I've mostly copied and pasted this from the XJ thread as it may interest some people on how to do it for themselves.
So I picked up a bass tube thingy at the local car boot a while back. I wanted to use it to add a bit of period bass to the Cherokee but it needed an amplifier.
Enter stage right, the Fiat Punto active subwoofer. These can be had with loom cuts for around the £35 mark. You can use them as-is in some taller hatchbacks in the intended location on the N/S/R wheelarch but for this I wanted the inside parts.
So that gets me a 100W RMS two channel amp, a twin voice coil 5" subwoofer, and a quick connect plug and loom to wire the whole shebang up with. Now the great things with the Punto subwoofer are as follows.
* You can easily repurpose the inners into anything you want. A suitcase. A fire extinguisher. Or indeed, a bass tube.
* Handy wiring plug as stated.
* Low power demand; no need to run a ridiculous big red python of a cable through the cabin. Cable rated at about 15A is plenty.
* Doesn't use pre-amp inputs. In it's natural environment it simply piggybacks off the Punto rear speaker wiring, meaning you can install this anywhere you have speakers and 12V.
* Makes far more bass than it has any right to. I mean OK, it's not going to blow your windows out. But it adds a hefty whack of missing frequency.
* Wiring diagram with cable colour and pinout is available easily so no guesswork. (If you fancy having a bash with one, let me know and I can fwd you the wiring schematic)
Mount the amp somewhere you can run the cabling to it. If needs be it's easily extended but it's all on handy plugs.
The plug panel is removed separately to be repurposed so the unit can be removed easily.
All built up.
You need to run speaker level inputs to it, you can tie into existing rear speaker wiring, an 'amp remote' or if you don't have that you can fit a switch or use an ignition live, an earth and a moderate power cable, fused near the battery. I was a massive cheapskate and used a run of brown 13A household wiring because I had some. The power demands are low, so again you can do this pretty cheaply.
In situ in the boot.
The wiring pin-out is simple, I will find a better diagram but for now on this diagram, item 81 is the sub's amp.
Pin 1 is Left speaker +
Pin 4 is left speaker -
Pin 2 is right speaker +
Pin 5 is right speaker -
Pin 8 is the remote turn-on wire, usually blue at your H/U or an ignition switched live
Pin 3 is 12V permanent
Pin 7 is earth
The colours will match your loom cut if you have one, so you can keep the plug for easy removability.
Go wild with it. Build one into a welly boot or something. I dunno. I had one chucked in an old 80's household speaker in my Citroen BX because it was a handy little box with a grille. Just bear in mind the closer you can keep the volume of air in the enclosure to the original, the better it will sound.
Good luck, happy bassing. If you need some assistance, holla at me and i'll see how I can help!
So I picked up a bass tube thingy at the local car boot a while back. I wanted to use it to add a bit of period bass to the Cherokee but it needed an amplifier.
Enter stage right, the Fiat Punto active subwoofer. These can be had with loom cuts for around the £35 mark. You can use them as-is in some taller hatchbacks in the intended location on the N/S/R wheelarch but for this I wanted the inside parts.
So that gets me a 100W RMS two channel amp, a twin voice coil 5" subwoofer, and a quick connect plug and loom to wire the whole shebang up with. Now the great things with the Punto subwoofer are as follows.
* You can easily repurpose the inners into anything you want. A suitcase. A fire extinguisher. Or indeed, a bass tube.
* Handy wiring plug as stated.
* Low power demand; no need to run a ridiculous big red python of a cable through the cabin. Cable rated at about 15A is plenty.
* Doesn't use pre-amp inputs. In it's natural environment it simply piggybacks off the Punto rear speaker wiring, meaning you can install this anywhere you have speakers and 12V.
* Makes far more bass than it has any right to. I mean OK, it's not going to blow your windows out. But it adds a hefty whack of missing frequency.
* Wiring diagram with cable colour and pinout is available easily so no guesswork. (If you fancy having a bash with one, let me know and I can fwd you the wiring schematic)
Mount the amp somewhere you can run the cabling to it. If needs be it's easily extended but it's all on handy plugs.
The plug panel is removed separately to be repurposed so the unit can be removed easily.
All built up.
You need to run speaker level inputs to it, you can tie into existing rear speaker wiring, an 'amp remote' or if you don't have that you can fit a switch or use an ignition live, an earth and a moderate power cable, fused near the battery. I was a massive cheapskate and used a run of brown 13A household wiring because I had some. The power demands are low, so again you can do this pretty cheaply.
In situ in the boot.
The wiring pin-out is simple, I will find a better diagram but for now on this diagram, item 81 is the sub's amp.
Pin 1 is Left speaker +
Pin 4 is left speaker -
Pin 2 is right speaker +
Pin 5 is right speaker -
Pin 8 is the remote turn-on wire, usually blue at your H/U or an ignition switched live
Pin 3 is 12V permanent
Pin 7 is earth
The colours will match your loom cut if you have one, so you can keep the plug for easy removability.
Go wild with it. Build one into a welly boot or something. I dunno. I had one chucked in an old 80's household speaker in my Citroen BX because it was a handy little box with a grille. Just bear in mind the closer you can keep the volume of air in the enclosure to the original, the better it will sound.
Good luck, happy bassing. If you need some assistance, holla at me and i'll see how I can help!
