cjhillman
Posted a lot
1979 Capri (Rolling Project) 1985 Escort mk3 (Daily)
Posts: 1,588
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I've noticed lately my Escort 1.1 ohv is occasionally running slightly rough. When driving along gradually accelerating/keeping a steady speed, it feels very slightly lumpy (only slightly) but, sometimes when you get into 2nd gear and give it some, it really hesitates then goes and hesitates again until you get into 3rd. Other times its fine! i'm wondering if it could be a bad coil or something to do with the carb? last year the spark plugs, HT leads, dizzy cap & rotor arm were all changed so, i thought maybe thats the last in the electrical chain? It runs a manual VV carb too which used to be a bit of a pain until a garage adjusted it slightly and it seems a lot better these days. I also put redex in to see if that helped for what its worth... no change though. What do we think? - Coils seem about £20 on Ebay and i thought of getting one incase it went bad on a drive. Also i don't want to spend £20 in the wrong place when other things need doing and i don't know if these coils would be of quality: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-NGK-Ignition-Coil-For-FORD-Escort-MK-3-1-1-Estate-Hatchback-1980-83/381253959377?epid=1950620311&hash=item58c481bed1:g:AuMAAOSw6BtVTQnj - Webber carbs for this model seem quite rare and more expensive, so don't want to go down that road if i can help it as its generally ok. Chris |
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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.When I had a similar issue it turned out to be the base plate of the dizzy was intermittently sticking. You don’t say if it’s still on points or electronic ignition so I’d start with a new set of points and condenser if it’s not been upgraded to a magic sparky box. Back in the 70’s that kind of issue was nearly always dud points or weak condenser.
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,565
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My first check would be to take the plugs out and see what they like.
Don't rule out a problem with the engine electrics. As an example I fitted a set of leads on my Volvo just in case and ended up putting the old ones back on.
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I had the same issue on my zx tt- checked maf, coils and plugs and it turned out to be a partially blocked filter..
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Fuel pump, filter or blockage in fuel lines perhaps?
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i'd check points gap, that will usually cause those issues if the gap isn't opening far enough. Timing could be out too, its not advancing enough under load.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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If it were me I'd check the following in this order. -Compression ; it's an old car now and there is a chance the valves have gone. I'd do this first before looking elsewhere or replacing anything! The fact that you say it runs lumpy isn't a good sign. -Clearances; If the compression is out the valve clearances *may* save you. But it's a good idea to check them and adjust anyway for the price of a rocker gasket. -Ignition. IME coils very rarely fail but are often the first things to be changed. If it were me I'd check your points gap, see whether the ignition advance is working for both mechanical and vacuum. It the dizzy is not smooth in operation it may be time for a new dizzy. What brand of stuff did he use? If it's Intermotor I'd bin the lot and fit NGK/Bosch items. I've once had an Intermotor rotor arm give me no end of trouble, down to pickup and cutting out issues. hoopsontoast has too. -Fuel. My gut feeling is it's possibly fuel related and down to the carb; there is a reason why many aren't on VVs anymore. But it could be pump related too. I'd also check for vacuum leaks from all sources. In truth it could be all manor of things. I also wouldn't rule out a blocked breather on a fuel tank. They can cause all sorts of hard to trace issues, especially if on a mechanical fuel pump retrorides.proboards.com/thread/198747/running-problem-cutting-out-speed |
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Last Edit: May 5, 2018 8:37:13 GMT by ChasR
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I did my apprenticeships at 4 point garage in Feltham, so happens it was a Ford Dealership, I remember changing a lot of diaphragms on the side of vv carbs, they used to go wrong when the cars were new and newish, easy job to do and you might find the part available,good luck!
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MK2 Cortina Estate
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May 11, 2018 15:24:49 GMT
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If the carb is a weber 32 take of the air cleaner engine Not running. Look down the carb and manually move the throttle. As it open you should see a burst of fuel shoot out the accelerator jet. If it splutters or is inconsistent flow you Could have a blocked accelerator jet or a badly worn or leacking Pump diaphram mounted on the side of your carb. a cheap repair.I've Just overhauled one. Not a difficult job and cost around 25.00
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cjhillman
Posted a lot
1979 Capri (Rolling Project) 1985 Escort mk3 (Daily)
Posts: 1,588
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Hey all, sorry i never replied to these comments. I took it all on board, the problem went away and i kind of forgot about it all... until now! It seems like it might be back worse than before though. This week i took the car to Sheffield and left it on a friends Drive for a couple of days while we played shows around the country then, Thursday night i was driving from Sheffield to London at about 11pm and this problem was back with a vengeance !!! If i accelerated softly it wasnt really a problem but trying to overtake the car would judder if it was 20mph or 70mph!! at traffic lights it would idle rough and need a little bit of choke. I didnt stop the whole trip with fear of it not kicking up again and needing to be back in London the next morning (havent driven the car since) I checked it out before to see what i could find under the bonnet and once warm enough, the idle was normal with just a slight dip (you can hear it in the video below) The Leads, Plugs and Distributer Cap all came from Halfords and did make a massive difference at the imte. I don't remember the makes unfortunately but, It used to run really rough and the garage messed with the carb at an MOT to get it to keep running early last year i think. once they did that it ran better but it was chaning the Electrical components that really made it nice and smooth... until now. As many of you asked before its Electronic ignition on a VV Carb and its coming up to 45000 miles (pretty certain its genuin) Its the last year of 1.1 Mk3's so on a C plate. Also, as much as i love my Cars i'm a bit of a noob unless i can see something hanging off... I had a look today and had this idea it could be a split in one of the tubes as i can hear the car sucking a lot of air when ticking over... i'm not sure if this is normal though. Never really noticed it until now but not saying it hasnt always sounded this way. Nothing changed when moving the tubes around as a test but i thought i would ad this video anyway. I started looking for fuel filters and noticed a Filter type connector coming from the advance and retard? that says DPST on it. I'm struggling to find info on what this is or if i should replace it?  The second filter is an Inline fuel filter on the bulkhead. Not sure if i should try and swap this out. or how i should go about it? Can this be crimped either end and removed ?? Or would it just pull out without leaking fuel everywhere?  - If it is the Carb can i only tell by eliminating everything else?? - How would you check the Distributor withought just replacing it? or the Cap? - Would i be able to check the fuel pump? I'm not shy of having a go and definitely hoping to not take it to a garage!! i just had to pay £240 for 2 wheel bearings here in London!!  where i had to wait 3 weeks for my wheels bearings to be sorted 1 week to get the car in and 2 to get it back Its my main car now so could do with getting it sorted... and i'm really up for taking this into my own hands until i cant get any further with it. |
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Last Edit: Jul 7, 2018 18:15:01 GMT by cjhillman
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I've had a couple of similar issues in the past, and been convinced each time it was a fuelling issue, as it 'felt' like it...but for me it's always been ignition related!
I would check/replace the basics like - dissy cap, rotor arm, points & condenser and see if it's any better. If not, you've got spares :-). I know you said they were replaced a year ago, but the quality of some spares isn't great, so no guarantee they aren't the cause.
A while ago my capri was hesitating when warm and then started struggling up hills...it was the rotor arm.
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Last Edit: Jul 7, 2018 18:35:11 GMT by sarkie83
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cjhillman
Posted a lot
1979 Capri (Rolling Project) 1985 Escort mk3 (Daily)
Posts: 1,588
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In terms of fuel filter... any makes to look out for? i'm just using Ebay at the moment  |
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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The “filter” with DPST on it is actually an advance delay unit (stops sudden vacuum changes confusing the distributor). Hence, it says “DIST” in that end and probably CARB on the other..
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cjhillman
Posted a lot
1979 Capri (Rolling Project) 1985 Escort mk3 (Daily)
Posts: 1,588
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The “filter” with DPST on it is actually an advance delay unit (stops sudden vacuum changes confusing the distributor). Hence, it says “DIST” in that end and probably CARB on the other.. Cheers! wasnt sure what it was... I'm assuming everything is so low tech on my car that it could have been a filter. |
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cjhillman
Posted a lot
1979 Capri (Rolling Project) 1985 Escort mk3 (Daily)
Posts: 1,588
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where i had to wait 3 weeks for my wheels bearings to be sorted 
