froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Nov 14, 2017 13:55:41 GMT
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Seen a couple of tvr,s with the 1uz in so it does fit . I’m using a later 3uz in my current build which is a 4.3 with vvti and variable inlet geometry on std Toyota management with fully sequential injection etc . 280hp with the terrible factory exhaust manifolds so should be closer to 300 with the 4-1 headers I’ve built . Engine with loom and Ecu modified to run a manual box cost me £1200 .
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Nov 20, 2017 22:19:16 GMT
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The small journal 4441cc - known as the 4.5 - standard (3.9) bore - one of the sweetest combinations of RV8 I am building a similar specification Small journal cross bolted block 4.5 Crank - Balanced Omega JED pistons - Matched Late rods lightened balanced shot peened ARP throughout M248 3 degree advanced BRE big valve heads - Duplex springs, steel caps 11.5 static Group A rockers IDF manifolds - ported and matched 45 IDF type TB's Lightweight fly and AP clutch MS semi sequential That sounds like an awesome spec! Would the 4.0 or 4.6 be a better base or isnt there much between them?
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,725
Club RR Member Number: 39
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The 4.0 and 4.6 are the same basic block - 4.6 selected as the better castings although both can drop liners if they have been too warm - Capacity is the cheapest way to get an RV8 to make power because getting it by revving them is expensive. As its all about torque up to 5252 - I suggest building around a good hydraulic cam like a H218 (need to check I have got that right) and a good set of mid valve heads. Carefully built up that should provide an honest and very tractable 270BHP and be good to 6000. If you start to go wilder then the costs square.
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Nov 21, 2017 21:32:53 GMT
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Thanks Darkspeed, thats what I'm planning. 4.6 base, 4.0 pistons, stage 3 heads, cam, ITBs, lightened flywheel. Should be a relatively cost effective way of making a good all round unit!
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,725
Club RR Member Number: 39
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You will also be surprised by how powerful an RV8 can feel even if not making the headline figures claimed for others There is also something about the simplicity of the RV8 and its plain athstetic.
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Nov 22, 2017 17:28:54 GMT
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How do they respond to turbocharging?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Nov 22, 2017 18:09:06 GMT
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How do they respond to turbocharging? I was told years ago the older 3.5 and 3.9's were good for about 7psi, and the 4.0 and 4.6 about 10psi in standard factory form. With decent mappable ignition and keeping charge temps under control you could be lucky and push a bit more in before needing uprated internals?
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tim124
Part of things
Posts: 128
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fit a turbo, cheap & so very easy to do, if you ( or your mates) have any fabing skills..... Use a range rover low comp' unit & keep your tune good & you'll be a happy boy.. 250 ish BHP on stock engine no problem!
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,725
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Turbo's are great - However a 90 degree V8 is quite wide so twin turbos start getting hard to package in small sports cars, there is room for intercoolers to find take offs for oil feeds and it starts to get fussy and to end up not looking like a scrapheap challenge takes keen fabrication skills and more money. The other down side is that it loses its voice - Most of the time people will hear the car is at idle and when pulling away up the road, what makes you turn your head when a V8 goes by is not the power it may make, its the noise it does make.
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ToolsnTrack
Posted a lot
Homebrew Raconteur
Posts: 4,117
Club RR Member Number: 134
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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There’s a build thread on here of a single turbo tvr using a cheap Holset hx35 up front . The 1uz Makes around 350hp at 7lb and doesn’t feel very turbocharged just a big flat torque curve from 2000 rpm . Can’t see the Rover being miles behind at modest boost
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madwrx
Part of things
Posts: 38
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Jan 31, 2018 22:25:31 GMT
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i suppose more importantly the 1uz will make similar torque figures-i.ll bet its a lovely road engine
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ToolsnTrack
Posted a lot
Homebrew Raconteur
Posts: 4,117
Club RR Member Number: 134
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This makes for interesting reading I've got four rv8's in the shed I keep saying il put them in something one day I've even got a janspeed turbo kit in the shed as well But I no there just not up on pace compared to modern day stuff
I will use them one day just need the right car
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1992 240 Volvo T8 1955 Cadillac 1994 BMW E34 M5 (now sold ) 1999 BMW E36 sport touring x2 1967 Hillman imp Californian "rally spec" 1971 VW bay window (work in progress) 1999 Mazda 323F 1987 Jaguar XJ12 All current
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I see this a couple of months back It's a 3.5 and it has 282bhp I'm sure it's safe to say it's had many thousands of pounds spent on it But gives you an idea
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1992 240 Volvo T8 1955 Cadillac 1994 BMW E34 M5 (now sold ) 1999 BMW E36 sport touring x2 1967 Hillman imp Californian "rally spec" 1971 VW bay window (work in progress) 1999 Mazda 323F 1987 Jaguar XJ12 All current
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 860
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Speak to Stuart Armson at Armson AE. He's been building quick RV8's for years, many of which have been featured in vehicles in the Land Rover mags. Tel: 0116 319 3251 He is a genuine guy that goes the extra mile for his customers. www.armsonae.co.uk/rocketsledtuning.webs.com/
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2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71 2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet 1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon 1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump) 1992 Toyota HiLux Surf 1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty) 1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty) 2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager 2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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Ahh my fav engine, can make good power as long as your expectations are sub 400hp. Just need to stick to the basic hotrodding triple C's of cam, compression and cfm.
I'm currently running 2, a 4.0 intermediate block at 276hp@6k/282tq that's street friendly and a 3905cc with 11.8CR and 334hp@6300, the later however doesn't like to cruise at steady/light throttle below 2200rpm.
As a starter for 10 i'd recommend as bare minimums; 10:1 CR and a cam with at least 220@50 and .480 lift. Heads are a bit of a crapshoot as they are utterly critical but the aftermarket offerings are HUGELY variable even though they all claim to be "STAGE 3" or whatever. The term is essentially meaningless, i've had stg3 big valve heads on my flowbench that flow worse than standard small valve heads i've ported at every single lift point. Also memorable was a £1.6k+ CNC head that had 10-15cfm variance port to port, you can't even get it that bad doing it by hand and eye!
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