Questions about modifying a 2105/7

I know about him.
But I was hoping for advice from more than one person.

It's just the gearbox that's from a diesel. I guess it's because they're tough and quite plentiful, and when married to the 5-cyl Volvo T5 engine makes it RWD. Sounds like a really cool project!

not really, its the axle ratio that seals the deal, and wheel size.

How similar are E30 and E36/5(compact) rear suspensions?

Russians make independent rear suspension ladas using whole E30 rear suspension.

The E36/5 uses a different rear suspension from the regular E36 which is said to be identical to the E30's.

Problem is that E30 are getting quite rare, while there's tons of E36/5. So that's why I am asking, also the E36/5 uses 5x120 and not 4x100, and is also newer, and there are more parts.

you could fit an e30 rear subframe, but it kinda defies the point of building a lada in the first place. a huge part of the character and handling characteristics of these little cars is that they're a 5 link live axle from the factory. as soon as you start swapping that out, and the huge amount of shell mods it requires, you may as well just start with a bigger/stronger/better car, like a e30 or volvo, that you wont have to spend years re-engineering for it to take the increased power and larger components.
it certainly wouldnt be any kind of sleeper anymore if you did a e30 rear end, as the track is a lot wider so would need wide arching.i know the russians love to try and outdo each other with the biggest motor they can put in them, but i really think anyone who does that is missing the point.

ladas are one of those cars that fall into the same sort of category as a mk2 escort or a chevette. with fairly basic mods theyll take something up to a 2L N/A motor and associated running gear, running in the 150-200hp bracket quite nicely without having to add a lot of weight beefing everything up. they're a very light shell to start with, pretty much the lightest RWD production car shell with a normal F-R layout and 'proper' suspension. you can drive em like a hooligan and they're balanced and fun. once you go over that you're into a battle of attrition, that becomes increasingly pointless the further you go. every bit of power you add means needing to add more weight to stop the rest of the car breaking around your drivetrain, and you very quickly reach a point where you'd have been better of building a conventional chassis or a tubeframe and just draping the lada shell over it. staying within the limits of what a stock shell can do (or a stock shell with basic strength/stiffening mods) gives a car thats just as much fun, but costs significantly less and doesnt take years to build. if i were to build another, id be looking at choosing components based on weight, to up the power to weight ratio that way. light wheels, an engine and box package thats as heavy on the ally and light on the cast iron as possible, and removing unnecessary stuff. 200bhp/ton is pretty easy even with a full interior.

If only I could find one...
It turns out the FWD injection models have problems with the starter in RWD application, and also there are no 5 speed 131 gearboxes.

And even then, if something breaks it will be PIA to get a replacement.

BMW gearboxes are everywhere, Volvo Whiteblock engines too, and there are more E36s than E46s,E60s,E90s(x25D and up) and Volvo S60/80 2.0T combined.
Basically enough parts for hundrends of whiteblock-powered Ladas.

Do Zetec/Duratec bolt straight on a Type 9/MT75?
Because if it requires an adaptor plate, might as well stick to volvo engine, bmw gearbox.
The 2.0T is 180hp and it could be upgraded to a 2.4T(200+hp), or if money is a problem when I go to get an engine, a 2.4 n/a (140hp) is an option too.
From what I have read, the bolt pattern and block dimensions are the same. So when the time comes, only the engine can be swapped, without the need of new gearbox/adapter plate.