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Apr 27, 2017 14:57:26 GMT
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Recently at home we have had this fitted, its brilliant and looks rarther spiffing.  however, upon staring to use it Mrs thewall stated we could do with a fire poker / prodder thingy. the bought ones tend to be either Very expensive for a bit of blacksmithed bar, or twee and overly traditional with spirals and flat bits and wotnot, however in North Yorks we did see some beautiful ones with a very details rams head on, not right for this house -it was built in 1956 and were going for modernish contempoary feel apparently. So as a Tea drinking Yorkshirebloke I decided id make one. Ive done very little in the way of smithying but allways wanted to have a go. So a swift hunt round the garage yeilded a bit of 10mm round bar that came free with the house. 10mins later, a bench vice, lump hammer and a very low on gas blowlamp we have this:  its hardly a work of art, more like a big dockoff pin..for now at least A trip to the workshop for the new mobile blacksmithing kit....(a lump of old rail i use as a Anvil, an equally as old ball pein hammer and a decent blowlamp...oh and for those on the Elf and Saftey train a set of very dirty welding gloves) more hot metal bashing to follow this evening / afternoon. |
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Take the Next slot right coming up on the left.
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Apr 27, 2017 18:49:49 GMT
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With the Expert Blowlamp holding skills of Mrs Thewall and my hammer waving this was produced.  which after a bit more hammer waving and blowlamping gave us this   quite pleased with it for a 1st go actually forging anything, usually just use heat to bend flatbar. i think i need to clean off the surfaces of the rail.... |
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Take the Next slot right coming up on the left.
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Apr 27, 2017 23:15:11 GMT
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Very good. I don't have a blow lamp so mostly I just beat the cold metal harder and hope it doesn't break.
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Sept 14, 2017 8:19:04 GMT
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Twas A few year ago on a fair springs morn, I happened upon a Tom Senior M1 on ebay bids we made and the machine was won.  ***this isnt my machine, and it isnt my workshop but it looks like it - well the machine does*** ahem, I decided I felt the need for a milling machine, knowing how wonderful and bloody usefull they are for us engineering / car person types, bit of resarch, talking to mates resulted in a barginous Tom Senior M1 horizontal mill of possibly 1974 vintage. This machine came with a few cutters and vertical milling head of unknown orgin but had been adapted ready for conversion to a vertical mill, it bolts to the round flange below then support bar, is driven by means of a spigot that fits the International 30 taper that lives in the drive thats in the middle of the flange.. a quick mock up revealed that with a milling cutter in id have a maxiumum z axis (up and down) of around 2" - not much, not nearly enough so a solution is required. Now Tom Senior sold a column spacer - goes between the machines main column and the base (the tray bit). this is a ikkle 3" tho. My thinking is thus. Column spacers are a thing. I loose apporox 6.5" of z axis. 160mm (6.3")flat bar is readily available in varying thickness' Once fabricated I can skim the top and bottom and front face, with the mill in horizontal mode, with the tooling I have. bit of Solidworks modeling  I end up loosing 0.25" in z axis. I think this would be somewhat a result. the wedge bit on the front is an extension to the slide, its bolt on so i can shim it up and possibly fill the joint with steel putty and sand / scrape smooth. its designed from 12thk flat, once welded up it should weight in at approx 20kg - might end up with a central stiffner. |
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Take the Next slot right coming up on the left.
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Sept 21, 2017 8:01:14 GMT
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Did a bit of work on The Tom last night.. This is the mill in question.  excuse the mess, the workshop is in a permanent state of flux....(curse word-tip / place of many many part done projects, many bits of peugeots. some of which arn't mine) this is the unknown vertical head. it May be from a tom senior Major (slightly larger mill)  insides.  put the drive spindle in after making a shaft key, and put it on the mill.  as you can see with the table at the bottom theres not much room in Z axis (up and down)for the size of machine.   Curseword - its a touch too large. I could re - drill the backing plate, but would have to use smaller bolts, M10 cap heads might work.... but on stripping the head down, to check it over it appears that someone has been here before me. brass bush swarf inside the head, looks like Stevie Wonder has machined the taper bush with his man appendage. I'm sure a bush has to be smooth.. oh and the drive spindle is too short. and its never going to hold oil as ther is no seals...anywhere. options are: Turn / get turned a new bush (internal taper) convert to taper roller bearings - id need to make a sleeve. re-drill the backing plate - cant really weld any lugs on it as its cast iron. look for a new angle head. |
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Take the Next slot right coming up on the left.
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,948
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Sept 24, 2017 11:26:12 GMT
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Sept 25, 2017 14:01:37 GMT
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Ah Ha! I did look at that on ebay but decided it wouldnt fit over the drive flangy thingy.  |
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Take the Next slot right coming up on the left.
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Sept 25, 2017 14:05:27 GMT
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However a bit of Turning (Just fitted in the lathe), drilling and lots of swarf making later it fits..  need some new bolts. next I need to make some T nuts to fit inside the T slot on the head so it rotates, I'll possibly get some shoulder bolts, or make some sleeves to go in the rotational adjustment holes as they are about 1/2" but a M10 bolt will fit in the T slot. This build is going to have to be a mixture of imperial and metric, all my measuing gear is metric, i'm metric, steel is metric all bolted with metric bolts to an imperial machine from the 70's oh and make a new driveshaft spigot whatsit. Will be hopefully ordering the flatbar this week. |
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Take the Next slot right coming up on the left.
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Sept 29, 2017 23:41:34 GMT
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Can you explain to Mr Hardofthinking here exactly how an extension in the horizontal will help the vertical movement please.
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it wont, but an extension in vertical will (z axis)the spacer block will go under the column, giving me an extra 6.25" of vertical height.
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Take the Next slot right coming up on the left.
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