Owatrol oil? Or what rust inhibitor?

Here's some info if you haven't already read it.


www.rust.co.uk/owatrol-oil/p513014#


Note, it can be used in cavities before waxing but you'll ideally need the spray can product rather than the 1lt tin.

There's someone on here that swears by the stuff, if I remember.

Have you tried a search?

Hang on. Yes, it's our friend TurboDieselWeasel . Check his threads out.

Copy & paste this link. www.viva-lancia.com/lancia_fora/read.php?10,4623,4624

I'm glad you chipped in GN, it was reading your thread on the Jowett van sparked my interest.

Since I've been mentioned, may as well add a bit...

I've got good results with Owatrol Oil. Far better than with all the other "rust converters" on the market, and I've tried a fair amount of them. But it takes a long time to fully dry, depending on how thick you put it on. And it doesn't disolve or "convert" rust, it just encapsulates it, so to say. Works well to prevent it spreading further, though. And it's easy to paint over. Which you should. The even cheaper solution: lin seed oil. Owatrol apparently is just that, with some additives to have it solidify quicker. Lin seed oil realy takes weeks to fully dry. But it also gives it a lot of time to spread and creep - which it does well. Owatrol doesn't work so well on "surface" rust or blank metal. It needs real rust to work. And you can never tell if it realy did creep into the last seam, joint & crack. But this goes for pretty much all other products as well. But the longer it takes to cure, the higher the chance that it fully penetrated all rust. And went where you can't look. That's why I prefere slow-curing products - like Owatrol.

As far as cavity protection goes; I swear by Fluid Film fluidfilm.de/en/ - mostly because it works, and because it doesn't contain any solvents. And I tend to spend a good amount of time in my cars, why would I breathe toxic fumes all the time? Makes no sense to prevent the car from rusting by eroding the driver... The downside is; it stays soft and may get washed away over time. So it needs refreshing from time to time... Comes in liquid to almost-solid viscosity. I use the medium range. Applied to the wheel arches & bottom/outside of the car, it lasts for a winter driving season, sometimes longer. And I do a lot of milage with my cars. Downside; some rubbers don't like Fluid Film and swell up and get soft. Other rubbers are totaly unimpressed by the stuff... I'd test compatibility when using near door seals etc. - especially if they are hard to find or expensive. We had cases of destroyed door seals on customer cars (customers applied FF).

It's not an easy subject, this rust-stopping-preventing-business. I found "my" products, for me and for my requirements they work well.

Once it has fully cured, yes. But raw linseed oil takes literally ages to fully cure... Boiled linseed oil is a bit faster.

But be carefull with the stuff - linseed oil drenched rags are known to self-ignite. Always dry them in the open, never throw them in a bin. The wood workshop in our school burned down because of this...

Shell ensis fluid , only seems to come in 50gallon drums these days but used in marine applications