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Fiesta ST150 Addvicepeteh1969
@peteh1969
Club Retro Rides Member 107
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Apr 27, 2018 19:01:34 GMT
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Hi All I recently purchased (less than a grand) a Mk6 Fiesta 2.0L Duratec (MI4) ST 150 mainly to have as a fun car and to use as a daily if and when my Mk2 TDI Focus cannot be used due to emissions or road tax changes, it was sold with an engine that smokes on start up, I checked the oil and found the oil level well over the max level on the dipstick, so ok oil & filter change and see how it goes  One of the things I may need to do on my is a Head gasket as it appears to be allowing water to mix with the oil when it's up to temp and pressurized I have done a compression test and all for cylinders is between 150 and 180 it starts and runs lovely, when I changed the oil on it about two weeks ago after running it up to temp when I removed the sump plug out came a load of water and oil, when new oil and filter in it at the correct level it stopped smoking, but how did the water get in the engine. Could it be the oil cooler as there are no leaks any where on the engine? I have the full kit of new parts timing chain gears, oil pump chain, tensioners, seals, gaskets, compounds and head bolts I even have a copy of the ford manual for the car. My main question is for those who have done this job before is this: Is it easier to do with the engine in the car or take it out and off the gearbox for ease of access? I plan to tale the front bumper off and the rads out so I can clean everything properly regardless of weather I do it in the car or out. All thoughts and info most help full? |
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Last Edit: Apr 27, 2018 19:29:05 GMT by peteh1969
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Mate, I am as useless as an ashtray on a motorbike when it comes to your car but just telling you;...awesome car mate
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,307
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Fiesta ST150 AddviceChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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I'll double check but I don't think the Duratec HE came with an oil-to-water heat exchanger. The truth is you don't know what the previous owner did.
Is the coolant itself OK? If so I'd carry on and see what happens.
I normally wouldn't be too funny about compression readings. But I do know that Duratec-HEs have solid tappets, which need shimming every 10 years or 100,000 miles. It's something many garages overlook due to the work involved. But that can give uneven readings and can make a pleasant difference to how they pull. If you are really unlucky it can be burnt out valves but I've only ever seen that on LPG cars despite having FlashLube as well as hearing about it from some other owners, probably from skipping the above advice about the shimming.
It's not the only car with them FWIW; Stags have this design as do slant 4 Triumphs and many more. My M3 has a different version of that which again many people shy away from doing due to its awkwardness.
BUT, I've seen many caught in time, far more than have failed. The Duratec-HE is a great and solid engine. Keep it on good filters, and a diet of 5W30 Ford spec oil in addition to decent coolant, preferably the Ford 10 year stuff, and those engines can clock massive numbers. We've taken one to 380k from 77k without every taking the engine apart, and the second one we took from 133k to 324k.
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Last Edit: Apr 28, 2018 7:33:56 GMT by ChasR
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if you are wanting to clean up the front end and kill any rot, I'd be dropping the whole subframe out with engine and gearbox attached. It makes doing the timing belt/chain a piece of cake on most FWD cars, and allows you to have a good look around the engine and clean up/paint anything, should you want to.
Just make sure to take pictures and label everything before unplugging, work systematically, and it's not that hard.
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Last Edit: Apr 28, 2018 7:40:46 GMT by sciclone
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Fiesta ST150 Addvicepeteh1969
@peteh1969
Club Retro Rides Member 107
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The ST does have an oil cooler (see below) and when I drained the oil I found that at least 4 Ltr's of that was Water as well as the 4.3 ltr's of the engine oil that should of been in it.  The water is not draining in to the oil system as it has been sat for two weeks while I wait for parts and the water level has not changed nor has the oil level so it's only can be getting in under pressure when the cooling system is sealed. |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,307
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Fiesta ST150 AddviceChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Apr 28, 2018 23:25:07 GMT
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If it's cheap I'd change that and see what happens. You may even be able to test the old item.
Oh, and I'd check the valve clearances as per above. Ford FWIW made a harder valve seated head for the E85 able Focus FFV (Flex Fuel Vehicle) which for me only spells out the criticallness of the clearance check.
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Fiesta ST150 Addvicepeteh1969
@peteh1969
Club Retro Rides Member 107
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Apr 28, 2018 23:44:37 GMT
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I have a full copy of the Ford manual and it states the Mk6 ST is not set up to run on E85 and should not be run on E85 under any circumstances I will check the clearances.
I will be testing the old cooler after I have a replacement.
Thanks. |
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Last Edit: Apr 28, 2018 23:45:33 GMT by peteh1969
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Apr 29, 2018 13:26:36 GMT
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Those oil/water heat exchangers definitely can leak - and do - as many a VAG owner can testify. However, they normally leak the other way - oil into the water, for the very good reason that the oil pressure is much higher than the water pressure.
If you are persistently getting coolant into the oil, but only when running, for me the suspects are
- If there are any water-ways in the inlet manifold - possible gasket problems
- Head gasket
- If wet liner engine (??) liner base seals
- Casting crack, head or block.
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Fiesta ST150 Addvicepeteh1969
@peteh1969
Club Retro Rides Member 107
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Apr 29, 2018 13:44:52 GMT
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Thanks for your thoughts Nick. I will be checking through things as I go but I will start with the oil cooler, just in-case I can save time but it may be more serious, I have plenty of time at the moment so no rush unless Chris get my Corsair done in week, knowing how he works he can move mountains but even he cannot create a miracle.  |
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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Fiesta ST150 AddvicePhil H
@philhoward
Club Retro Rides Member 133
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Apr 29, 2018 19:19:45 GMT
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Unless I’ve missed this in the story so far - is it possible the engine was (one time only) topped up with coolant or screenwash?
It’s been done before by an owner who would rather sell a car for scrap than admit making such a daft mistake...
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Fiesta ST150 Addvicepeteh1969
@peteh1969
Club Retro Rides Member 107
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Apr 29, 2018 20:26:24 GMT
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Phill
I do not know but but on the evening it was delivered (on a transporter) the Beast from the East had just landed so a few days after and I could get a look at it I found there was no water in the header tank and the lower return pipe was off the header tank, so when it was a bit warmer weather I topped it up and and ran it up ready for changing the oil, then I found where the water had gone.
At no time did any water/yogurt show on the dipstick just High oil level, so I was thinking sum numpty had just over filled the oil as the engine was smoking only on start up.
And you are up to date.
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Fiesta ST150 Addvicepeteh1969
@peteh1969
Club Retro Rides Member 107
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Jun 14, 2018 12:21:55 GMT
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Well bit of an update. I managed to get hold of another oil cooler and it came with the mounting adapter which I then had Vapour blasted, I cleaned of and painted the cooler then reassembled and refitted the unit to the engine block, with a new crush metal gasket, reconnecting both water pipes to the cooler first.      Having drained the new oil I put in at the end of April that had about 2 ltr's of water in it after only 5 mins of running. Well instead of putting the sump plug back in I left it out no oil in the engine and refiled the cooling system with just water and waited while all the air bled out then I just listened and after a while I heard a drip sound in the bowl under the engine so I looked to see a constant drips of water coming out of the sump. So the next stage is to strip the engine and get the head off to what possible horrors await me. I'm using an engine manual for the Mazda L8 LF L3 for the disassembly as the Ford manual I have seams to have left out all the crucial info for the order disassembly/reassembly. The car cost less than a grand and £140 for the parts needed to change the head gasket my time costs nothing so I'm still in pocket and will have a fun car when it's done. I must say I have found it easier to get parts for my Corsair than the ST it seams that Ford have not allowed there suppliers to sell parts as after market, things like water hoses etc for once I can be grateful for eBay. |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,307
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Fiesta ST150 AddviceChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Jun 14, 2018 14:04:39 GMT
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The hoses can be tricky to form. IME alot of pattern hoses bar established silicon producers can be curse word. Even Silicon peeps don't get it right always.
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Last Edit: Jun 14, 2018 14:06:22 GMT by ChasR
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