ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,637
Club RR Member Number: 225
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Just rebuilt my C20XE motor, new forged pistons/rings, rebored block, new big end and main bearings.  Reading up it seems getting the engine under load as soon as possible seems to be the accepted method of bedding in the new rings. I'll be using Millers running in oil for the break-in period, will be turning it over without plugs before initial start to get oil up to pressure and circulated round.. The only worry I have is that as the carbs have been off they'll be out of balance and probably need some tweaking to get the engine running good enough to drive so on initial start up it could be just idling for a while as I adjust them, not sure whether this will do the engine any good. Any hints or tips or preferred method of bedding everything in properly? |
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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The, it's the idling you want to avoid really. If it will run and drive get it out and drive straight away. That or so the bare minimum of tweekening beforehand.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Also you don't say what carbs they are but the balance is of little importance for the first running in. Otherwise the setup shouldn't have changed anyway? Same jets etc no?
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Did you scour the bore before assembly? .If not they will never bed in
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,637
Club RR Member Number: 225
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Also you don't say what carbs they are but the balance is of little importance for the first running in. Otherwise the setup shouldn't have changed anyway? Same jets etc no? Twin Weber DCOE, technically shouldn't be too far out but can't guarantee bolting them back in exact position they were before and the idle was set for a poorly engine.... Hoping it'll fire up no problem but nothing ever goes smoothly with this car  |
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,637
Club RR Member Number: 225
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Did you scour the bore before assembly? .If not they will never bed in Bores were honed after rebore if that's what you mean? |
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tofufi
South West
Posts: 1,454
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I did about 15 miles of accelerating and engine braking to bed in my rings. Then did 80 miles to RRG the following day, at pretty much top speed  |
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,637
Club RR Member Number: 225
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The trouble is I'm in town so I can't just take it out and drive hard as I've got to sit idling in traffic for a while before I can get anywhere, although doing in an evening might solve that problem.....
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fulvia1436
Club Retro Rides Member
Finally started a thread for my Fulvia life
Posts: 341 
Club RR Member Number: 63
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Did you scour the bore before assembly? .If not they will never bed in Bores were honed after rebore if that's what you mean? If the bores were "flexhoned", it will not require lengthy running in. Flexhoning gives a 45deg crosshatch with the correct finish for good wear rate and oil retention. Highly recommended! |
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'59 Austin A40, '59 VW Beetle, '63 Mk1 Cortina, '57 Austin Gypsy, '68 Fiat 850 Coupe, '68 Alfa Duetto Spider, '72 Lancia Fulvia 1.3S, '73 Lancia 2000 Sedan ie., '72 Lancia 2000 Sedan, '67 Lancia Fulvia 1.3, '83 VW Passat GL5 Estate, '81 Volvo 245 Estate, '85 Lancia Thema 8V Turbo Estate, '99 Lancia Kappa 20V Turbo Estate, '00 VW Sharan VR6, '06 Fiat Multipla 1.9 JTD, '10 Fiat Multipla 1.9 JTD, '66 Lancia Fulvia 1.3
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tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990
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Acceleration to push the Rings out to bed in,and deceleration to suck some oil onto them, that's what I did on my Gti. And lots of brisk driving. I tried not to leave it running for long periods at the same rpm if on the motorway, I'd give it the beans on occasion.
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Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
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