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Nov 21, 2017 11:09:38 GMT
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
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ebat tyre changersChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Nov 21, 2017 11:32:40 GMT
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Watching with interest.
If I am ever heading down to Rugby I'll let you know.
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ebat tyre changersfr€$h&m1nt¥
@freshandminty
Club Retro Rides Member 99
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Nov 21, 2017 11:39:03 GMT
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watching too (o)(o)
must be better than my attempt with an angle grinder sending molten rubber specks all over me!
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Nov 21, 2017 11:46:59 GMT
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they work fine yep, you do need some additional tyre levers IME, the one with it isn't really much use for really tight lower profile tyres. I haven't even bolted mine down yet but not used it a great deal, I mostly use it to break the bead. good workout
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Last Edit: Nov 21, 2017 11:47:16 GMT by welshpug
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ric
Part of things
Posts: 19
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Nov 21, 2017 11:48:12 GMT
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DEVON T25
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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ebat tyre changersDez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Nov 21, 2017 13:28:05 GMT
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It's all I've used for years. They work good, especially for tyres with tubes where auto feed machines can snag them up. There's a knack to them, but once you got it down you can do em quicker than automated machines.
They do need some additional bracing though, especially to the bead breaker.
The stenor type bread breaker are great, except they don't fit a wheel wider than 5", so are largely useless unless you're doing bikes or pre-war cars. I've got one and it never gets used.
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Nov 21, 2017 14:24:35 GMT
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I've a similar style sealey unit, removing tyres is a doddle fitting them can be a ballache but gets easier with practice. You'll need a tub of tyre soap, basting brush and tyre valve core removal tool aswell. If your planning on using it for alloy wheels you'll need a different bar to prevent scratching them I use one of these rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232547101945It's not cheap but it does a good job
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Iain
Part of things
Posts: 351
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Nov 21, 2017 15:00:52 GMT
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I'd hold out for a second hand heavier duty one with air powered bead breaker. Can be got for around 50 quid.
The whole idea is a lot nicer than the reality in my experience - I can't do low profiles, the slicks I wanted to do or any nice wheels that may be damaged. That said it's paid for itself many times over with daily tyre swaps and removals.
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Nov 21, 2017 21:51:43 GMT
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I have one just like that.
I found the bead breaker hopeless as supplied but I've modified the "shoe" part and it now works ok.
Fine for steel wheels and rough alloys, 13 - 16" but will mark nice alloys. Quite hard work. Extra tyre levers are helpful as already mentioned.
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
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ebat tyre changersChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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I have one just like that. I found the bead breaker hopeless as supplied but I've modified the "shoe" part and it now works ok. Fine for steel wheels and rough alloys, 13 - 16" but will mark nice alloys. Quite hard work. Extra tyre levers are helpful as already mentioned. Nick I take it there is no way to avoid marking the wheels?
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Nov 22, 2017 11:50:33 GMT
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A decent bar with covered ends will stop you marking wheels and plenty of tyre soap
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Nov 22, 2017 12:12:46 GMT
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A decent bar with covered ends will stop you marking wheels and plenty of tyre soap This I guess. But the proper pro kit has support bars for the tyre levers to act against so they never touch the wheel itself. You'll never match that. Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Nov 22, 2017 17:10:33 GMT
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I guess it depends what size/condition you will be using it for ?
For info - I use an air-powered commercial tyre changer at a mates workshop when needed, even that struggles to break the bead on large (18") rims, or low-profile tyres. Fitting my 13" winter tyres is also difficult, due to thick rubber sidewalls (and normally done at a cold time of the year).
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Last Edit: Nov 22, 2017 17:11:20 GMT by nomad: typo...
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Never used one, but there is a guy on youtube who uses / abuses one for review...
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LOL
schoolboy error on the first go he tries to lever it off, he didn't push the bead into the well!
Same when he tries to get it back on too.
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LOL schoolboy error on the first go he tries to lever it off, he didn't push the bead into the well! Same when he tries to get it back on too. Hi, yes. He made hard work of a simple job. He realised a bit late about about maybe using soap, Lube always makes it easier. Colin
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Dec 10, 2017 16:26:25 GMT
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wonder what that would be like on 15" forest tyres!
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Dec 10, 2017 22:02:30 GMT
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Thanks for posting the vid, I was wondering how the bead breaker part worked, I've put one on my wish list now
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Last Edit: Dec 10, 2017 22:02:46 GMT by Deleted
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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ebat tyre changersDez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Dec 10, 2017 22:22:05 GMT
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That vid is painful to watch. I know he states he don't know what he's doing, but he REALLY don't know what he's doing. He makes it look about 100x more difficult to use than it is, mostly because he doesn't understand what the well on the wheel is for.
With a bit of practice one do this is as quick and easy as using a fully automated machine. The other bit that requires any effort is the bead breaker.
I've done all kinds of tyres with one of these- Crossplies, slicks, gravel tyres, massive off road/implement stuff and super low pros. Out of all of them the most difficult were the tyres on a mule, and that's only because the wheel is so small.
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Dec 10, 2017 23:24:21 GMT
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used mine just this evening to change some 235 45 17's, mostly just use it for the bead breaker really, do the rest with some fairly small tyre levers rather than the big bar it comes with.
liberal use of the fairy liquid and leave the valve core out till its mostly inflated, two barrel footpump is a must if you don't have a compressor, its the volume you need not pressure, both popped on at under 15 psi.
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