rust is in the pedal box, which is easily removed for repair. The floors, sills etc are solid as a rock.
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BMW 320d (fridge on wheels)
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I used rustins zinc primer when I did the wheel tubs in the back of my transit, thick but still easy to apply. I've only just undersealed the outer bits (they were done in September last year) and there's no chipping or cracking even in the area where the mudflaps were removed. I've since done the entire underside of the van in it and am undersealing over the weekend. www.toolstation.com/rustins-anti-corrosion-metal-primer/p84148 |
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madmog
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,158
Club RR Member Number: 46
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Since I'm going through a similar process myself on my W114, check if there's any leaks anywhere that let water into the floor pan in the first place. Ideally a hose pipe and try to make it leak since sorting it now will save heartache later.
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I use LPS3. Not budget but has kept the metal like new on my Escort for the last 30 years. Which ever method you use remember to check annually the floor is ok and reapply inhibitor as necessary. P.S Don't forget the cavities.
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