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Jan 13, 2019 23:01:20 GMT
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My latest project/runner is a 1998 1.6 base model MX5 NB. Manual windows, manual locking, cloth seats etc- no frills roofless motoring. I needed something local, very cheap (<£400 and on the road), a little different and which could be expected to be reasonably reliable. My shopping list narrowed down to a Ford Puma, MX5 or MGF. Having had the MGF before and suffered with overheating, I didn't really want to go there again. I also personally didn't enjoy the drive very much. So Puma or MX5. I'd have liked a MK1 MX5 again (had one about 5 years ago) but they are now moving into collector markets and too expensive for me. So - which ever came up for sale nearby...and the first was a NB MX5. The car as bought had a failed heater matrix and poor paint (having been resprayed outside and then been left out in rain). 3 months MOT but recent new roof and tyres, priced at £300 and 15 miles away. What could go possibly go wrong....  So, at home and a good root around the car showed reasonable arches and sills but catastrophic chassis rails. Interestingly, there is not a mention of any rust at all in the MOT history, which looks good on the DVLA website. I didn't take any pics of my rust but it looked exactly like this:  I decided to repair them myself sourcing repair chassis panels. Work took a long weekend and the panels were good quality so that everything lined up perfectly when reassembling. With no history, I also replaced the cambelt, waterpump, thermostat. This was reasonably straightforward with only a couple of sheared fastenings although the waterpump inlet housing pipe broke off. In the process of this work I also found leaking power steering cooling pipes, which have been replaced and for the moment have bypassed the failed heater matrix so the car can be driven. A couple of local 2002 year replacement seats were found and swapped in. The originals were Ok just showing tears from the seatbelt catching on the drivers side.     Cost? - £300 for the car, £70 for delivery, £70 for repair chassis panels, £30 for power steering cooling pipes, £13 for cambelt, £35 for waterpump, replacement seats £40. Plus consumables (welding wire, seam sealer, paint, coolant). Running costs circa £560 |
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Last Edit: Jan 27, 2019 22:42:39 GMT by doctor924
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I once repaired the chassis rails on a pals mx5 1.8 RS he had, it was nice and easy as the engine was out at the time getting rebuilt as it loved to burn oil
I think they are a great drive, one main tip I've got, if your going to thrash it change the rad out for an alloy one those plastic roads love cracking and the top popping off
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Last Edit: Jan 14, 2019 6:35:57 GMT by fordperv
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Yes repair is not as bad as you might think despite the rust being awful but given the market value of the NB I guess many are written off because of it.
Not going to be a thrashed car more of a lazy cruiser but thanks for the tip.
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Jan 27, 2019 18:12:41 GMT
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Small update.
Changed rear arb drop links- mine were shot.
Found a small hole in the OS rear sill which I'll need to get to, but at least I have heat in that cabin with the replacement heater matrix. Despite what the guides say, you can change this with the dashboard in situ, it's just hard on the back lying in the footwell.
I've also cut the rear paint on the car with 2500,1500grit and then cutting compounds . I managed to burn the paint in one area but much better now overall.
Running costs - £600 (ARB droplinks @ £12, heater matrix £20, 16mm water hose and clips £10).
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Last Edit: Jan 27, 2019 22:44:07 GMT by doctor924
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Jan 27, 2019 18:24:27 GMT
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Just getting my own NB1 on the road for Spring. Bookmarked.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Jan 27, 2019 20:09:40 GMT
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My sister-in-law had a mk1 - great drive but not the most reliable! Changed the rad as the plastic caps parted company, and the sloshing noise on cornering turned out to be sills full of water where the drains had been crushed closed. Stuck a screwdriver in them, twisted them to open the drain holes back open and watched best part of a gallon come out of each side...
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1968 Cal Look Beetle - 2007cc motor - 14.45@93mph in full street trim
1970-ish Karmann Beetle cabriolet - project soon to be re-started.
1986 Scirocco - big plans, one day!
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Paul
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,909
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Jan 27, 2019 20:27:57 GMT
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These are proper bargain basement now...v. tempted to pick up a MK2 1.8 and an eBay turbo kit for funsies...
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Bolf
Part of things
Posts: 507 
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Jan 27, 2019 21:18:28 GMT
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I fancy one of these with a lift kit and knobbly tyres and sump guards  |
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norm75
Part of things
Posts: 658
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Jan 28, 2019 19:40:04 GMT
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Not long sold our 2000 model 1.8s nb. Good car, had it about 4 years. Engines are non interference, which is nice, and also designed to take a turbo so it's almost a bolt on and go job.
Chassis rails, seemed to be worse for rot on the post facelift nb's for some reason, but a lot escape the attention of the mot inspector because the area they usually go is hidden by an engine undertray, which mot man isn't allowed to remove.
Good car for £300.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Jan 28, 2019 19:45:29 GMT
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These MX-5 NBs are a bit of a bargain as long as you're not fussy about spec. With good NAs climbing more and more, this is the way to go IMHO for MX-5 thrills. The styling I was never a fan of but they have mellowed with time.
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Jan 28, 2019 22:47:09 GMT
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Just getting my own NB1 on the road for Spring. Bookmarked. details? |
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Jan 28, 2019 22:50:34 GMT
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Chassis rails, seemed to be worse for rot on the post facelift nb's for some reason, but a lot escape the attention of the mot inspector because the area they usually go is hidden by an engine undertray, which mot man isn't allowed to remove. Good car for £300. I read it's because in order to meet crash standards, the front chassis rails were double skinned (other manufacturers did the same and they have similar problems). So water gets into the rail and the rusting inner skin forces through the outer skin. Yes there are two undertrays fitted - but clearly a problem if such shocking rust goes un-noticed. |
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Jan 28, 2019 23:14:24 GMT
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Just getting my own NB1 on the road for Spring. Bookmarked. details? It's a '99 JDM Roadster 10AE (7500 rev limit/6 speed/Lsd/ Bilstein) low miles and o.k to good overall but five times the cost of your bargain. I would have been just as happy with a base version, I'll only be using it for touring and some daily driving. Still, they are a great value for money no matter if they cost a tenner or two grand. I've no complaints even if I had reservations after buying it - first true convertible sports car. Haven't really used it yet, target date is mid March. Good luck with yours, I'll keep an eye on this thread. |
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Last Edit: Jan 28, 2019 23:30:13 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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I've heard of those versions - and that iirc they are the ones ' to have'...very nice.
Are the chassis rails OK? my reading suggests the only ones likely to be OK here are the Japanese imports like yours.
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norm75
Part of things
Posts: 658
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Is it a JDM rs by any chance?
If so they are pretty sought after, when 5 times the price of op's car is still good for an rs.
First thing to do is waxoil it underneath, because it won't have had any protection at the factory.
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Jan 29, 2019 12:13:56 GMT
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I've heard of those versions - and that iirc they are the ones ' to have'...very nice. Are the chassis rails OK? my reading suggests the only ones likely to be OK here are the Japanese imports like yours. I really don't know if the likes of a 10AE or an RS make a whole lot of difference in the real world being candid, personally I wouldn't pay much of a premium for them. After all the essence of the 5 is it's a good handling convertible sports car and no matter what version you get they're all that . Yeah, the chassis legs are almost perfect but I still waxed them and the sills too. |
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Jan 29, 2019 12:23:23 GMT
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Is it a JDM rs by any chance? If so they are pretty sought after, when 5 times the price of op's car is still good for an rs. First thing to do is waxoil it underneath, because it won't have had any protection at the factory. Yes, JDM but not an RS. Both the 10AE & the RS are very similar if not the same mechanically both there's some other differences. I'm really unsure what those are. All I know is the 10AE came with unique paint, wheels, trim, stereo (I think) plus some other bits & bobs. Waxing in progress. |
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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norm75
Part of things
Posts: 658
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Jan 29, 2019 12:40:58 GMT
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Is it a JDM rs by any chance? If so they are pretty sought after, when 5 times the price of op's car is still good for an rs. First thing to do is waxoil it underneath, because it won't have had any protection at the factory. Yes, JDM but not an RS. Both the 10AE & the RS are very similar if not the same mechanically both there's some other differences. I'm really unsure what those are. All I know is the 10AE came with unique paint, wheels, trim, stereo (I think) plus some other bits & bobs. Waxing in progress. ah, 10th anniversary edition? Dark blue mica with polished/chromed wheels? |
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Jan 29, 2019 12:46:13 GMT
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You got it.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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