jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,841
Club RR Member Number: 40
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So the head on our spare 2.3 Land Rover engine has pitted exhaust valve seats. Can we get there using paste or are we going to have to get them machined ? Economically at 1000 miles / year the £350 for an unleaded conversion isn’t worth it to us so need to understand if we can get there at home. Please don’t just tell us to get the head converted regardless - we’ve spent the kitty on the engine. Photos to follow Thanks James
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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All depends how bad. I’ve rescused some poor A series ones with paste but it takes a while.
Can you still buy valve seat cutters?
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,841
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Before any paste/ after paste
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,841
Club RR Member Number: 40
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All depends how bad. I’ve rescused some poor A series ones with paste but it takes a while. Can you still buy valve seat cutters? Don’t know ! Will look, thanks james
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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Just looked on fleabay and they start at £20! How good they are I’ve no idea but probably worth a shot especially if they’ve only got to last 4 seats..
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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If the guides are still good then it'll probably be cheaper to get a engine shop to cut the seats than buy the tool yourself. If the guides are iffy get a small pot of diamond paste off eBay and lap them in as a seat cutter won't work unless the guides are good.
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I think by the time you have lapped those pit marks out with grinding paste,you will have lost the will to live...😉😂
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,841
Club RR Member Number: 40
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If the guides are still good then it'll probably be cheaper to get a engine shop to cut the seats than buy the tool yourself. If the guides are iffy get a small pot of diamond paste off eBay and lap them in as a seat cutter won't work unless the guides are good. That’s a good thought. Guides are very good but have the number of a couple of recommended machine shops here in Somerset. James
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,841
Club RR Member Number: 40
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I think by the time you have lapped those pit marks out with grinding paste,you will have lost the will to live...😉😂 I’ll get the boys on it - they need to learn ! Think the inlets are coming up ok with a little work I think. James
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Give the seats a good scrub with an old toothbrush and a solvent, once you think you have finished lapping. Quite often the grinding paste fills up the little pit marks, and a quick wipe with a rag doesn't remove it 😊
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I've lapped worse than that before. Coarse paste cuts thru that quick enough.
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Last Edit: Feb 4, 2019 8:59:59 GMT by sausage
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i had a quote recently , was £60 ish quid to recut them at a machine shop....be cheaper than having to pull the head again and do it right
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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I went through similar with my 2 1/4 land rover recently, I tried doing some "home fixes" ( granted my engine was in a very poor state though)..in the end I had to bite the bullet and get the whole thing machined and I ended up fully rebuilding the engine. I should have ignored the "home fix stage" as that wasted time and money on gaskets. I suppose it depends on how efficient you want the engine to be? as no doubt it probably run ok as it is, but if you want it to run even better and you are keeping it long term then I know what id do now, knowing what I went through.
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,841
Club RR Member Number: 40
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I went through similar with my 2 1/4 land rover recently, I tried doing some "home fixes" ( granted my engine was in a very poor state though)..in the end I had to bite the bullet and get the whole thing machined and I ended up fully rebuilding the engine. I should have ignored the "home fix stage" as that wasted time and money on gaskets. I suppose it depends on how efficient you want the engine to be? as no doubt it probably run ok as it is, but if you want it to run even better and you are keeping it long term then I know what id do now, knowing what I went through. The rest of the engine looks good - its a 5MB from a very early 110 with no wear visible on the bores etc. and has to be a whole chunk better than the leaky wheezy old thing in it at the moment ! Don't think its going anywhere for a year or two but at 1000 miles a year we can buy 4000 miles worth of additive for £25 so the maths where we have been quoted £350 ish for a full unleaded conversion doesn't make sense. Think we'll take a trip to the machine shop and cost other options up, its not far and would be interesting anyway ! It is cheap and easy to get the head off but better to fix properly and move on to the next job.... James
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The problem with doing heavy material removal with paste is you end up with two concave mating surfaces.
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^^ And your valve seating area becomes too wide. A decent three angled valve job reduces the width to what it should be...
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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It will run how it is now. You can lap away but if you continue to run it on unleaded it will just pit again so whats the point..
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,841
Club RR Member Number: 40
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