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Sept 19, 2017 15:23:33 GMT
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I bought two of these (because one was bound to be faulty):  I get the 'on' and 'delay' test bulbs on the PCB to do it's thing, but I'm unsure of how to control the thing I'm wanting to control - there doesn't seem to be any outputs on this thing, apart from 'LOAD POWER' (?) and AC/DC at the bottom. I assume it is powered 12v via the crappy thin three strand wires and dodgy connector on the top, and the other connector is just for a switch. There is no power or control output - I think the three outputs might be NC or NO, but I can't work out how to get it to do anything. There is nothing beyond vague Engrish Alibabi stuff on the internet on these things. Are these even suitable for car electronics, they are rated at 10A max. |
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Last Edit: Sept 19, 2017 16:08:14 GMT by DavidB
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paul99
Part of things
Posts: 410 
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Sept 19, 2017 16:10:45 GMT
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Should T1 and T2 be the same, or is one On and one Off? What is the load you are trying to power? To get 10A out at 250V is going to need 100A in at 12V.....  Edit: Sorry, misread what was going on By the looks of it, the one marked 'Load Power' would be the common output |
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Last Edit: Sept 20, 2017 7:56:50 GMT by paul99
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Sept 19, 2017 17:07:40 GMT
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I've got it set up right, t1 control length of on, and t2 is the offness length. You can loop or set to come on once.
It is for a security device, which would otherwise drain the battery.
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Sept 19, 2017 17:07:58 GMT
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It all looks well marked to me apart from the 3 relay connections on the blue terminal block which look like they might be a common, normally open, normally closed set, you wont get power out of this its only an electrical switch, the relay on the board says it will take 10amp @ 28volts but reduce that a bit for 12volts
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Sept 19, 2017 17:47:35 GMT
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Ok! So just simplify what to do, my brain is fried.
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Sept 19, 2017 17:58:39 GMT
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Apply your vehicle's +12V to the centre relay terminal, and the item you want to switch from off to on to the normally open (NO) contact or switch from on to off to the normally closed (NC) contact. Earth/ground/0V the other side of the item.
Indeed, the top terminals are most likely for power input to the board and an on/off switch.
The 10 Amp relay should be able to switch loads of up to 120 Watts at a nominal 12V, but since most car batteries run at about 14V or so with the engine running, that would equate to 140 Watts (Power = Current X Volts). Probably best to wire in a suitably rated fuse (i.e., no more than 10 Amps) to the item you are switching.
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Sept 19, 2017 22:07:04 GMT
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Thank you WL - I'm wondering which one is the NC and which one is NO though ?
There really is 0 info on this anywhere!
This is similar:
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Last Edit: Sept 19, 2017 22:14:20 GMT by DavidB
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Sept 20, 2017 8:42:48 GMT
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Just use a multimeter set to continuity or low resistance range to probe the terminals; stick one on the centre tap, the other to either outer terminal - if it buzzes or reads zero ohms, that's your NC contact, or rig up a simple battery and test lamp circuit. This diagram appears to show the relay pinout: tinyurl.com/yc4shlr2 |
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Sept 20, 2017 9:36:59 GMT
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Load power is N/O for a guess.
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Sept 20, 2017 15:56:21 GMT
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Thanks all - both relays where kaput anyway so no wonder they didn't work ... ordered five more - one has to work, will update when I've finished, these things are really handy.
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Sept 20, 2017 16:12:06 GMT
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not much good if they don't work, what do you want to achieve with this timer.
It acrually shows what the outputs are printed on the board. You just have to learn Chinese writing first.
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Last Edit: Sept 20, 2017 16:15:09 GMT by sunbuilder
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 858
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Sept 20, 2017 17:29:16 GMT
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It would be very simple to figure out with a multimeter. Three terminals, with no power to the relay two of them will show a circuit between them. One will be the 'COM' terminal, the other the 'NC' (normally closed) terminal, you just need to work out which is which. The remaining terminal will be the 'NO' (normally open) terminal. To work out which of the first two terminals is which, with power on, whichever of the terminals shows a circuit to the 'NO' terminal will be the 'COM' terminal. The remaining terminal will be the 'NC' terminal.
Simples!!
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2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71
2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet
1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon
1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump)
1992 Toyota HiLux Surf
1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty)
1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty)
2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager
2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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Sept 29, 2017 8:03:57 GMT
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I didn’t want to go connecting lives to unmarked terminals.  |
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Sept 29, 2017 11:33:44 GMT
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Common is the middle one.
Normally Open is almost certainly the bottom (Load Power / Load) one
Normally Closed is almost certainly the top unlabelled one.
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Last Edit: Sept 29, 2017 11:33:56 GMT by fad
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Sept 29, 2017 11:34:34 GMT
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(pic of the back and the PCB tracks will confirm for sure)
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 858
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Sept 29, 2017 13:12:41 GMT
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I didn’t want to go connecting lives to unmarked terminals. That's why we use test meters!!! |
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2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71
2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet
1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon
1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump)
1992 Toyota HiLux Surf
1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty)
1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty)
2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager
2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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I ordered 7 of these again. The same ones I used are garbage, two of the ones just didn't work out of their bags, so I just went with the two other options which only has one potentiometer and proper terminals. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-DC-Delay-Relay-Delay-Turn-on-Delay-Turn-off-Switch-Module-with-Timer/172821474475?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I had to figure out the wiring. Taking the earth side to the bottom terminal on the other side, and then using it to operate the locking mechanism between (the 'lamp' here). The potentiometer closes the circuit from ms. to one minute I think, with jumpers to extended timer to minutes and looping. Hope this helps anyone wanting to use one of these very handy and cheap things. Don't buy the other ones, they're rubbish. Thanks for the help everyone. |
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Last Edit: Oct 1, 2017 20:33:49 GMT by DavidB
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