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Jul 30, 2016 14:07:08 GMT
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I needed to fix a slow puncture on my w124 so I got my breaker bar and 17mm socket out and tried to loosen the studs. Two came loose but the others were so seized that I had to try heating them with oxy acetelyne. I got four out eventually but one snapped above the taper. The back wheel on the same side was worse, three snapped one bent and one came out. Any wonder tools out there that I don't know about to get these snapped studs out?
Google tells me that this is a common problem on my type of alloy as the studs are extra long and trend to twist and snap if they've been over tightened.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,167
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Jul 30, 2016 15:31:19 GMT
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Not sure about Merc's, but often the studs are hammered in from behind. And swift whack from the wheel side knocks them out.
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Jul 30, 2016 16:33:05 GMT
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Not sure about Merc's, but often the studs are hammered in from behind. And swift whack from the wheel side knocks them out. Sadly they are basically wheel bolts as opposed to what you and i would refer to as studs, as in fitted through the hub. My only advice will be to try and drill them out to a point and find someone willing to lend you some easy outs, after some heating of the hub and soaking the threaded portion in oil, if at all possible. |
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'88 Cadillac Brougham hearse (white)
'91 Carlton GSi 24v
'72 Dodge dual cab pick up
'99 Mercedes S55 AMG
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Jul 30, 2016 17:19:03 GMT
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Had the same problem on a w210, tried to drill it but nothing, tried a chisel and sledge hammer to break the collar of the bolt but still nothing, so ended up using a angle grinder and cutting the wheel off, then once having access to the collar using a monkey wrench to take the bolt out lucky I had a alloy wheel as my spare so that was ok but I would dreaded ruining a alloy, watchin this thread carefully tho for future
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sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
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Jul 30, 2016 17:46:08 GMT
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Is the wheel off and left a stub of the thread sticking out of the hub? If so try and attach something - bolt grip, mole grip, nut welded on - rather than drilling it out. I tend to drill only when nothing else works.
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j4m35
Part of things
Posts: 70
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With no tension it shouldn't be that hard to get that bit of bolt out. If you can't get mole grips or a stud remover on it because it's snapped flush, you could first try tapping it around with a centre punch and hammer, then try slotting the end of the stud with a dremel or similar and trying to unscrew it with a screwdriver. After that you have EZ-outs or welding a nut on.
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Jul 31, 2016 10:05:40 GMT
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Done a few of these , carbide burr to get rid of the shoulder of the bolt and then put a slit in the head of the bolt and use an impact driver with a big flat blade bit to start shocking it back and forth with some heat before welding a big nut onto It to wind it out . Usually ham fisted fitting with a gun cross threads these . Don't see many now but I had a tap to run down the threads to make sure they all went in smoothly it they were a bit stiff coming out .
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Jul 31, 2016 20:25:59 GMT
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Unfortunately the wheels are still attached, the lug bolts are down a hole in the alloy wheel, not so easy to get at. I'm hoping my local mechanic has a better set of stud extractors than me as my attempt yesterday with a silver line set failed miserably.
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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That's how I get them off with the wheel still on , carbide burr to get the shoulder off the bolt so the wheel cones off . I have used a plasma cutter to do the same job but it does burn the paint off the wheels a bit
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Borrowed a snap on set of stud extractors today and managed to get one more stud out. Just two to go. These two are well stuck though. Think I'll try to drill them until the taper comes off the lug bolt then get the wheel off and see if I can get the rest out. Hope I can manage it as the old car isn't really worth a new set of wheels.
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786 
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Are we talking about bolts, studs, nuts, lugs (whatever the hell they are?!) or what?
Afaik mercs are usually loose bolts
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We are talking about these:  You can see that they are basically designed as shear bolts... And the head is flush with the top of the wheel; means they sit in a reaaaly deeep hole. Tremendously stupid design, if you ask me. My take would be to try and weld on a nut and try a rattle gun. |
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 these are notorious for snapping along the stem. especially the cheaper non MB ones the MB ones normally have a bit of stretch. trying to tighten them slightly before undoing them has helped me in the past get them out, ive been lucky enough not to have one snap on me. the cause is they tend to get fired in by air gun before the threads being cleaned off and any grease added. moisture gets between the hub and the wheel causing the already tight Bolts to seize in situ. slow job but gradually drill out each broken bolt untill you can free the coller off to remove the wheel. ive recently had trouble with my s203 wheel bolts (Bent an Old Wheel Brace with a bar on it and the nuts never budged), thankfully they are a better design although they need regular slackening off as they seem to get real tight again if they get left..., |
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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There is a tyre shop next door to my garage so I get plenty of wheel bolt / locking nut issues to fix and the Merc one is pretty much the worst to deal with
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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I've never seen any as stupid as that before!
I guess I've been lucky with my mercs so far and just had standard books and used a deep socket
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Had the same problem on a w210, tried to drill it but nothing, tried a chisel and sledge hammer to break the collar of the bolt but still nothing, so ended up using a angle grinder and cutting the wheel off, then once having access to the collar using a monkey wrench to take the bolt out lucky I had a alloy wheel as my spare so that was ok but I would dreaded ruining a alloy, watchin this thread carefully tho for future Did EXACTLY the same with my ml, was caused entirely by garage over tightening a locking wheel nut with a gun. Once the alloy came off I had visions of new hubs etc but a quick pull of the Stilson and it was finger tight on and off, it hasn't even damaged the thread!!!! Binned the rest of the lockers and all good to go. Worst thing was I spent a fortune on drills etc, spent hours and hours of time to do it when a replacement wheel was £50 with a good tyre !!!! Sometimes it's a case of be brutal and bite the bullet . |
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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If i had a pound for every one of those fookers that's snapped i'd have about £40 (ish) LOL, mostly down to tyre shops using nut guns to tighten the wheels, you usually know what your in for when the locking nut is so tight you need a breaker bar and a scaffold tube to get it of, or snap it as in your case, only thing to do is drill the sholder off, i run the drill through a metal tube to protect the alloy (hold the tube with mole grips and put the drill through the hole and onto the bolt head, i use a shot length old metal cable conduit, it can knacker the middle of the drill bit if it catches on the tube as it wobbles but hey, it's the end that counts  |
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R.I.P photobucket
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Aug 11, 2016 19:15:05 GMT
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Will be welding sockets on to the remaining two snapped bolts this weekend if that doesn't work I think I'll be weighing the car in as it's not worth the price of a new wheel and it's almost out of mot. Pity though as the big boat is still a smooth way to travel.
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