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Dec 24, 2017 14:24:43 GMT
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Hi. I will be needing to do some loom cutting for my Toyota related project.
In anticipation of this I want to find the best way to do it.
At the moment I'm thinking non insulated butt ends. Crimp down then fill with solder.
Though if someone can point me in the direction of some smaller less agricultural butt ends than the usual red or pink ones. That would be ideal. I don't want my usual spade connectors and twist and solder techniques here. I want it to work and look neat.
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Nissan Laurel SOLD  BMW E34 Diesel SOLD  Toyota Soarer 4.0 V8 SOLD Audi A4 1995 TDI SOLD Peugeot 205 1.9 TD SOLD Lexus IS300 SC |
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,248 
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Joining wires.Rich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Dec 24, 2017 14:38:31 GMT
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OE wire splices aren't usually soldered, just crimped like you say and insulated. Soldering can cause a stiff point in the loom that can cause a failure point.
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welshpug
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Dec 24, 2017 15:27:52 GMT
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www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Wire-Electrical-Terminals-Connectors-Heat-Shrink-Tube-Sleeving-Kit-Set/152371387045the heatshrink solder sleeves look neat, much cheaper than the Wurth branded ones, some oem's use them. not found any non insulated inline crimps you could heatshrink over to make a purely mechanical join, though you could just heatshrink over the normal red and blue crimps. best practice if possible is to just crimp new pins onto the loom and fit your wires to the loom connector, but that relies on the donor loom being long enough.
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Dec 24, 2017 15:34:04 GMT
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It'd depend where in the loom it was going for me tbh, If it was under the dash I'd do the NASA splice then heatshrink it, anywhere else I'd use a non-insulated crimp and loom tape etc.
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froggy
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Dec 24, 2017 18:10:11 GMT
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There are all in one heat shrink sleeves with a solder ring inside , been using them at work for repairs on door looms etc with no issues . Just push both Bared ends into the tube so the solder ring is in the centre of both ends and heat with a torch or iron . Come in several sizes
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ChasR
RR Helper
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Joining wires.ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Last Edit: Dec 25, 2017 9:21:04 GMT by ChasR
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Dec 25, 2017 18:25:47 GMT
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coolio, thanks for the input. I have ordered a few different types and will see how I like them.
Will also look at removing the pins from the plugs for a super clean install.
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Nissan Laurel SOLD BMW E34 Diesel SOLD Toyota Soarer 4.0 V8 SOLD Audi A4 1995 TDI SOLD Peugeot 205 1.9 TD SOLD Lexus IS300 SC |
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Dec 25, 2017 19:22:02 GMT
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I don't really count those pre-insulated things as a proper crimp, they're basically better than scotchlocks and that's about it.
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Darkspeed
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Joining wires.Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Dec 26, 2017 11:09:20 GMT
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Dec 26, 2017 12:32:59 GMT
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There are all in one heat shrink sleeves with a solder ring inside , been using them at work for repairs on door looms etc with no issues . Just push both Bared ends into the tube so the solder ring is in the centre of both ends and heat with a torch or iron . Come in several sizes Use these a lot. Volkswagen OE repair method, I worked in a dealer so have access to them cheap and they work well. Bare the wires, butt both into the joiner and heat with a small flame on gas créme brûlée torch. Solder melts first the the plastic shrinks to cover the join. Used it on my daily's crankshaft position sensor recently. |
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Dec 26, 2017 12:37:36 GMT
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If extending or splicing I prefer a soldered joint with double heat shrink.    Really like this method. Eliminates the extra bend the joint has to take. |
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Dec 26, 2017 13:06:19 GMT
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Unfortunately splaying all the wires out like that just lets the solder wick further down the wire than it needs to and gives you a brittle joint that extends past the actual joint. Makes it susceptible to vibration fatigue.
I thought VAG had banned the use of those solder splices in favour of the crimp only ones, due to failures and dry joint causing CAN errors?
I know some dealers still use them (and other marques), but afaik there's been more than one bulletin from VAG about using only crimps on their looms as preferred repairs.
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Dec 26, 2017 13:10:16 GMT
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PCBs are still soldered together  . Actually a lot of PCB's subject to high levels of vibration now use parts with clip-in contacts - www.te.com/content/dam/te-com/documents/automotive/global/whitepaper-pressfit-072014.pdf Besides, the PCB being solder is terminating a connection at a part which is both far stiffer than the wiring loom itself and also supported/bolted up - and yet still has issues with vibration - which is why they have to add potting compounds and conformal coatings to prevent components from cracking free of the board. |
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Last Edit: Dec 26, 2017 13:11:58 GMT by phillipm
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Dec 26, 2017 14:22:35 GMT
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+1 on what phil said, but I must add that while a properly done crimp is better than a solder joint, even a fairly mediocre solder joint is streets ahead of anything you could muster with preinsulated crimp terminals.
That said about 20% of my work comes from repairing cracked solder joints on automotive PCBs.
Another 5% is repairing the above press-fit type PCBs by soldering them.. They don't come loose, but the square peg in a round hole leaves nice pockets for corrosion to form if there's any moisture about.
I've never had a lot of luck with those solder splices - We only used cheapie durite ones but I'd rather just manually solder and cover with adhesive lined heatshrink.
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Dec 26, 2017 14:41:16 GMT
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Scotchlocks < Twisted Wires < Preinsulated Crimp < Poor solder joint < Good Solder Joint < Good Crimp.
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steveg
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Dec 26, 2017 15:16:16 GMT
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I wasn't actually doing any repairs but found out about how looms were repaired and modified on the pre production cars I once worked on and quality crimps were the only way. Not only did the cars have sensitive electrical components but they also had carbon fibre bodies. As we were involved in fitting the looms and trim going over them we had a demonstration of how well carbon fibre burns.
Talking about pre-insulated terminals there are good and bad of those. If you get them from proper electrical suppliers they crimp the insulation as well as the wire and some come with heat shrinkable coverings.
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Dec 26, 2017 18:03:32 GMT
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these joiners will be just what I need to do the usual drivers door loom repair in swmbo's bongo.
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'80 s1 924 turbo..hibernating
'80 golf gli cabriolet...doing impression of a skip
'97 pug 106 commuter...continuing cheapness making me smile!
firm believer in the k.i.s.s and f.i.s.h principles.
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froggy
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Dec 26, 2017 18:24:38 GMT
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I’ve done lots of door and tailgate loom repairs with the all in one solder /shrink joints and not had one fail yet
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ChasR
RR Helper
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Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Joining wires.ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Dec 26, 2017 21:04:27 GMT
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Scotchlocks < Twisted Wires < Preinsulated Crimp < Poor solder joint < Good Solder Joint < Good Crimp. This I'll go with. It's a shame you very rarely come across a good crimp. That is one that isn't a factory one. |
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