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Dec 17, 2017 16:43:29 GMT
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What engines have a good and well deserved reputation for being unbreakable, reliable, idiot proof,...? And which gear boxes, especially automatic boxes since these will be my choice for the future. I like them, my gf needs them... Honda Accord (1998-2002) F18B engine is a gem and bulletproof. There's also a 2.0 & 2.3 versions. There's no issues with the manual boxes. The autos are good too (even came with tiptronic as standard) provided they are serviced regularly. But I reckon the best built auto boxes from the 90's are made by Toyota.
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Last Edit: Dec 17, 2017 17:11:03 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,834
Club RR Member Number: 174
Member is Online
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Dec 17, 2017 17:32:20 GMT
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Japanese non performance model petrol engines.
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Dec 17, 2017 17:43:53 GMT
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I'm biased, but any MB build between 1980 and 1992. you didn't ask about rust, did you?
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Dec 17, 2017 17:59:29 GMT
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Your are not wrong. I'll hold onto mine forever... All good reasons!
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Dec 17, 2017 18:00:22 GMT
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Ford iron head 4.1 litre OHV crossflow as fitted to Ford Falcon XC and some Australian built Cortinas. Best Ford six ever as far as simplicity and reliability go. These came with a manual gearbox or a Borg Warner automatic. Avoid the later aluminium head OHV six as fitted to XD - XF Falcons, especially the first couple of years production, as there were quality issues. Availability may be an issue in Europe and they do hog the juice a bit. I dailied an XC wagon for about three years and it was getting a fairly consistent 22 mpg.
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Dec 17, 2017 18:04:33 GMT
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I'm biased, but any MB build between 1980 and 1992. you didn't ask about rust, did you? No I didn´t, I do not expect to find rust on a mercedes, because... well, it´s a mercedes!?! No serious, I heard about the bad reputation of a s124, a car I would really fancy, but the good ones all have their last owner already I guess. Why I don´t ask about rust? I can weld - but I can´t repair/replace/pay for engines or boxes. I'm the exact opposite in that respect. I'll go for a good shell with a sick motor every time because fixing mechanical stuff is a finite cost whereas chasing rust never ends. Also I haven't even held a torch in 25 years and my welding was pretty curse word then.
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Dec 17, 2017 21:11:57 GMT
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Audi straight 5 diesels run a long time (the petrol versions are pretty tough too). The 01e series of gearboxes that goes with them. The whole C4 A6 you'll find them in.
Any of the 1.6 or 1.8 8v VAG engines. The transverse gearboxes they come with..... not so much.
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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Dec 18, 2017 12:12:41 GMT
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Some would say that GM killed a decent engine by trying to cheapen it with the Saab lineup.
The engines (doesn't seem to matter if turbo or not) sniffed at quarter-million mile figures certainly well through the 9000 range. Autoboxes are a bit on the fragile side apparently (all ZF I think) - the 220k I had on my turbo 9000 (92 vintage) was reckoned to be on borrowed time but seemed fine. Fluid changes are the key on them though. Not many auto boxes will last more than 100k on the same oil irrespective of who makes them.
Things they did badly - put the Cat under the sump so cooking the oil from inside (turbo) and underneath (cat) so regular oil changes with the right synthetic oil is paramount and they do like a timing chain every 100-150k or so. GM systematically destroyed the reputation of the engine by lengthening the oil change intervals for the fleet market and cocking up the breathing system. They finally corrected the breathing system sometime around 2003-2004 but the damage was done by then - and the long change interval was still too long. The engines only die due to timing chain failure (probably not helped by curse word oil) or the oil system clogging itself up (see service intervals and breathing system..), not because of any inherent issue.
Manual boxes only seem to be an issue when you double the torque from the engine. I'm excluding the chocolate ones in the "proper" 900 here..
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,948
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Dec 18, 2017 12:21:37 GMT
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Falls outside of your time frame but indestructible engine and gearbox combo would be a Chevrolet LS engine teamed with an 4L80 transmission. Easy 600K miles on the engine, and the same with the gearbox. Anything that can take 1000hp with a stock bottom end will easily hold up to the 300-400 they come with stock Easy swap into the chassis of your choice. Stock they get an easy 22-25 on a run and with a manual that goes up to over 30. P.
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Dec 18, 2017 12:50:24 GMT
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The 5 litre V8 that was in my 98 CL500 Merc was bulletproof. Awesome torque & power with reliability like no other. Good MPG too.
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96 E320 W210 Wafter - on 18" split Mono's - Sold :-( 10 Kia Ceed Sportwagon - Our new daily 03 Import Forester STi - Sold 98 W140 CL500 AMG - Brutal weekend bruiser! Sold :-( 99 E240 S210 Barge - Now sold 02 Accord 2.0SE - wife's old daily - gone in PX 88 P100 2.9efi Custom - Sold
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,192
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Dec 18, 2017 13:30:51 GMT
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It depends what you mean. Any car will eventually die if you leave the oil etc.
As for bombproof cars:
-Mercedes OM60x engines, with the 4 pot and the 5 pot (601 & 602 engines) being the toughest ; they are a little more resilient to overheating. -Ford OHVs as said.
If you can live with changing brake calipers potentially every 20k on the rear a Mk3 Mondeo with either a 1.8 or a 2.0 will fit the bill. We've done the following with each. All ran on LPG
-2001 2.0 Ghia X : 380k with the engine not being taken apart. Amazingly only one brake caliper. Albeit a gearbox in that time too. -2003 2.0 Ghia X ; 200k with it having a rebuilt head at 170k ; It burned the valves out and had no Flashlube -2007 1.8 LX : 325k. That had a head as well at 210k despite having Flashlube and it had a DMF and clutch at 300k. Before that it also had 2 rear brake callipers. It was a good car. -2005 3.0 V6 Ghia X : 262k (got written off) rear caliper and a clutch at 212k. We did however change a number of cooling bits either when they looked like they were going or they had gone. The V6s aren't an engine you can drive on in the red without dire consequences. You can ask how I know... . Keep on top of the cooling however and they are very solid lumps despite what others say about HGs (I suspect they are down to people driving on them with cooling issues, using the wrong coolant and generally neglecting them).
I do wonder with the last two 2.0 and 1.8 cars whether shimming the valves correctly every 100k would have stopped the VSR despite running LPG. I only didn't do it because my garage said "There's no point". Ford however, claim they do need shimming every 100k. I did near double that before I had signs of VSR.
I'd have bought one over the Mercedes if I didn't fancy a W124 and if the insurance was cheaper.
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Last Edit: Dec 18, 2017 13:31:58 GMT by ChasR
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brachunky
Scotland
Posts: 1,314
Club RR Member Number: 72
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Dec 18, 2017 13:43:09 GMT
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I had to add my biased opinion of the 1UZFEV8 Lexus/Toyota engine!
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Dec 18, 2017 14:02:26 GMT
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B204/B234 - Bullet proof, can take good power and very easy/cheap to push them past 300bhp.
6G72 - I have the SOHC in my mk1 and they're very strong/reliable.
Chevy LS - As above but they've been jumped on with scene tax now.
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düdo
Part of things
wide as house
Posts: 770
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Dec 18, 2017 17:11:09 GMT
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PSA XUD series - my personal experience is with the XUD9 1.9 normally aspirated diesel - as featured in Citroen BXs/Peugeots of the 80s/90s. Hard to remember what a breakthrough this engine was when it appeared in 1982 - converted many people to diesel as it was refined for the time. Robust and economical.
And it kept on going and going.. and when the car fell apart it was stuck in many boats. I have run three of these over the years and they're probably still running somewhere? ( Unless the cooling system got neglected)
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Last Edit: Dec 18, 2017 17:15:07 GMT by düdo
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Dec 18, 2017 17:15:15 GMT
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Ok not as big and fancy as those above but any Vauxhall/Opel 8 valve family 1&2 engine from the 80s/90s, simple and cheap to fix, big miles as long as you keep on top of basic servicing and pretty simple to tune if you want a bit more BHP
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Dec 20, 2017 22:02:34 GMT
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Unbreakable engines and gearboxes
No such thing just ask my brother He has broken every engine or box in all the cars he's had or borrowed Most recently the flappy paddle gearbox in his M3
On a more useful note I've generally found big luxury cars with the larger engine options are a safe bet I've had V12 BMWs V8 Lexus V8 merc's V12 jags all been good Early to mid 90s merc's are good (before they started cutting corners) BMW can't make a good V8 nor can jaguar but they both do a good 6 pot Volvo make a good engine but can't make a good auto box
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1992 240 Volvo T8 1955 Cadillac 1994 BMW E34 M5 (now sold ) 1999 BMW E36 sport touring x2 1967 Hillman imp Californian "rally spec" 1971 VW bay window (work in progress) 1999 Mazda 323F 1987 Jaguar XJ12 All current
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Dec 20, 2017 22:23:48 GMT
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For me has to be the 130BHP Pumpe Duese TDI engine. Had a few of them now and seen a good few over 500k miles if looked after. The older the get, the nicer they drive. Lowest mileage one has been 160k miles, highest 230k and all have been brilliant solid units and give a steadfast 45+MPG no matter what and have often seen 60+ on a run. As long as you use the correct oil and change the coolant every 2 years, never had a single engine problem.
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mylittletony
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,339
Club RR Member Number: 84
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Volvo red block, 200/700/900 series, from 100-200hp (if you get a turbo and tweak it)
The AW70/71 in 900 series is pretty robust is you keep on top of fluid changes.
You'll get friendly with your petrol station though, 30mpg if you're really sensible.
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Badger
Part of things
Posts: 250
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Dec 21, 2017 12:10:59 GMT
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For me has to be the 130BHP Pumpe Duese TDI engine. Had a few of them now and seen a good few over 500k miles if looked after. The older the get, the nicer they drive. Lowest mileage one has been 160k miles, highest 230k and all have been brilliant solid units and give a steadfast 45+MPG no matter what and have often seen 60+ on a run. As long as you use the correct oil and change the coolant every 2 years, never had a single engine problem. I've got the 150, which is the same engine with a different map, in a 2003 Leon. Over the seven years or so I've had it it's needed a new camshaft and lifters (never seen a lobe worn off a cam before!), new injector wiring loom and numerous bits of pipe. They're quite fussy on oil. It's on 180k now and most problems I had were about 120k; the cam issue _may_ have been caused by someone putting in non spec oil in the dim and distant past, but that's speculation. They're not bad lumps but they need to be looked after The most reliable I've had is probably the 1.6 zetec-s I had in a MK1 focus, considering how much I mistreated it at the time. Saying that it did like to munch through coil packs!
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Last Edit: Dec 21, 2017 12:11:56 GMT by Badger
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For me has to be the 130BHP Pumpe Duese TDI engine. Had a few of them now and seen a good few over 500k miles if looked after. The older the get, the nicer they drive. Lowest mileage one has been 160k miles, highest 230k and all have been brilliant solid units and give a steadfast 45+MPG no matter what and have often seen 60+ on a run. As long as you use the correct oil and change the coolant every 2 years, never had a single engine problem. I've got the 150, which is the same engine with a different map, in a 2003 Leon. Over the seven years or so I've had it it's needed a new camshaft and lifters (never seen a lobe worn off a cam before!), new injector wiring loom and numerous bits of pipe. They're quite fussy on oil. It's on 180k now and most problems I had were about 120k; the cam issue _may_ have been caused by someone putting in non spec oil in the dim and distant past, but that's speculation. They're not bad lumps but they need to be looked after The most reliable I've had is probably the 1.6 zetec-s I had in a MK1 focus, considering how much I mistreated it at the time. Saying that it did like to munch through coil packs! Apparently the ARL 150 has cam wear issues where the ASZ, AWX and AVF 130 bhp rarely do. I think it is to do with the long life saervicing regime the cars were subjected to in their warranty periods. My 1.9 105BHP Passat I had from 40K and only ever got a single long life service (20k mile intervals) and has zero cam wear. I have just collected a car from a customer where the cam is worn off and the lifters burst open, same unit but long life for 10 years. Hence that car will be receiving the engine I took out of my own Passat (replaced with a modified ARL 150bhp unit and new cam kit) which has zero wear after 300,000km. Always run them on 5w30 and 5-6k mile intervals and they are happy as Larry for years, Injector wiring is a small money exercise. Have to be my favorite engines, purely because the 130/150bhp units can do 270 bhp on a standard bottom and top end.
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