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Jul 31, 2016 19:40:55 GMT
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I wouldn't, however, recommend simply bolting one on using a straight bolt in the tapered hole, this is just bad engineering and asking for rapid wear of the taper. Ream out (or, at a pinch, use a new drill bit) the hole to the correct size. Rod ends are even available with a bolt attached. An advantage of the rod end is that you are able to adjust its mounting height so any bump steer can be reduced or eliminated. To remove bump steer is exactly why I fitted them, but reaming (or drilling) out the taper would mean not finding a rod end to fit, rod ends with a through bolt hole the size of a reamed out steering arm taper would have a similar sized shank. I had to use a rod end with a shank that fits my steering rack, the taper was infilled to suit. But because there's a clamping force of 50 lbs ft on the rod end mounting surface against the steering arm, I doubt it'll move much in the taper anyway! I had no trouble finding a 1/2" rod end with a 1/2" hole. Drilled out the taper to 1/2" and job done :-) They come in all shapes and sizes.
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Jul 31, 2016 21:14:01 GMT
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I think the above is slightly biased . An expose rod end as you put it will wear out far quicker than a normal item due to it being exposed and in most cases will transfer more Noise, Vibration and Harshness. OK, you can put boot ends on but I'd still like to see a rose joint do 100,000 miles and pass an MOT . Remember new cars need to last the warranty period ; it makes zero business sense to have a car that cannot last them, longevity or not. After all, it's why people buy new cars and lose a fortune on them for less hassle. If there is proof of a "rose joint" lasting 100k however I'll stand to be corrected. Next you'll be saying a 4 paddle clutch will last as long as a generic stock clutch, and that they are not used due to being cheaper to make, not because they are near enough unusable in a daily application. I am not saying that they are for everyone. Standard road cars should stick to standard track rod ball joints, no point in going to the expense and relatively short lifespan of rod ends. I doubt that many ball joints last 100,000 miles as many cars fail the MOT in the UK due to excessive play in these joints. A 4 paddle clutch will last a lot longer than a generic stock clutch, if fitted to a modified engine :-) Horses for courses. With regard to usability, that is down to what you want out of a clutch. My Elan, back in the 80s, with 168bhp at the wheels, had a 4 paddle clutch. I had to increase the slave cylinder diameter and lengthen the master cylinder rod in order to make it usable. Very few people could drive it and my wife could hardly push the clutch pedal down, but I was happy with it and was using it as my daily driver (my only car).
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Last Edit: Jul 31, 2016 21:15:22 GMT by nalesutol
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