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When you said you have checked fuel pressure have you done this while trying to start it?
If it has a low flow rate (knackered pump, blockage) it will prime the system but be unable to keep up the pressure as the injectors open.
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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When you said you have checked fuel pressure have you done this while trying to start it? If it has a low flow rate (knackered pump, blockage) it will prime the system but be unable to keep up the pressure as the injectors open. yeah I've fitted a fuel pressure gauge. fuel pressure is as per the book and fuel pump, filter and pipes are new. Fitted the other alternator today but have a flat battery. It turned over but too slowly to start. Also fitted a better power steering pump while I was there. I've just remembered that there was a spare mass air flow meter with the car but it was a hotwire one. Maybe somebody found a fault with the maf and ordered the wrong part.. seeing as the weather looks a bit horrible tomorrow I think I'll take the maf to the shed and give it a bit of a test and inspect
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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I think the squealing alternator belt is trying to tell you something. Not quite sure what but as you haven't had smoke/flames it most likely involves fat wires!
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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Nov 10, 2018 10:05:19 GMT
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I think the squealing alternator belt is trying to tell you something. Not quite sure what but as you haven't had smoke/flames it most likely involves fat wires! Nick Yes I think so too. Have changed the alternator for a spare and need to charge the battery. There's something weird going on though as the old alternator isn't sized. It would be easier if there where smoke and flames!
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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Nov 10, 2018 13:35:29 GMT
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Sounds like the alternator is working really hard trying to charge a duff battery? with the eratic symptoms it sounds like voltage fluctuations somewhere and with all the ECU stuff they do like to see stable/constant voltages
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Nov 10, 2018 18:40:11 GMT
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I'd be suprised if it is the battery, I have jumpstarted mine from a completely flat battery with no problems, if it is power related it sounds more like something in the wiring such as a fuse, dodgy earth or loose connection somewhere, its pretty easy to check by taking the back of the plug off the ecu and putting a meter accross the live and earth.
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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Nov 10, 2018 19:11:36 GMT
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Well the flu has floored me today so not much work done This little lot turned up though So fitted that lot and put the battery on charge. Also changed the ecu temp sensor which is a pig! Turns out the old one was reading 10x what it should. Can't see that causing the engine to cut out though. I also found that the earth strap going from the starter to the chassis had burnt through insulation where it was touching the exhaust. I don't think that should cause any problems but I will remove the fat lead from the alternator to the starter solenoid and also the battery +ve to starter solenoid as I'm. Suspicious of both of those given the symptoms. Would have got that done today but the golf desperately needed a new fuel pump cam follower. Hopefully weather and flu permitting I may get more done tomorrow
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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Nov 10, 2018 19:48:22 GMT
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If you have a timing light you can check whether the ignition cuts out as the engine dies - if it's fuel then it will keep sparking as the engine grinds to a halt.
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Sometimes, others may not understand why you like a car so much. Sometimes, you may not even understand why you like a car so much. But none of that matters; all that matters is that you like the car, and having it makes you happy.
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Nov 10, 2018 21:40:44 GMT
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The temp sensor seems to have a far bigger effect than you would think, if I pull the plug off mine the engine won't idle at all. I think it is because it is basically a analogue system which uses the voltages from the temp and maf sensors modified by a series of resistors and transistors to drive the injector wheras digital systems will ignore obviously faulty signals or substitute surrogate values.
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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If you have a timing light you can check whether the ignition cuts out as the engine dies - if it's fuel then it will keep sparking as the engine grinds to a halt. Easier said than done with it cutting out before you can run round to the front. I did have a timing light out with me as I've had the dizzy out but can't get it running long enough to use at the moment
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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The temp sensor seems to have a far bigger effect than you would think, if I pull the plug off mine the engine won't idle at all. I think it is because it is basically a analogue system which uses the voltages from the temp and maf sensors modified by a series of resistors and transistors to drive the injector wheras digital systems will ignore obviously faulty signals or substitute surrogate values. Interesting. I suppose if the resistance is far enough out it'll adjust the fuelling until its far out enough to cut out or not fuel at all. I think there may be a multitude of faults. When I took the alternator off the belt had melted to the pully. The alternator was clearly putting a lot of work in so there must be a short either internally with that alternator or with the wire that goes to the starter solenoid. Or the wire to the battery +ve. Or something along those lines. I'm going to physically remove and check those cables today before I attempt another startup
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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It does sound like wiring or the battery. My tr7v8 had all sorts of strange charging issues it turned out to be a loose connection where the alternator main cable attached to the starter solenoid.
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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Nov 11, 2018 16:57:58 GMT
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It does sound like wiring or the battery. My tr7v8 had all sorts of strange charging issues it turned out to be a loose connection where the alternator main cable attached to the starter solenoid. You're on the right track Took both the batt positive lead out and the lead going from the alternator out. Found that on the starter solenoid end of the alternator cable, the ring terminal had a full depth crack across it which must have been giving a lot of resistance. Also found the same on the solenoid to ignition switch lead, which fell apart when removed. So hopefully that's solved the charging issue. The second thing I found is that the the distributor advance mechanism is stiff to the point that it doesn't return. I think what has happened here is that when i statically set the timing it was in a fully retarded position and then when started it started going to a fully advanced position. This explains why it would run for a few seconds and then rapidly deteriorate. Had a look in side and its all rusty and a rusty spade terminal fell out. So went to refit the original alternator and when putting a rotor arm on, noticed that the shaft had a lot of play in it. turns out there's a circlip missing, allowing the the rotor arm to float up and down to the point where it doesn't touch the contacts in the cap, which explains the original fault. Just my luck to have two duff distributors! The question now is whether to get a cheap chinese knockoff off of ebay, have one of the originals rebuilt or source a good second hand unit...either way this heap is costing me yet more money! I reckon this will do the trick www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Powerspark-35D-Electronic-Distributor-for-Late-Rover-V8-with-Ignition-Module/362003383881?epid=23021523579&hash=item5449154649:g:0TIAAOSwqoZa0L23:rk:2:pf:0
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Last Edit: Nov 11, 2018 17:03:12 GMT by ivangt6
1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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Nov 11, 2018 17:08:38 GMT
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...either way this heap is costing me yet more money! That's the rules...... think of what fun you are having (!) and how much more the depreciation on a modern would be costing you..... Sounds like progress is being made - the light at the end of the tunnel may actually be daylight! Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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Nov 11, 2018 17:23:36 GMT
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...either way this heap is costing me yet more money! That's the rules...... think of what fun you are having (!) and how much more the depreciation on a modern would be costing you..... Sounds like progress is being made - the light at the end of the tunnel may actually be daylight! Nick I'll be honest. I may have been on the verge of losing my s**t with it. Electrical faults do my head in. Although technically I suppose this is mechanical
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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Nov 11, 2018 18:58:12 GMT
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...either way this heap is costing me yet more money! That's the rules...... think of what fun you are having (!) and how much more the depreciation on a modern would be costing you..... Sounds like progress is being made - the light at the end of the tunnel may actually be daylight! Nick Or it could be a bloke with a torch that's found him some more work - lets hope not !
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Nov 11, 2018 20:48:35 GMT
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Nice progress in the troubleshooting. I bought a Powerspark distributor and it looks nice and worked fine but lasted 2 years (20000km). Then the ignition cut off from time to time. Parts inside the distributor are not interchangeble with original RR parts. I then fitted a used Range rover one and fitted the amplifier on the inner wing on a alu heatsink, away from the engine heat.
Peter
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Nov 11, 2018 21:27:14 GMT
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The first one I had on the TR was missing the circlip too, if you are carefull they work fine, but if you just pull the rotor arm without realising the advance mechanism falls to pieces, I suspect this jas happened to yours, If you strip it down it could just be a case of putting it all back together and finding a circlip.
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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Nov 13, 2018 14:14:59 GMT
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New Powerspark dizzy arrived today. Quick delivery and came well packaged However I paid cheap Cheap prices and that is what I've got. Built quality is clearly quite bad and there's a crack in the casting. But....I really need my car back so I'll chuck it in tomorrow and see how we go. If it goes pop I'll send off my old one for a rebuild
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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Nov 14, 2018 10:24:45 GMT
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bgger, does it go all the way through? seen fissures like that on alloy castings before which are not necessarily failures
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