79cord
Posted a lot
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I recently removed an old 'Spy' (remote start?) car alarm from my newest toy ('93 DC2 Integra) since I didn't have control fobs for it and bought a cheap new remote locking 'keyless entry' system for it. So now I'm after ideas how/if there was a way to add immobilizer functionality to it by also getting it to disconnect power from the car electrics/fuel pump since it doesn't seem to readily support the idea with dedicated ground wires like alarm setups.   The car has factory central locking from the drivers door though no actuator to lock/unlock that, so a generic kit actuator (2-wire) had been added to the drivers door then leaving the factory system to control the passengers. Though currently not working this may also be confusing the old system since it semi-regularly locks the passenger door by itself despite the removal of the aftermarket controller?  On a similar note I've another older car bought already fitted with an aftermarket remote locking/immobilizer system which regularly locks itself catching me unawares with keys inside several times, if anyone has ideas how to stop that function? ![]() |
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Last Edit: Oct 28, 2017 11:51:04 GMT by 79cord
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,607
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Much searching & I think one of these linkages of std SPDT relays will do what I was hoping for given the units lack of dedicated Ground-when-armed wire.  www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram38.htmlor perhaps  www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram66.htmlWill add another manual switch though just in case.  Still sorting wiring routing after adding the remote controlled actuator for the rear hatch to supplement std. cable release. And parking sensors. And bought a defroster antenna amplifier to consider since I welded up the hole for the damaged retractable electric aerial. And bought an early CRV rear door latch actuator to see if it will fit drivers door as some online parts-book hunting indicates, for a more integrated factory arrangement. Various other interesting relay concept there... Would prefer to be able to wind-up windows/sunroof after car has been turned off! |
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Last Edit: Nov 5, 2017 8:08:58 GMT by 79cord
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,607
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Remote Locking kit now installed utilizing CRV door lock actuator and using original central locking fused power supply & wiring (re-organised to bypass factory central locking control relay unit in drivers door).  Relay, wiring & aftermarket rear actuator fitted to allow remote hatch release, largely as per:  www.civic-eg.com/causeforalarm/trunk_pop/index.php Still have to add immobilizer capacity with 3 relays lined up to create 'Ground-when-Armed' with others controlled by that for starter, fuel etc. Thinking I may need a resistor to reduce the power supplied to the 'Ground-when-Armed' assembly if it is only a relay trigger power supply required? |
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Last Edit: Nov 9, 2017 8:08:43 GMT by 79cord
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Be careful to nut put any current on a relay while the car is not used (locked)as it will drain the battery to its death (deep discharge)
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,607
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If possible I'd prefer it to retain its last state regardless of locked or unlocked if under remote locking control, without battery drain (beyond silly flashing LED). So still getting my head around the effect of the possible relay arrangements I've found to see if that's realistic.
** Or if I should be looking to buy a dual coil latching relay? **
Though happy for hidden manual switch to work off Accessory power (key in switch) & defaulting to an automatic non-start when switched off, with warning LED once Acc power is restored. Much easier to understand.
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Last Edit: Nov 10, 2017 12:23:27 GMT by 79cord
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,607
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Nov 27, 2017 14:25:16 GMT
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Still looking for appropriate latched relay for remote controlled immobilizer switch, but finally got around to wiring up the (auto arming) manual switch using the "switched" relay wiring arrangement, the right one of this pair: Wired up to a spdt relay added to the ignition power supply for the cars main fuel/ignition/ecu relay,  (number 5) So starter will still crank the engine but it can't start. Hidden Momentary micro-switch must be pressed once key is turned to "ignition" to turn on power to this main relay. This had the bonus of lighting the cars "check engine" warning light until the main relay was supplied with power, providing a reminder without having to add another. Powering wire de-pinned from existing connecting plug with another returning wire fitted in its place (conveniently a std female spade terminal in plug), so no cut/joined/spliced wires for evidence & a factory type relay sourced from wrecker so my added relay matches others under the dash. Took a while deciding upon appropriate switch location & mounting it with a new covering trim (a scrap of sheet metal covered with self-adhesive vinyl), that both hides it & makes it easier to press (bigger area). Even though that took two tries due to access making pressing it too hard to press & insecure switch mounting (double sided tape) causing thin wires to be pulled from the switch on first attempt. |
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Last Edit: Nov 27, 2017 14:53:16 GMT by 79cord
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