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Apr 16, 2017 11:21:40 GMT
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Apr 16, 2017 19:46:09 GMT
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Best to ask on Landyzone forum, just like here but Landrovers, helpful bunch
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It will come in handy even if you never use it
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Apr 16, 2017 20:06:41 GMT
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Lock it off with the drill bit, I've done a few like that and never had a problem.
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,244
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Apr 16, 2017 20:28:59 GMT
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The only difference on the auto and manual is the flywheel locking pin. Otherwise the IP is locked out the same, you can use a drill bit. Make sure you have the modified timing belt crankshaft pulley fitted, or be ready to fit one if (somehow) your engine still has the original one on.
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Apr 16, 2017 23:02:38 GMT
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The only difference on the auto and manual is the flywheel locking pin. Otherwise the IP is locked out the same, you can use a drill bit. Make sure you have the modified timing belt crankshaft pulley fitted, or be ready to fit one if (somehow) your engine still has the original one on. Ahhh, I wondered why some kits came with that, better buy one to be on the safe side.
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Last Edit: Apr 16, 2017 23:02:51 GMT by mgbizzle
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Apr 17, 2017 20:21:57 GMT
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I've only ever done them using the locking pin in the pump and timing marks on the crank and cam. Remember that the pulley on the pump has a vernier adjustment, so you can let the pulley float a little to get the belt on properly and everything lined up.
There are 3 versions of the cam belt kit, the original which uses the tensioner for belt alignment, the first mod which uses the crank pulley as the guide with side plates spot welded on, and the final version which also uses the crank pulley as a guide, but is cast in one piece.
You want the final version, as the second one, whilst a step forward was notable for the spot welds failing and either allowing the belt to buff away against the front cover, or pulling the spot welded plate in with obvious consequences.
The timing pin/puller kit is only about £20, and makes the job easier, especially getting the pulleys off. It can be quite a battle to get the timing belt pulley off the crank also.
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,311
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Apr 30, 2017 20:16:35 GMT
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Undoing the crank nut was our issue, in the end some heat and a bar braced against the chassi rail and bounce it on the starter with the fuel cutoff disconnected. we used a cheap bugen kit off ebay to lock off the pump and the flywheel and a pice of cardboard to cover the rad rarther than dropping the coolent. Dan
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For future reference the normal cheap £5 locking pins were fine, there is an inspection hatch to the flywheel on the auto and the flywheel locking bolt goes into the larger hole that holds the cover on.
The tricky part is doing the crank bolt back up, I have a impact gun but I'm not happy it has done the bolt up enough so I have purchased the proper pulley locking tool so I can do the bolt up with a bar.
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Last Edit: May 2, 2017 11:36:58 GMT by mgbizzle
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