steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,565
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A slightly modern question, sorry.
My Transit need a new clutch and flywheel and Ford in their wisdom, ahve made it so you have to remove the front subframe to get the gearbox out.
The rear bolt goes through the wishbone bush but it's stuck in the steel insert and won't come undone, yet.
I would rather not have to replace the suspension bush if I end up twisting the bonded bit out and was wondering if anyone had had a similar problem and just cut the bolt head off, levered the subframe down, off the bolt and then delt with the remains of the bolt afterwards ?
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wildy
Part of things
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When I've done these previously I have cut bolts on some. I would usually replace lower arms and bolts as well. Bushes wear out/tear on Transits and if it has been on there long enough for the bolt to rust in, it probably needs replacing. Also they are not massively expensive. I've also had them strip the captive out of the chassis but at least Ford had the good grace to leave a hole large enough to get in with a socket on a bar. Always seems to be the offside that gives problems, Ive never cut a nearside one.
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,565
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Hi, yes it is the off side one. I've run out of time and money so need to save as much as I can an the moment. I don't need it untill next weekend but with the bank holiday it gives me a lot less time to get any extra bits I need.
I might cut it if it doesn't undo tomorrow using the longer breaker bar I bought. If all else fails I could just drill the remains of the bolt out of the captive nut and put a new nut on the top but thats a bit of a bodge. I might try giving the steel bit of the bush a bit of a bash and see if it loosens anything.
Thanks.
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wildy
Part of things
Posts: 134
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Well you can get at the captive through the cut out in chassis, so at least you can start by soaking that in penetrating fluid. Not sure that the bolt will be salvageable anyway. The ones I have seen stuck tend to be very thin/weak looking once out. I would get a spare/new bolt ready.
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,565
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I gave them all a good squirt of WD40 earlier so that might help. Hopefully one of the local dealers might have some bolts although they are about £10 each.
I will update this tomorrow when I get a chance.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,197
Club RR Member Number: 170
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It's a pain when that happens! But Ford aren't the only ones, and not for years
-Porsche requires the rear subframe (read suspension being a torsion bar setup), gearbox, exhaust and torque tube to get to the clutch on a 924S or 944. I suspect a 928 is the same.
-MGB and MG Midget are better to do the clutch in if you remove the engine; the gearbox can only come out via the engine bay on both thanks to non-moveable crossmembers sort of taking a reciprocating saw to the crossmembers.
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,565
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Just ordered some bolts from the local dealers so I have something to bolt it back together with.
It all started well didn't actually, when the starter motor wouldn't engage. That had been replaced at some point before I bought the van. I took it out to see what was going on and noticed it or the previous one had munched quite a few teeth off the ring gear. This led to buying a new solid flywheel and clutch.
Good job I did as the dual mass is starting to make a bid for freedom !
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Bolts rusted into suspension bush tubes rarely come undone without heat, which of course means a new bush. Turning it will just split the tube from the rubber. Although my experience is on 40+ year old Vauxhalls. I've used a hacksaw blade in a handle before now, where there's clearance between the wishbone and the subframe sides, and cut through the bolt flush with the tube. Maybe once you did that, you could drill out enough of the old bolt to salvage the bush, if there's clearance in the first place.
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unfortunately it is a very common problem on Fords even only after a few years, they seem to really cheap out on corrosion resistance plating.
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,565
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I think the car fixing gods have been looking out for me today. The stuck bolt did finally start moving after a bit of a heave on the new breaker bar and then came undone quite easily. Perhaps it's just me getting a bit weak !
Managed to get the gearbox out and nasty flywheel off and get completely covered in black dust. I was shocked at the amount of crusty crud on the back of the engine and there was nearly as much in the bellhousing. I probably spent about an hour chipping it away.
With everything ready (I hope) most of it will go back together tomorrow.
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wildy
Part of things
Posts: 134
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Stick your finger in the end of the crank and check the pilot bearing if the flywheel was badly knackered. I have replaced these previously when the flywheel has let go.
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Those bolts are realy tight, if I remember correctly around 270nm on the older transits and torque plus angle on the newer ones.
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,565
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I ended up fitting a new rear main oil seal, not a Ford one for £100 though and put it all back together. The pilot bearing looked OK. Although there was some movement on the flywheel I don't think it was all that bad compared with some I have seen posted up on Youtube. Hopefully I won't regret not changing it. The clutch works OK but due to less than speedy delivery of a new gear for the starter motor I haven't run it yet.
With any luck it will turn up on Tuesday.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,197
Club RR Member Number: 170
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The Ford ones IIRC for £80ish are actually a frame in which the seal sits; it's not as simple as some rear mains to change.
Fair play for sticking it out.
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I've managed to undo a bolt from a captive nut that has sheared off using a ball joint splitter between body and subframe, it pulls the captive nut down and jams it against the broken welds as you hammer the wedged splitter inbetween, thus it can then be undone. Usually a bit of heat and loose oil helps if you can get into it. Mostly this was removing subframe from scrap car so putting a new bolt in there might require cutting bit off chassis if there isn't an access hole.
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