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Curious what the position is on this - if work has been done to fix an issue which is still not resolved, are you within your rights to refuse to pay for that work?
Basically, non starting Arosa went in, sensor was changed but still didn't fix the non starting issue. Garage is starting to make teeth dyer noises about having to dig further/not sure what is wrong, so I've said to stop and I'll recover it back home.
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I can say that I would have only charge you for the sensor and not the labour as the problem wasn't fixed
I'm a firm believer that customers bring there cars to me as I'm apparently a professional so in that respect I only charge for work I've done to fix a vehicle
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Last Edit: Jan 6, 2017 21:04:05 GMT by bigal1978
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
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I can say that I would have only charge you for the sensor and not the labour as the problem wasn't fixed I'm a firm believer that customers bring there cars to me as I'm apparently a professional so in that respect I only charge for work I've done to fix a vehicle How about if the car came in with a few faults that were caused by one thing? I'll give you two examples of that. I once owned an Escort Cabrio with a very badly shot inner CV joint. I whacked in another driveshaft and while the shaking was massively reduced it was still there. 4 new tyres later and it was near enough gone. While the tyres were a problem it's fair to say the main fault was the driveshaft for shaking the car to bits! A friend of mine had a similar issue with a Pug 306 XSi. He had a terrible vibration delevop. He changed the wheel bearing and the problem was reduced but didn't go away. He then changed the tyre. The problem went away but came back. The fault was a bent hub. Now if someone could solve the BMW M3 issue I'd be grateful! Basically, the light does not always turn on the driver's side. Once it comes on however it will stay on as intended. It's either the ignitor or ballast. My gut is saying the ignitor but I really don't want to remove the headlight and tear it down just to find out it was the ballast after all...
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MiataMark
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,961
Club RR Member Number: 29
Member is Online
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Now if someone could solve the BMW M3 issue I'd be grateful! Basically, the light does not always turn on the driver's side. Once it comes on however it will stay on as intended. It's either the ignitor or ballast. My gut is saying the ignitor but I really don't want to remove the headlight and tear it down just to find out it was the ballast after all... Can you swap the ballast side to side to rule it out?
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1990 Mazda MX-52012 BMW 118i (170bhp) - white appliance 2011 Land Rover Freelander 2 TD4 2003 Land Rover Discovery II TD52007 Alfa Romeo 159 Sportwagon JTDm
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
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You can but on the driver's side it's a headlight out job (it's bolted to the bottom of the headlight). Passenger side can be done with the headlight in situ.
What I may do is buy another ballast, thus having spares to cover me for any part of the light system going, and a means to rule out things.
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Last Edit: Jan 6, 2017 23:53:48 GMT by ChasR
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depends if they said that they knew what the fault was and you agreed with them.
otherwise a mechanic can only do as good as you, albeit with more experience and tools.
if a mechanic is unsure then they should talk you through some sort of process of elimination and the potential work and costs involved, but then youre going to have to be interested and knowledgable about whatever it is theyy are talking about and you know some people just drop of the keys and say do your best, get on with it etc...
if i have to use a mechanic its do ask them to do something specific. if there is a problem that i don't have a clue about(and in some cases neither do they)its best to thoroughly talk it through with them and have a proper think about the worse case scenario or whether it is something you might stumble across yourself.
ultimately any purchases and work carried out should be authorised by the customer otherwise youre under no obligation to fill your end of the contract.
I'm happy to go to my local mechanic, pay them for their time for looking at something and taking the time to talk about it and then doing it myself if I'm capable and have the time.
when you have a mystery problem though, you have to put a limit on how much time you want them to investigate for you.
years ago, a garage told me i need to spend £450 odd quid to replace 4 sensors, i paid them £25 for the diagnostics, went home, had a look around my inlet manifold hose and patched a small slit with a piece of duck tape that cost me nothing and took all of 10 minutes.
so replacing things in sequence to rule them out seems like a bit of a lazy route to me because a sensor fault on a diagnostics doesnt mean that the sensor is faulty even. personally ive learned to test sensors and that garage i took my car to that time wouldve done better to test the sensors before creating a bill by wasteful practice.
just have your eyes open.
have you not posted on on here about it?
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MiataMark
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,961
Club RR Member Number: 29
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Some time ago I had a problem with a Fiat Stilo, it would stall when coming back to idle and bring up an engine fault light. Took it to a specialist who read codes and diagnosed a sensor, replaced sensor. A few weeks later started happening again so I did some research which pointed to a gummed up throttle body. Printed all the info off and took it back, garage cleaned it all up and it cured the fault. They even said thanks for the info, still ended up paying for the sensor and the clean up though!
Always worth doping a bit of research.
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1990 Mazda MX-52012 BMW 118i (170bhp) - white appliance 2011 Land Rover Freelander 2 TD4 2003 Land Rover Discovery II TD52007 Alfa Romeo 159 Sportwagon JTDm
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In the modern age of sensors and electronics it's not uncommon for garages to have a look at the codes thrown up and either 'best guess' or Google it to see if it's a common fault with a known solution.
There's often a lot of reliance on the computer telling you what's wrong, with no 'real' diagnostic work carried out to figure out why a particular fault is being flagged up, hence a lot of 'replace parts until it goes away' work.
I won't argue that modern engines -and vehicles in general- aren't complex electronic systems, but the basics remain the same as always, and a sound basic knowledge of the system combined with the use of computers -and google- as fault finding tools to assist a diagnosis is as foolproof a method as one could hope for.
There's more could be said about traditional mechanicing skills/knowledge dieing out, and that most young lads are now trained as 'fitters' who change broken bit for new and not much else. I count myself lucky to have served my time in a proper 'Old School' garage, whilst my initial training was as an agricultural engineer, so I've learned a great deal more than I might have otherwise done had I ended up going through a main dealers technician training programme.
Slightly related example, last week at work (I'm a plant mechanic for an agrictural contractor/compost/wood fuels company) I was presented with a JCB Telehandler which -according to the farm fitter- needed a head gasket as it kept boiling up, and had an air leak in the fuel system as it kept cutting out.
My spidey sense told me the engine was in fact fine -Perkins Phasers are bloody hardy things- and some proper investigation found a hydraulic leak above the fan cowling, which combined with barley dust had completely choked the radiator and the fan cowl with a solid oily gunk. Replace the leaky pipe, clean out the radiator and fan, and back to running like a sweetie. The cutting out issue? Blowing out the fuel lines, cleaning the sedimentar bowl and giving it a fresh fuel filter cured that one.
I could cite lots of other examples, but that's the most recent. I would also add I'm always learning, and don't mind admitting if I don't know, or if I've made a cock up.
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Ok, so the full story:
I loath taking cars to garages but sometimes it's just too bloody cold/wet/dark and especially if it's a daily you just need it running again.
The Arosa wouldn't start..it would just crank. Plugged in my code reader and found it was reporting there was an issue with the engine speed sensor. It turned out to be a pig to get to, so towed it to my local Seat Main Dealer (I've exhausted all other garages near my in the past) explaing the issue. As expected, they said I'd have to pay a min of the diognostic fee...which I was expecting. They then called me and said it looked like the engine speed sensor (as I had said). So they replaced it, and it still won't start.
This is the point they've started making noises that they think it's some deeper electrical issue and it could get expensive. I've said don't spend anymore time of it and I'll take it back.
So they diagnosed/replaced something that didn't fix it.
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Last Edit: Jan 7, 2017 9:03:25 GMT by sarkie83
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A great example of following the computer. Anyone with a bit of nouse would be doing a continuity test of the wiring betwixt ECU and sensor, and a visual inspection of the sensor plug and the loom heading back to the ECU.
It's not complicated, just time consuming, which the dealers would rather not be paying their techs the time for.
I think a friendly chat with the service manager is needed. You're obviously happy to pay the 'diagnostic charge' even though it's told you nothing new, whilst they're probably within their right to ask you to pay for the sensor, or a small surcharge on it if they remove it and replace your old one.
There is a bit of difference between you instructing them 'please diagnose and fix the non starting fault' and telling them 'replace the crankshaft sensor'.
If the manager has any nouse and realises you're smart enough to know what you're talking about then it shouldn't be too hard to resolve amicably. Unfortunately there's far to many people who don't have a clue and will quite happily let the garage do as they wish, and pay for it on their credit card without question so long as their car starts and goes when they want it too.
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Ok, so the full story: I loath taking cars to garages but sometimes it's just too bloody cold/wet/dark and especially if it's a daily you just need it running again. The Arosa wouldn't start..it would just crank. Plugged in my code reader and found it was reporting there was an issue with the engine speed sensor. It turned out to be a pig to get to, so towed it to my local Seat Main Dealer (I've exhausted all other garages near my in the past) explaing the issue. As expected, they said I'd have to pay a min of the diognostic fee...which I was expecting. They then called me and said it looked like the engine speed sensor (as I had said). So they replaced it, and it still won't start. This is the point they've started making noises that they think it's some deeper electrical issue and it could get expensive. I've said don't spend anymore time of it and I'll take it back. So they diagnosed/replaced something that didn't fix it. Hi, It's not really fair to blame them for arriving at the same place as you would have done if the sensor had been easy to change, you're moaning because you've paid them to do something you couldn't be bothered to do. Colin
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Doyal
South West
Posts: 168
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You've taken it to the garage for repair. - they either repair it, or charge you for the labour/parts they have currently put into it (if you do not wish to continue).
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Last Edit: Jan 7, 2017 12:29:31 GMT by Doyal
BMW E28 M535i dog-leg
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What engine, What codes and using what reader? If it isnt the crank position sensor it will be the cam sensor and vice versa most likely.
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What engine, What codes and using what reader? If it isnt the crank position sensor it will be the cam sensor and vice versa most likely. Sausage your username/avatar looks a familiar from the club lupo forum? The original thread is on there... 1.4tdi and code was P0321 (using vids-lite). I mistakenly replaced the camshaft position sensor first...thinking they were one and the same. So I already have done that one and garage has now done the engine speed sensor. When I get it back I'll rescan and see what it's saying...
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according to autodata po321 its the crankshaft position sensor/engine speed sensor range/performance problem
probable cause air gap too large/ small metal particulate contamination insecure sensor rotor wiring sensor its self
hope that helps
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I can say that I would have only charge you for the sensor and not the labour as the problem wasn't fixed I'm a firm believer that customers bring there cars to me as I'm apparently a professional so in that respect I only charge for work I've done to fix a vehicle How about if the car came in with a few faults that were caused by one thing? I'll give you two examples of that. I once owned an Escort Cabrio with a very badly shot inner CV joint. I whacked in another driveshaft and while the shaking was massively reduced it was still there. 4 new tyres later and it was near enough gone. While the tyres were a problem it's fair to say the main fault was the driveshaft for shaking the car to bits! A friend of mine had a similar issue with a Pug 306 XSi. He had a terrible vibration delevop. He changed the wheel bearing and the problem was reduced but didn't go away. He then changed the tyre. The problem went away but came back. The fault was a bent hub. Now if someone could solve the BMW M3 issue I'd be grateful! Basically, the light does not always turn on the driver's side. Once it comes on however it will stay on as intended. It's either the ignitor or ballast. My gut is saying the ignitor but I really don't want to remove the headlight and tear it down just to find out it was the ballast after all... Surely it wouldn't matter how many faults ? If the was dropped of with a vibration It's my job to work out why fix it and charge Not guess I wouldn't pay a plumber or electrician to come to my house Take a wild gues at the fault and try to fix it and not The same as I wouldn't go to Tesco and hope there was something in the box I just paid for Today I was called out to look a Vauxhall zafira None starting After spending 30 mins checking plugging in ect I believe it's the cim "think " it's the cim I didn't charge them as the car wasn't running when I left and at the time on there drive in the curse word rain I couldn't be 100% sure what it was
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What engine, What codes and using what reader? If it isnt the crank position sensor it will be the cam sensor and vice versa most likely. Sausage your username/avatar looks a familiar from the club lupo forum? The original thread is on there... 1.4tdi and code was P0321 (using vids-lite). I mistakenly replaced the camshaft position sensor first...thinking they were one and the same. So I already have done that one and garage has now done the engine speed sensor. When I get it back I'll rescan and see what it's saying... youre doing what the garage has done, if you have the sensors off then test them with an ohmeter. if the sensors are fine then you need to work out why they are showing up as faults or why they might be giving faulty readings..? Save
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,993
Club RR Member Number: 35
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I'm confused by your gripe on this one. It's not as if the garage changed a random part, if after scanning the codes they asked you if you wanted the sensor changing, I assume you would have told them to go a head.
Yes it sucks that you are having to pay for work and parts that hasn't solved the problem, only ruled out a potential issue. At the end of the day, the garage has invested time, money and parts at your request and they are a business so need for them to be paid for.
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cant see you will get it for free but it would boil my urine
youve paid for an expert diagnosis not guess work
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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Given the exact circumstance that you describe, I would definitely pay in full. You asked them to change the sensor and they did so.
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